- Messages
- 17,175
- Location
- Crafers South Australia
Get screw easy outs
Plagued with Engine Starting and Tuning Issues (Seems never ending)
- Thread starter pfrederi
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
- Messages
- 3,621
- Location
- Queens
Just drill right down the middle of the screw with a 4mm or somehting close, and drill the head out. Then remove the part and remove the rest of the screw with a vise grip
- Messages
- 7,019
- Location
- Nj
What you wanna do in this situation is drill the counter sink out of the screw only then when you can lift it up off the chassis take a pair of vise grips and remove the rest of the screw... have a good day 
- Messages
- 3,621
- Location
- Queens
- Messages
- 7,019
- Location
- Nj
Comes with experience bud..You'll get their one day
dude, back to the original problem, having the same issue with all 3 cars with running and tune,
as before rep said first i think, the fuel, what type, quality etc,
if the tune changes so much so quickly then sommats wrong ,
just to add to the fuel thing, do you have contaminated fuel ?
ie; fuel or fuel can thats got some crap or water in it,
you can mix fresh fuel all ya want to, but if theres crap in the mixing can or it gets left out with an open spout then crap or water can get in there,
seems odd yer havin the same issue with 3 cars, i also think sean said sommat similar ,
in the pics you posted it looks like you run in dirty/dusty conditions, especially the sportsline tank and carb are covered in crap,and the sportsline carb looks like its wet dirt on the outside, so possible fuel leak or air leak as well ,
as sean often says, back to basics and go from there
as before rep said first i think, the fuel, what type, quality etc,
if the tune changes so much so quickly then sommats wrong ,
just to add to the fuel thing, do you have contaminated fuel ?
ie; fuel or fuel can thats got some crap or water in it,
you can mix fresh fuel all ya want to, but if theres crap in the mixing can or it gets left out with an open spout then crap or water can get in there,
seems odd yer havin the same issue with 3 cars, i also think sean said sommat similar ,
in the pics you posted it looks like you run in dirty/dusty conditions, especially the sportsline tank and carb are covered in crap,and the sportsline carb looks like its wet dirt on the outside, so possible fuel leak or air leak as well ,
as sean often says, back to basics and go from there
- Messages
- 3,621
- Location
- Queens
or realise that rep was probably writing his reply at the same time as yerself , look at the times, 1 minute apartRead the post above your solution
- Thread starter
- #49
dude, back to the original problem, having the same issue with all 3 cars with running and tune,
as before rep said first i think, the fuel, what type, quality etc,
if the tune changes so much so quickly then sommats wrong ,
just to add to the fuel thing, do you have contaminated fuel ?
ie; fuel or fuel can thats got some crap or water in it,
you can mix fresh fuel all ya want to, but if theres crap in the mixing can or it gets left out with an open spout then crap or water can get in there,
seems odd yer havin the same issue with 3 cars, i also think sean said sommat similar ,
in the pics you posted it looks like you run in dirty/dusty conditions, especially the sportsline tank and carb are covered in crap,and the sportsline carb looks like its wet dirt on the outside, so possible fuel leak or air leak as well ,
as sean often says, back to basics and go from there
Appreciate your feedback. Everytime I run, my cars come back dirty though. Its not the fuel or the fuel can. I changed out and mixed new fuel batch unless some gremlins got in there and threw something in
Appreciate the feedback though.
- Messages
- 17,175
- Location
- Crafers South Australia
C
U ?
- Messages
- 7,019
- Location
- Nj
if its not gas,plugs,coils,rigs, theres one thing all 3 of your rigs share in common and thats you. clearly something is shared between these rigs for them to be acting the way they do. i know you don't like me from previous posts and i don't really care but what im trying to explain is that its damn near impossible for 3 rigs to share the same issues and you need to take a look at what you do that makes all of them run similar...look up what the start settings are for each carb and start there. go richer and then go leaner and both ways will give you a result. i fine tune my carbs sometimes on a feking nose hair of a turn and that all it takes for things to go good or to go bad.
- Messages
- 17,175
- Location
- Crafers South Australia
may have fallen asleep 
- Thread starter
- #54
My Rampage MT is still running and starting like a champ!!!
Finally got the engine off of my FG Sportline. It was b!@#% to get off though. As you will see in the pics there was a lil damage but nothing major. Luckily I had a spare engine mount in my parts because i do not have time to try and get that screw out now. Im not even quite sure how to gat a screw that small out. If i try and drill it out then Ill have no thread to be able to thread a new screw back in. Ask me how i know. I will attempt it though once i have a lil time so i can have a spare on hand just in case.
Anyways rebuilt my FG and put back together with new coils and plugs. NO SPARKY!!!! Im starting to think maybe its an issue with either the push button killswitch or the Killer Bee killswitch. Im leaning towards the Killer Bee. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot an issue with the Killer Bee switch w/o having to take the whole engine apart to take it off again?? In other words if i disconnect it. Ive had an issue couple years ago with the KB switch never could lock it down but was giving me crazy symptoms. I have Killer Bee switches on both my FG and my Rampage and thoise are the 2 main cars Im having most of the touble with although my Rampage seems to be running/starting fine so far now.
Finally got the engine off of my FG Sportline. It was b!@#% to get off though. As you will see in the pics there was a lil damage but nothing major. Luckily I had a spare engine mount in my parts because i do not have time to try and get that screw out now. Im not even quite sure how to gat a screw that small out. If i try and drill it out then Ill have no thread to be able to thread a new screw back in. Ask me how i know. I will attempt it though once i have a lil time so i can have a spare on hand just in case.
Anyways rebuilt my FG and put back together with new coils and plugs. NO SPARKY!!!! Im starting to think maybe its an issue with either the push button killswitch or the Killer Bee killswitch. Im leaning towards the Killer Bee. Does anyone know how to troubleshoot an issue with the Killer Bee switch w/o having to take the whole engine apart to take it off again?? In other words if i disconnect it. Ive had an issue couple years ago with the KB switch never could lock it down but was giving me crazy symptoms. I have Killer Bee switches on both my FG and my Rampage and thoise are the 2 main cars Im having most of the touble with although my Rampage seems to be running/starting fine so far now.
Attachments
- Messages
- 3,621
- Location
- Queens
Its hard to do, but I have done it with an engine with a broken screw in the shaft.
KevTrem
Well-Known Member
- Messages
- 897
- Location
- Newcastle, UK
Check your kill button on the engine is not stuck in, that can cause no spark.
Also your battery/batteries may not be good and throwing the KB in to fault or low voltage.
Then double check all connections and right along the cables. I had a kill switch fail because of a broken wire.
Also your battery/batteries may not be good and throwing the KB in to fault or low voltage.
Then double check all connections and right along the cables. I had a kill switch fail because of a broken wire.
what kev said above mate ,
also to rule out one problem with the killswitch just unplug it at the killswitch end (red plug) and you should get spark, if it still doesn't spark then more likely to be the push to kill which do go wrong and stick at random,
,also to rule out one problem with the killswitch just unplug it at the killswitch end (red plug) and you should get spark, if it still doesn't spark then more likely to be the push to kill which do go wrong and stick at random,
- Thread starter
- #58
what kev said above mate
also to rule out one problem with the killswitch just unplug it at the killswitch end (red plug) and you should get spark, if it still doesn't spark then more likely to be the push to kill which do go wrong and stick at random,
Thanks Kev and spent.
My Rampage MT stil running and starting up like a champ!!! Have not shifted my focus to my XCR yet until i figure out what the hell is going on with my FG.
Still trying to isolate the issue with my FG. SMH. Not making any sense at all. Problem is intermittent. First I did what u said and unplugged KB Kill switch. It started so there i was thinking well maybe its the KB kill switch. Disassembled the engine and took off the Killer Bee Kill switch completely and installed new standard Push button killswitch to further eliminate any other points of failure. Put back together. Didnt start. tried it the next day and it started but running erratic (this is with std setting for the 990 carb of L=1 1/8, H=1 5/8). It then cutout and wouldn start back up. SMH. I remebr at one point couple years back i was having similar issue with my Rampage MT and had to keep putting in new plugs and it would start so i put in brand new plug she started right up. Im not sure whats going on here. I heard somewhwere that the KB KillSwitch fouls up plugs but i took off the KB KillSwitch so Im not sure what to think here on this one. Like i said not consistent at all has me jumping all around based on the symptoms i get on any given day. Theres not much to these engines but this thing has me hopping all over the place.
Any of you gurus can help me on this one i would appreciate it. I dnt rmeber what happened with the the issue when i had it on my Rampage but im no longer having that issue.
- Messages
- 17,175
- Location
- Crafers South Australia
I would for your situation put an 1107 carb on your motor much easier to start.
Kb kill switches do not foul plugs
a rich needle setting is responsible for that with these 1/5 a kill switch is a non negotiable item. Have to make sure its plugged i right and your coil is gapped right ,business card works just right there
much easier to start.Kb kill switches do not foul plugs
a rich needle setting is responsible for that with these 1/5 a kill switch is a non negotiable item. Have to make sure its plugged i right and your coil is gapped right ,business card works just right there- Thread starter
- #60
I would for your situation put an 1107 carb on your motor
Kb kill switches do not foul plugs
Yeah i feel more confortable knowing i have a killswitch installed while driving. Ask me why LOL!! But if its the source of an issue ill take it off in a heartbeat. Cant say thats my issue here though. Ill probably end up putting it back on seeing that it was still not starting with it off. I dnt have another 1107 laying around but i got a couple new 990s. Ill probably put a new one in. back to taking that engine off and back on again. At least its much easier now that i haven't Loctite it in place LOL.
Thx for your input though