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Old 07-23-2010, 03:07 PM   #196
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finished putting the stock engine mounts back on the G26 last night and sat it in the baja, everything ligned up perfectly. there has to be something different from the G27 to G26, dont know yet but im going to find out!
In order to fit the G270 into 4wd FG, you need to modify the crankcase by grinding out the extra mount that comes with G270 crankcase. Check the attached photos and you will understand.
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File Type: jpg crankcase_mod2.jpg (49.8 KB, 16 views)
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Old 07-23-2010, 10:25 PM   #197
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oh that awesome, thanks heaps for the pics and leting me know, i was racking my brains out!

ill have a look at that today!
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Old 07-24-2010, 04:19 AM   #198
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In order to fit the G270 into 4wd FG, you need to modify the crankcase by grinding out the extra mount that comes with G270 crankcase. Check the attached photos and you will understand.
I had to do this a bit ago with the baja 1.000 truck its not a big deal at all...
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Old 07-24-2010, 10:55 PM   #199
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nope not a big deal just make sure you do it slowly and dont go thru the crank but remember if its a new clutch casing you need to dremel a portion away too
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Old 07-26-2010, 01:11 AM   #200
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thanks everyone. x2crt do you mind if I post those pics up on OSLF and AUSRC? I think it will help a few people out as it did myself.

i put the G26 back in the baja but at least I know what to do now. Ive also softened the suspension heaps by using hydraluc oil on shockers and adjusted the linkages up a fair bit to get more steering out of it (thanks rossco). cant wait to try it out at the show grounds.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:07 AM   #201
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thanks everyone. x2crt do you mind if I post those pics up on OSLF and AUSRC? I think it will help a few people out as it did myself.

i put the G26 back in the baja but at least I know what to do now. Ive also softened the suspension heaps by using hydraluc oil on shockers and adjusted the linkages up a fair bit to get more steering out of it (thanks rossco). cant wait to try it out at the show grounds.
You are welcome. Please feel free to do so and share with others.

I was running the G27 on my FG 4x4 truck for a few tanks but did not notice any power difference compare to G26 yet. After I rebuilt the G26 with 36mm bore kit, I swapped it back and the torque increase is noticeable.
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Old 07-27-2010, 02:27 AM   #202
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thanks mate, I run a big bore kit as well and yes torgue is noticeable.

i like the G270 as its very reliable and doesnt leak around gasket.
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Old 07-30-2010, 02:21 AM   #203
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well didnt have work yeasterday so ran two tanks at the show grounds, had a ball. hit a tree pretty hard but broke nothing. feels good when you go home with everything in one peice! we all know it doesnt happen all the time.
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Old 07-30-2010, 02:30 AM   #204
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not sure if ive posted this vid on here before, taken and loaded by a mate Brad to does all our camera work. this is the flat track and showgrounds ive been going on about. very small and tight, the trees make it real interesting and fun.

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Old 08-01-2010, 01:02 AM   #205
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I need someone's help BAD!

ran four tanks yeasterday, did my steering servo which is easy enough to fix but now there's a real tight spot with the belt system. I removed the engine, radio tray and fuel tank last night, took out front and rear diffs, sprayed everything with RP7 and put it back on, still a tight spot. any idea how I can trouble shoot this?
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Old 08-01-2010, 10:46 AM   #206
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Has your engine moved?
Need to check the teeth, in case you had a trapped stone or something - may have stuffed up some of the teeth.
Just a thought.
Al.
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:32 AM   #207
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Now that its all back together the easiest way will be to pull one thing off at a time and test it, ie if its tight with a complete car pull the spur gear off, if still tight pull off the next gear and so on. As soon as you pull something off and its not tight thats where the problem is
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Old 08-02-2010, 02:31 AM   #208
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found the problem yesterday, thanks all for responses.

there is a small pulley in plastic housing that sits under the engine infront of rear diff, one of the bearings was completley seized, i cleaned it and sprayed it and got it turning again, put the whole system back together and working like new again.

im thinking i may be better off replacing these bearings with new ones though, thier on the noisy side, what do we think?
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Old 08-02-2010, 09:32 AM   #209
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noisey bearing = knackered
if when you spin a bearing you can keep clunks, or grittiness, then it's knackered
if there is play in a bearing, it's knackered.

so yeah, get em replaced. something sealed would be good, but if you have the option, go for a medium to high temerature bearing, because it will be under the engine the heat could liquify the grease, and that'll prematurely kill it. Just don't buy the bull about ABEC ratings, it doesn't apply to the type of bearing you will need for the pulley
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:00 AM   #210
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cool thanks, i ordered new tensioner and diff housing bearings today from CFR, werent cheap but their definetly noisy and sound a little gritty.

might look into those rubber sealed bearings next time I replace em.

should have everything tommorow so hoping to put it back together tommorow and see if it runs on the bench, this is the first time ive had the belt system apart so want to make sure ive done it right. looks ok, can spin it by hand easily, just dont want that belt jumping off while its running! that would do some damage!
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