New Grave Digger owner

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Installed the upgraded fuel system.

Gave it more thought, and while I was initially convinced about my inline filter removal ... I've been flying large scale RC airplanes (kit builder) with radials and multi-cylinder engines up to 250CC and I've always been very careful with fuel delivery in the planes. Obviously extremely important to keep fuel flowing in all orientations, and to eliminate bubbles from entering into the fuel lines and causing issues.

I figured this would be equally important with a big truck like this, landing and jumping around, sloshing fuel in the tank.

So I installed along with the high-flow fuel kit, and 1 way vent setup ... my usual. Combination fuel filter, and small reservoir setup that holds around 2oz of fuel closer to the carb. Having a fuel reservoir means that if the clunk introduces bubbles (this can happen more frequently when the fuel level decreases in the tank) or lifts outside of the fuel temporarily, there's more than enough reserve fuel closer to the tank that the fuel flow should remain steady without bubbles or leaning of the mixture. Theoretically, if you're able to balance the truck up on its nose, you can run without issue. Much more like a real monster truck ... the next level upgrade to that, is a winged felt clunk that soaks up every last drop of fuel inside the tank.

The tanks in RC airplanes are typically designed so the clunk and line connecting the clunk, is centered in the middle of the tank. That way if the orientation of the plane changes, the clunk can reach all corners of the tank. The way the tank is designed on this truck, the clunk is effectively stuck in one corner of the tank. So if your truck is getting low on fuel, and is leaning over on the right two wheels (banked turn, side of a ramp etc. etc.) the clunk will for sure be outside of the fuel mixture ... in comes the reservoir.

So, long story short ... that was also the idea of the smaller filter as well, that it would add a tiny bit of extra fuel to the lines while filtering any fibers out introduced by a felt clunk without it reaching the carb.

Sorry ... but honestly, if you seal and secure the filter properly. I've never had a single flame out with airplanes or otherwise, so I humbly disagree there but it did prompt me to do a better job overall than what I initially setup. So thank you there!

There's an added benefit with my setup as well since I have a T at the entry point of the filter. I have an easy way of removing all of the fuel from the tank as I've extended a drain line with a plug out the side of the chassis that is hidden by the body of the truck. I have a small adaptor that allows me to quick connect my fuel can to that line, and pump out all the fuel from the tank. Again ... from the RC airplane side of things.
 

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Installed the upgraded fuel system.

Gave it more thought, and while I was initially convinced about my inline filter removal ... I've been flying large scale RC airplanes (kit builder) with radials and multi-cylinder engines up to 250CC and I've always been very careful with fuel delivery in the planes. Obviously extremely important to keep fuel flowing in all orientations, and to eliminate bubbles from entering into the fuel lines and causing issues.

I figured this would be equally important with a big truck like this, landing and jumping around, sloshing fuel in the tank.

So I installed along with the high-flow fuel kit, and 1 way vent setup ... my usual. Combination fuel filter, and small reservoir setup that holds around 2oz of fuel closer to the carb. Having a fuel reservoir means that if the clunk introduces bubbles (this can happen more frequently when the fuel level decreases in the tank) or lifts outside of the fuel temporarily, there's more than enough reserve fuel closer to the tank that the fuel flow should remain steady without bubbles or leaning of the mixture. Theoretically, if you're able to balance the truck up on its nose, you can run without issue. Much more like a real monster truck ... the next level upgrade to that, is a winged felt clunk that soaks up every last drop of fuel inside the tank.

The tanks in RC airplanes are typically designed so the clunk and line connecting the clunk, is centered in the middle of the tank. That way if the orientation of the plane changes, the clunk can reach all corners of the tank. The way the tank is designed on this truck, the clunk is effectively stuck in one corner of the tank. So if your truck is getting low on fuel, and is leaning over on the right two wheels (banked turn, side of a ramp etc. etc.) the clunk will for sure be outside of the fuel mixture ... in comes the reservoir.

So, long story short ... that was also the idea of the smaller filter as well, that it would add a tiny bit of extra fuel to the lines while filtering any fibers out introduced by a felt clunk without it reaching the carb.

Sorry ... but honestly, if you seal and secure the filter properly. I've never had a single flame out with airplanes or otherwise, so I humbly disagree there but it did prompt me to do a better job overall than what I initially setup. So thank you there!

There's an added benefit with my setup as well since I have a T at the entry point of the filter. I have an easy way of removing all of the fuel from the tank as I've extended a drain line with a plug out the side of the chassis that is hidden by the body of the truck. I have a small adaptor that allows me to quick connect my fuel can to that line, and pump out all the fuel from the tank. Again ... from the RC airplane side of things.
I run the winged clunk in all my rc, and about half my saws. I believe it was originally for flight, but it's great at keeping fuel flowing. Which was an issue in my old dbxl. Get down. To about 1/4 tank amd I would have intermittent fuel issues. Winged clunk solved that.
 
Nice, the winged clunk is definitely the way to go I think.

All finished up, just waiting to run. Debating buying a set of 4 of the purple anodized beadlocks and a couple of the wooden stands Primal offers.

How are you guys storing your trucks? Just leaving these beasts on the wheels or is there something that holds the truck up and gives the suspension and tires a bit of a break. Seems these tires are pretty tough though and don't really deform much.
 

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Well my shop is in my basement , so my raminator , literally was in my living room, the whole time I had it , wife says the digger gets one week in the living room , might have to administer a elevator some how , or maybe just a big hole in the hallway floor , oh well , he will find his place , come on,,,,,,,, rollers !!
 
Nice, the winged clunk is definitely the way to go I think.

All finished up, just waiting to run. Debating buying a set of 4 of the purple anodized beadlocks and a couple of the wooden stands Primal offers.

How are you guys storing your trucks? Just leaving these beasts on the wheels or is there something that holds the truck up and gives the suspension and tires a bit of a break. Seems these tires are pretty tough though and don't really deform much.
I just let mine sit wherever I have space for them. Never had tires deform on a 1/5 scale.
 
Nice, the winged clunk is definitely the way to go I think.

All finished up, just waiting to run. Debating buying a set of 4 of the purple anodized beadlocks and a couple of the wooden stands Primal offers.

How are you guys storing your trucks? Just leaving these beasts on the wheels or is there something that holds the truck up and gives the suspension and tires a bit of a break. Seems these tires are pretty tough though and don't really deform much.

Mount them on the wall with 3/4 pipe, two posts under the frame
 
Nice, the winged clunk is definitely the way to go I think.

All finished up, just waiting to run. Debating buying a set of 4 of the purple anodized beadlocks and a couple of the wooden stands Primal offers.

How are you guys storing your trucks? Just leaving these beasts on the wheels or is there something that holds the truck up and gives the suspension and tires a bit of a break. Seems these tires are pretty tough though and don't really deform much.
Mine stays on a folding step stool. Keeps the tires off the ground and allows the suspension to not sit under full load. Have done this for years and never had an issue.
20230403_191743.jpg
 
That’s a good solution Rick. Maybe I’ll try to find a small stool like that. I’d prefer not to sit it long term on the springs.
 
That’s a good solution Rick. Maybe I’ll try to find a small stool like that. I’d prefer not to sit it long term on the springs.
I got my folding one from Amazon. Its 9" tall I believe. Was right around 11 bucks. 😎
Ya ya ya ,,,, you luck raminator owners , everybody wishes they had your problems 🤣😂🤑🤑🤑🤑🤑
May I add sir...you were one of us..but bailed on your Raminator..sold it off like a second hand misfit toy lol.
 
I e mailed primal rc ,he says there is no plan to have any roller raminators or gravedigger's , at all was his exact words , RRRRRRAAAATSS !!!! Geuss I'll have to fill the hobby shop trash can again with useless crap !! That will make 4 useless unstarted engines from junk crap marketing , so everyone can afford to buy these things
 
Just have to sell off all the unwanted electronics and engine
The servos and radio should be easy enough to sell off, lots of people (myself included) are still using the stock electronics
Just in case anyone is curios as to what a gen 2 looks like with a digger cage/body
I don’t think it looks too bad actually
 

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Nice :)

Still have yet to run mine, but upgraded the outside beadlock rims and the hubcaps. The purple anodized beadlocks are awesome looking. Left the stock green on the inside, and purple on the outside. Between the new hubcaps and the beadlocks, this thing looks amazing.

Set the spring pre-load up to have a bit more; sits much nicer now and has more usable shock travel than how the shocks came set with preload; no idea how it handles yet but I'm now 100% out of upgrade components short of pulling the diffs apart which I probably should've. That's the only thing I didn't mess with.

Have a new Futaba 10PX radio coming so I can use an additional channel as a light switch. Right now I have everything running on a 4 channel receiver (no need for a 5th or 6th channel just to hook up the voltage display; just need another Y cable) but I like being able to control the headlights from the remote, and will probably upgrade to rear-steer as another project a bit later on.
 

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Nice :)

Still have yet to run mine, but upgraded the outside beadlock rims and the hubcaps. The purple anodized beadlocks are awesome looking. Left the stock green on the inside, and purple on the outside. Between the new hubcaps and the beadlocks, this thing looks amazing.

Set the spring pre-load up to have a bit more; sits much nicer now and has more usable shock travel than how the shocks came set with preload; no idea how it handles yet but I'm now 100% out of upgrade components short of pulling the diffs apart which I probably should've. That's the only thing I didn't mess with.

Have a new Futaba 10PX radio coming so I can use an additional channel as a light switch. Right now I have everything running on a 4 channel receiver (no need for a 5th or 6th channel just to hook up the voltage display; just need another Y cable) but I like being able to control the headlights from the remote, and will probably upgrade to rear-steer as another project a bit later on.
That thing is beautiful! I wish I would have waited and got this..but had no idea it was coming out when I purchased my V2. I have done so much to my V2 I cant justify grabbing a digger.
 
Yes sir ,Mr DIZZLE ! You were smarter than you know , by leaving that stock engine in there , I've said all along all that 50gt is gunna do is rip that truck apart, well , I owned it and it did rip it apart , thunder rc dude agrees now also , he put his stock engine back in after $1000's of dollars in damages , that's partly what brought me to selling it , I'm getting a gravedigger and leaving it alone , aside from changing carburator , pipe and brake servo , receiver n transmitter
 
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