King Motors 2.0

[SiRaDuDe]

Originally Posted by PhattKatt

That's a nice looking buggy. How much does it weigh?

Sorry dont have a scale so I went to the KM web:

N.W.: 11.3 kg = 24.9 lbs
G.W.: 16.3 kg = 35.9 lbs

[SiRaDuDe]

Question:

Is the front Upper plate supposed to be flat?

I hit a Cement pole at some speed... and i bent the front upper plate (aluminum) and did a little damage to the bulk head (plastic and I have replacement)

I think I'm gona hammer the Upper plate down... and order a HD one because I KNOW I will be hitting more things!

I just glad I had the Worx front bumper that took most of the impact...

Anyone know at what angle the bottom frame is bent up (degrees) so I can verify if by any chance that bent some? I dounbt it cuz its pretty thick alloy.

Also.. anyone know of a good source for an HD front Upper Plate... I know where to get the HPI one.. It's just that I know I saw some other aftermarket one and I cant remember where....

Edit: Never mind... I found it.. here : http://www.outlaw-rc.com/ but I dont know were to buy it from other than Australia, here: http://powerslideracing.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1535?... I saw they have an ebay listing but they want like ... $45 + like $30 shipping.... Maybe HPI HD one will have to do.... or do you guys think it's worth it?

[SiRaDuDe]

Everything is back in place.... bulkhead is a little tweaked...

I didnt think I hit that hard.... guess i was wrong...

I just banged the upper plat back into shape

[Bigger the Better]

I've been there.

The angle I think has been said to be

18* or 1 5/16 + or - 1/16.

I had good luck bending it back with the help of a trailer hitch on a car with the ball & shaft removed leaving only the square trailer hitch. The front of the frame fits in the hole & you can bend to your hearts content. You still have to know how far to bend it & the other responces sugested 1 & 5/16 inches.

[SiRaDuDe]

Thanks a lot!

[SiRaDuDe]

Anyone know the diference between:

Integy type II front brace

Integy Front Brace

The type II looks beefier to me.


I'll probably go for the DDM's for quality?

[SiRaDuDe]

I got a whole Pro set of sealed bearings from FastEddy and I just found out that the Wiper Arms from KM do not use the same size bearing that the HPI does (KM is much larger outer diameter).... and I have a lot of play (up and down) ... so much that a set of FastEddy's Steering shims (6 per set) are not enough to fix not even one side..!!!

So I will be ordering a complete HPI Wiper arm kit and a HPI servo saver kit... to bring it to original specs..

Hopefully the problem wont lie in the distance between the top plate and the bottom chasis... I'm hoping for out of spec wiper arms for this issue... if worst come to worse I will just find 5x10mm washers and pile them on.....

[SiRaDuDe]

Feels like I'm talking to myself, but what the heck ... I'll keep going..

Today I went on a heavy Bashing Session, and I have to say the Baja did very well, took a beating and kept on ticking...

Main jump was a ramp about 2 feet high about 3 feet long curving up at a steep angle and I hit that thing like 20 times sending the Baja usually like 10' out and about 6' high repeatedly with some of the time the steering arm popping out because of a bad landing but that should be expected, I did lots of end over end, cartwheels and flat out upsidedown landings but most of the time this thing landed well and maintained a level flight. This track was very small in size so I just concentrated on the large jump over and over and over It was mostly clay and it was very dry so that clay dust got EVERYWHERE! I landed once on my rear spoiler hard and was amazed the thing did not break off, its kinda bendy bendy now but not broken by the end of the session I had mastered that jump and most jumps went smoothly.

All went well until....

I had a very bad landing and landed on the top crest of another ramp upside down, and kinda took something out of whack and the flywheel is now rubbing/sticking against the Ignition Coil mount just enough to not let me crank the engine.... I assume I will just have to open the engine cover and re-adjust the ignition coil back in place

Like I said this Baja will not be babied and if something is weak on it I will find out fast... its being driven hard and will only get worse when I go to the dirt bike track next week

My initial crash with a pole on one of my previous past was my error and I do not blame any damages on KM's quality just on my driving abilities.

By the way I will now be doing a complete disasemble... I had done a partial and found out like most of you had said that the Shock were only half full, that little adjustment with 40w in front and 15w in rear made a nice difference. I will probably go with 15k oil in the diff, since most of my driving should be on dirt and I'm having some problem keeping a straight line on hard acceleration.

So far I have not broken a thing and thats goes a long way with me, tomorrows agenda will be disassembly, cleaning all that clay dust and inspection of ignition coil.

I will get some pics soon and maybe some video next week.

[Rossco]

Your not being ignored bud........most of us would have been out bashing our rides too.

I've given my baja a very very hard time this past week.........
Been through 30 litres of fuel in 7 days.....

Had to rering twice.....
Broke 1 diff out drive.....
Stripped 2 teeth off the steering servo's third gear.....(turned the gear 180 to fix)
Popped the O rings in both rear shocks......twice.....

All fixed now and it is still begging for more !!!

[Bigger the Better]

Complete tear down is a fun project. Sounds like you have ironed out most of what it needs to stay going with your style of driving.

I believe you posted your question on the Integy in another thread. At least I remember answering the exact same question.

[fastflee]

cool looking buggy!!!!!!!!!!!

[SiRaDuDe]

Another update....

KM beadlock screws dont seem to work well in Original HPI Wheels...

They are kinda too thin in diameter and dont grab at all when using updated beadlocks from SilverBack.... Soooo... Now I need to order new Screws from Silverback...

Dang... these new Silverback beadlocks look nice and though...

Note: Using the screws in the KM wheels seem to grab well...even with the silveback beadlocks.... go figure


I had a chance to compare more closely the KM wheels against the HPI Wheels... since I stripped a rear KM Wheel because I had left a bolt loose (my Fault)
The inner HEX shaped hole (where the hub goes in) in the HPI Wheel is made of metal... not a metal ring going around it, the actual hex hole is metal... in the KM it's made of plastic... and there is no metal anywhere... I checked with magnet....

So for the heavy bashers out there, upgrading your Rear Wheels might be an interest....

[SiRaDuDe]

Originally Posted by Rossco

The infamous missing bearing is from the layshaft where it enters the gearbox,,when you open the box you will find on one side there will be a bearing,,,,,,,,on the other side there will only be a crappy little rubber seal where the bearing should be.

Definately put one in there for durability's sake!

If the rear brace breaks through it's weak point (the two short bits where the brake disc is) the spur would strip quicker than a $2 hooker,,,,,or munch the guts out of the box.

One extra bearing is cheap insurance on the gears.

Another Update....

I just opened the Gear Box and found that KM now has this bearing in place from factory!

So in other words.... There is NO longer a missing Bearing in the KM Bajas from 2.0 up!!!!

[tonystott]

Rossco, sorry, but I disagree with your logic here! So you are saying that in case the rear brace breaks, you add another bearing to the layshaft?

This doesn't make sense from an engineering standpoint, a bit like adding another seatbelt because the brakes might fail!

If there is a weakness in the rear brace, reinforcing it makes heaps more sense, compared to having the rear of the chassis loose after the rear brace fails and leaving it supported by the layshaft (weird!).

I stand by my comments elsewhere that the middle bearing is not necessary. Strengthening the rear brace (or replacing it with a stronger part) makes heaps more sense.

Originally Posted by Rossco

The infamous missing bearing is from the layshaft where it enters the gearbox,,when you open the box you will find on one side there will be a bearing,,,,,,,,on the other side there will only be a crappy little rubber seal where the bearing should be.

Definately put one in there for durability's sake!

If the rear brace breaks through it's weak point (the two short bits where the brake disc is) the spur would strip quicker than a $2 hooker,,,,,or munch the guts out of the box.

One extra bearing is cheap insurance on the gears.

[pablo]

just got some kingmotor diff,planet gears to replace my hpi ones that my buggy chewed up , stripped it down only to find the k,m gears have mutch smaller holes in the back of them is there any other k,m parts that aint compatable or the other way round .