bajarob
Active Member
ive only got 3 petrol rc cars at the mo trebor but im guna do a full orange alloy baja ova xmas 4 sumfin 2 do so look out 4 ur new pics:w00t:
sperera's baja experience begins
- Thread starter sperera
- Start date
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pipeous
Well-Known Member
I am putting a deposit on a 4wd baja in the next day or so. local is selling a brand new one with front brakes. I can't resist any longer.
sperera
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #304
great stuff pipe. you will love it, ive done over 40 tanks in it now and the only thing to let me down so far is the engine but after 40 tanks thats to be expencted, has been a great run and very reliable car with minimal upgrades.
what a crap weekend for rc for me LOL.
rained non stop saturday so didnt get out, found a nice dry spot yeasterday, set up a track with some markers for the corners and my engine is barley doing walking pace!
Then a rock gets under the body and hits my on/off switch, turns it off and its a run away! I chased it for 200meter (far from the fittest bloke) luckily it got caught up in some tall grass, and stopped the engine before it did any more damage.
No vids or picks as I braley ran for 10 mins!
Im going to do a back to chassis clean up, might put up some pics on how it all goes back together, should I just post here or start a new thread on how to put it together?
what a crap weekend for rc for me LOL.
rained non stop saturday so didnt get out, found a nice dry spot yeasterday, set up a track with some markers for the corners and my engine is barley doing walking pace!
Then a rock gets under the body and hits my on/off switch, turns it off and its a run away! I chased it for 200meter (far from the fittest bloke) luckily it got caught up in some tall grass, and stopped the engine before it did any more damage.
No vids or picks as I braley ran for 10 mins!
Im going to do a back to chassis clean up, might put up some pics on how it all goes back together, should I just post here or start a new thread on how to put it together?
t2boats
Well-Known Member
crikey sperera, it's taken me ages to read all that thread, that's some story update you've compiled, nice one!! was tempted with the baja around a year ago, but with one thing and another, running the club n what not, i decided to convert the MB n eventually buy a baja5b as the 2WD (which i'm still waiting for from Mr Posty). since though, i've seen how many redundant parts i've got sat in the spares box after doing this 4WD conversion - there's loads!! so i'm gonna build an FG Beetle from them, just missing a carb...
few things i noted from your thread, you mentioned the layshaft gearing mesh, i've only ran mine for around 40mins so far, and we all know if you get the angle of the engine of out line from the diff it'll induce rapid wear on the teeth, i think (hopefully) mines bang in line at the mo, nothings moved or come loose as yet so i'm happy. i'm just miffed off that the conversion kit doesn't allow you to see the mesh of the 2 gears due to that annoying little cover, wish they could've made it transparent instead
another issue you mentioned was the suspension travel on FG's - it sucks!! that's something i've always wished was better. looking at it the problem seems to lie in the chassis, when the wishbones are fully down and shocks fully extended, the underside of the wishbones make contact with the chassis just nearby where they're bolted on. i was debating to file away the chassis a little in order to gain more travel, but havn't had the courage yet as there ain' much meat there, only a few mill' between the edge of the chassis and where the wishbone mounting holes go through.
anyway, crackin write up matey, keep ya 4WD baja news/developments coming
few things i noted from your thread, you mentioned the layshaft gearing mesh, i've only ran mine for around 40mins so far, and we all know if you get the angle of the engine of out line from the diff it'll induce rapid wear on the teeth, i think (hopefully) mines bang in line at the mo, nothings moved or come loose as yet so i'm happy. i'm just miffed off that the conversion kit doesn't allow you to see the mesh of the 2 gears due to that annoying little cover, wish they could've made it transparent instead
another issue you mentioned was the suspension travel on FG's - it sucks!! that's something i've always wished was better. looking at it the problem seems to lie in the chassis, when the wishbones are fully down and shocks fully extended, the underside of the wishbones make contact with the chassis just nearby where they're bolted on. i was debating to file away the chassis a little in order to gain more travel, but havn't had the courage yet as there ain' much meat there, only a few mill' between the edge of the chassis and where the wishbone mounting holes go through.
anyway, crackin write up matey, keep ya 4WD baja news/developments coming
pipeous
Well-Known Member
t2boats. I was thinking about the chassis same way. when I first started running an xray xb8, we used to file the chassis down to get more travel and they actually released the next version with the chassis mods
t2boats
Well-Known Member
that's exactly what i have in mind, nice one!! good pix, a picture tells a thousand words, explains it all. it will deffo give it more travel. it has to! im gonna start building the 2WD FG this evening after tea, so will file the chassis a bit and fit the wishbones, i'll take both measurements, suspension travel with normal chassis and travel with the chassis filed. i think there'll be a noticeable difference
PS - im open to name suggestions for the new car as its gonna be made up of parts from a marder, beetle, and leopard, they're all redundant parts too..
PS - im open to name suggestions for the new car as its gonna be made up of parts from a marder, beetle, and leopard, they're all redundant parts too..
sperera
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #308
crikey sperera, it's taken me ages to read all that thread, that's some story update you've compiled, nice one!! was tempted with the baja around a year ago, but with one thing and another, running the club n what not, i decided to convert the MB n eventually buy a baja5b as the 2WD (which i'm still waiting for from Mr Posty). since though, i've seen how many redundant parts i've got sat in the spares box after doing this 4WD conversion - there's loads!! so i'm gonna build an FG Beetle from them, just missing a carb...
few things i noted from your thread, you mentioned the layshaft gearing mesh, i've only ran mine for around 40mins so far, and we all know if you get the angle of the engine of out line from the diff it'll induce rapid wear on the teeth, i think (hopefully) mines bang in line at the mo, nothings moved or come loose as yet so i'm happy. i'm just miffed off that the conversion kit doesn't allow you to see the mesh of the 2 gears due to that annoying little cover, wish they could've made it transparent instead
another issue you mentioned was the suspension travel on FG's - it sucks!! that's something i've always wished was better. looking at it the problem seems to lie in the chassis, when the wishbones are fully down and shocks fully extended, the underside of the wishbones make contact with the chassis just nearby where they're bolted on. i was debating to file away the chassis a little in order to gain more travel, but havn't had the courage yet as there ain' much meat there, only a few mill' between the edge of the chassis and where the wishbone mounting holes go through.
anyway, crackin write up matey, keep ya 4WD baja news/developments coming
thats a great idea for transparent cover, might look into that, i can remove the cover without having to remove anything else so not a big deal, since modding the bracket i haven't had an issue with gear mesh though.
sperera
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #309
t2boats. I was thinking about the chassis same way. when I first started running an xray xb8, we used to file the chassis down to get more travel and they actually released the next version with the chassis mods
great work pipe, looks like youve really done your homework there. not sure if im capable of something like that but id love to find out if anyone has tried.
sperera
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #310
ok started the rebuild last night and got a fair bit of work done.
before i start though I want to point out that this is the way I tear it down and put it back together, im not saying its the best way or the way you have to do it, it just works for me. its not going to be a fast eddie style step by step tutorial, its going to be fast as I don't have the time or epquipment to do any different, if anything doesn't make sense feel free to ask.
im glad I did tear it down because I found a seized bearing that has melted the front diff housing and damged a pulley as a result, pics will show anyway.
So here goes
First thing I do is remove the radio tray. start by removing the two top nuts that go to front shockeks, pull them off the bolt, then 4 screws from underneath chassis that go to radio tray legs and lastly the two nuts and bolts that go to steering arms that join onto front uprights. remove the throttle brake horn and radio tray will lift out.
While hosing you want to keep as much water out of the belt system as possible so put a little rag above front diff as second picture shows.
before i start though I want to point out that this is the way I tear it down and put it back together, im not saying its the best way or the way you have to do it, it just works for me. its not going to be a fast eddie style step by step tutorial, its going to be fast as I don't have the time or epquipment to do any different, if anything doesn't make sense feel free to ask.
im glad I did tear it down because I found a seized bearing that has melted the front diff housing and damged a pulley as a result, pics will show anyway.
So here goes
First thing I do is remove the radio tray. start by removing the two top nuts that go to front shockeks, pull them off the bolt, then 4 screws from underneath chassis that go to radio tray legs and lastly the two nuts and bolts that go to steering arms that join onto front uprights. remove the throttle brake horn and radio tray will lift out.
While hosing you want to keep as much water out of the belt system as possible so put a little rag above front diff as second picture shows.
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sperera
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #311
Ok heres the next step. Remove the pipe, 2 botls into header and one into gear carrier.
Then remove throttle/brake linkages, earlier we removed the horn, this is still attached to these linkages, just remove the screw from the carby and loosen the bolt ontop of brake assy and it comes out in one pice, couldnt be any easier.
Now you can remove the roll cage, 4 nuts and bolts from behind goes through rear shock tower and two screws from underneath chassis.
Then remove throttle/brake linkages, earlier we removed the horn, this is still attached to these linkages, just remove the screw from the carby and loosen the bolt ontop of brake assy and it comes out in one pice, couldnt be any easier.
Now you can remove the roll cage, 4 nuts and bolts from behind goes through rear shock tower and two screws from underneath chassis.
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sperera
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #312
Next i remove the fuel tank, 4 scews underneath chassis and it lifts off. remember to plug the fuel lines otherwise you get fuel spilt everywhere (which I always forget to do :-[), when you pull the lines off the carby loosen the fuel cap, the pressure in tank will cause fuel to shoot through the line, i forgot this once and got fuel in my eye, hurt like buggery!
Next I remove the 4 bolts (will be screws if you run plastic engine mounts) that go from underneath chassis and into engine mounts, these stand out as they are the only bolts with large washers around them, you can see them in the indented section of the chassis in below pic.
don't remove the engine bracket bolt yet as shown later as this will cause the engine to drop off chassis completley, do that last!
Next I remove the 4 bolts (will be screws if you run plastic engine mounts) that go from underneath chassis and into engine mounts, these stand out as they are the only bolts with large washers around them, you can see them in the indented section of the chassis in below pic.
don't remove the engine bracket bolt yet as shown later as this will cause the engine to drop off chassis completley, do that last!
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sperera
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- Thread starter
- #313
ok next you want to remove the bolt from engine bracket, sits under carby and goes into the large engine mount at top, pic below shows this bolt, the one with the allen key on it. this is the last bolt holding the engine in (will be a screw if running plastic engine mount). the engine should then lift off complete with gear carrier, layshaft and brake assy. then you should be left with the second picture.
I always appreciate at this point how well the belt system is desinged, neat, tucked away and very secure.
I always appreciate at this point how well the belt system is desinged, neat, tucked away and very secure.
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sperera
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- Thread starter
- #314
Ok next i remove the two nuts at top of rear shockers and pop them off the bolt. I also remove the bolt that goes in through the top of upright, pic shows these have been removed. this needs to come off at a later stage anyway but I do it now.
then remove every single philips head screw from underneath chassis. these screws hold the belt covers and diff housings in place oh and the belt tensioner.
there are 4 bolts with allen key heads, don't remove these, these don't need to come off unless you want to replace the rear lower swing arms. pics later will explain this.
then remove every single philips head screw from underneath chassis. these screws hold the belt covers and diff housings in place oh and the belt tensioner.
there are 4 bolts with allen key heads, don't remove these, these don't need to come off unless you want to replace the rear lower swing arms. pics later will explain this.
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sperera
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- Thread starter
- #315
alright next I like to remove the tensioner. since all screws have been removed this will just pull out. the tensioner cops a fair bit of abuse so i reckomend checking this every 10-15 tanks.
its held together by 2 screws either side, really basic its a bar in middle, on it are 3 bearings, remove and clean/replace bearings as required. When assembling there are two plastic peices that hold it in the housing, put this on the bar and then clip together the two housing peices as shown in the pictures.
important not to overtighten the screws, this will stop the bearings spinning freely and cause the belt to grind against the bearings instead of the bearings turning with the belt, this will cause heat which will damage the belt and most likley melt the housing and destroy the bearings.
its held together by 2 screws either side, really basic its a bar in middle, on it are 3 bearings, remove and clean/replace bearings as required. When assembling there are two plastic peices that hold it in the housing, put this on the bar and then clip together the two housing peices as shown in the pictures.
important not to overtighten the screws, this will stop the bearings spinning freely and cause the belt to grind against the bearings instead of the bearings turning with the belt, this will cause heat which will damage the belt and most likley melt the housing and destroy the bearings.
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sperera
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- Thread starter
- #316
ok after rebilding the tensioner pull it aside the front diff housing, centre belt cover and rear diff housing will come off in one peice. you should be left with the chassis and rear arms as the other picture shows.
you can see how much dirt is caught up alongside where the belt cover goes, give the chassis a good clean before you start to re-assemble, should be easy now as its almost completley bare.
you can see how much dirt is caught up alongside where the belt cover goes, give the chassis a good clean before you start to re-assemble, should be easy now as its almost completley bare.
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sperera
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- Thread starter
- #317
now it gets a little tricky.
now its time to clean the drive system.
first pull the front diff housing apart, they just clip together so they will seperate easily, you can then just pull out the front diff which will easily come out and then the belt just falls away.
Now there are two pulleys for the belt in the front housing, remove these and clean the bearings, two on each pulley, replace if reuqired. the pulley with teeth goes down the bottom and the smooth pulley goes at the top. these pulleys just ensure the belt runs on the correct line, ive never had a belt come off its track ever so they must do as their intended.
You can see in one of the pics the LH front diff housing is melted and distorted, a bearing in one of the pulleys failed and caused this. i will be replacing the LH housing, both pulleys and the four bearings on either side of these pulleys.
The centre belt cover just clips apart. Clean everything as dirt does get in there eventually. As mentioned previously ideally you want to pull it down and give it a clean every 10-15 tanks to have it running perfectly. In the 40 tanks ive done this is the second time ive done it, if I did it earlier I may have avoided the bearing failure and having to replace the LH diff housing.
now its time to clean the drive system.
first pull the front diff housing apart, they just clip together so they will seperate easily, you can then just pull out the front diff which will easily come out and then the belt just falls away.
Now there are two pulleys for the belt in the front housing, remove these and clean the bearings, two on each pulley, replace if reuqired. the pulley with teeth goes down the bottom and the smooth pulley goes at the top. these pulleys just ensure the belt runs on the correct line, ive never had a belt come off its track ever so they must do as their intended.
You can see in one of the pics the LH front diff housing is melted and distorted, a bearing in one of the pulleys failed and caused this. i will be replacing the LH housing, both pulleys and the four bearings on either side of these pulleys.
The centre belt cover just clips apart. Clean everything as dirt does get in there eventually. As mentioned previously ideally you want to pull it down and give it a clean every 10-15 tanks to have it running perfectly. In the 40 tanks ive done this is the second time ive done it, if I did it earlier I may have avoided the bearing failure and having to replace the LH diff housing.
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sperera
Well-Known Member
- Thread starter
- #318
ok last thing I did last night was to pull the rear diff housing apart. to do this remove the 4 screws from back of suspension mount, and removed one e clip from swing arm road, this will allow one side of diff housing to come apart and you can slide the diff out from underneath. This is the best way I can explain it, to make sense im guessing you need to be doing it. It all makes sense when you doing it anyway.
Again clean everything, more dirt gets into the rear than the front thanks so take you time doing this. other than the tensioner which we covered earlier there are no pulleys on the rear so very straight foward. Just a cup (shown in pic) the diff sites in and thats held in place by the diff housing.
And that fellas is stripping it down. I wont be able to do much tonight, waiting on the new LH housing that part melted and the pulleys, also waiting on engine so ill just continue cleaning tonight and when everything comes in ill post pics on putting it all back together nice and clean
Again clean everything, more dirt gets into the rear than the front thanks so take you time doing this. other than the tensioner which we covered earlier there are no pulleys on the rear so very straight foward. Just a cup (shown in pic) the diff sites in and thats held in place by the diff housing.
And that fellas is stripping it down. I wont be able to do much tonight, waiting on the new LH housing that part melted and the pulleys, also waiting on engine so ill just continue cleaning tonight and when everything comes in ill post pics on putting it all back together nice and clean
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Rossco
Well-Known Member
You have grown somewhat more confident with the whole tear down thing huh.....nice to see bud...