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my t1000 still strong as ever nothing broke yet, cuz i replaced all the parts with stronger stuff before i even run it lol but nothing broke still runs like a screamin demon only thing getting worn is my tires will need new ones soon Dan is the number one guy to buy a KM from he stands behind...

i replaced the stock km diff case with aftermarket alloy case split case too to make swapping or getting diff inside it out easier, aftermarket drive shafts too darksoul bones I think it was, I didn't have any issues with fit I used a km diff inside it all metal and the original shaft to clutch...

on mine once it didnt wanna start discovered after time the rx battery had gone down and i have the killerbee on it, that will not let engine start if rx battery is too low, if u got a bee then make sure rx batt is fully charged and not low

don't really sound like it. lol

like i said get a ps with the collared pawl the collar keeps the pawl from jackin sideways and messing it up, mines 3 years old after the original no collar ps did that, hasnt messed up since i put the collered style on mine

yah my t1000 has run like a champ haven't broken anything expensive really, just the PS on 2nd tank, solved by gettin a new one with the collar round the pawl and its still workin to this day just fine. i did lots of upgrading on mine, mostly on the upper portions. goin to alloy parts. but in...

the bell housing on large gear has a hole on its side, you have to rotate the middle part till the scew shows up in the hole, there will be one for each half of the clutch so u have to rotate agin to other screw. you have to adjust those screws evenly. i had to adjust mine a bit to time when 2nd...

my 2 speed was a lil tight but i loosened all mount bolts and placed a piece of thicker cardboard between the gears and retightened up the bolts pulled the cardboard out and it left the perfect amount of gap and mines been runnin great ever since

my 2 speed on my t1000 has been runnin just fine. mine was a bit tight too but doin upgrades i maade a lil more gap on the mesh and so far so good runnin just fine. still on original owb and everything. i upgraded to d s brakes and the one piece upper brake mount. that required a drilling out...

the housing BEHIND the clutch. its either solid made into the engine or has bolts that bolt it to engineblock

you would prolly have to do a lil lookin or maybe just pm Dan on ebay see if he knows if theres aftermarket arms around

yah on my t1000 i did alot of upgradin before anythin ever broke, in fact nothing broke, i just got upgrade bug, and i discovered mine was pretty sloppy too, and the shims did the trick, bbut i upgraded to ally steering control, that and the shims made a solid steering setup

you will not want aluminum A arms . you want a break point so rest of buggy isnt hurt. front bumpers rear bumpers, you want plastic to absorb impacts, A arms as well, if alloy a impact could buckle the frame itself anf u screwed. if you want better a arms get set of RPM's they tuffer than stock.

np, its a hassle to tear it down but you just add shims on top posts till theres no more up/down slop left

buy some fast eddy steering post shims

i didnt remove mine just did upgrades in that area and reset the gap before tightened back up still runs fine

yah had my km t1000 for a cple years now and nothing has ever broken on it but the PS on 2nd tank, but i fixed that by replacing it with one that had collar on the wheel, that kept pawl from cockin sideways and bending it up

no its not normal, mine were tight. better replace them

also check to make sure clearance isnt too tight between the pinion and spur wheels. if too tight can cause same issue. mine was too but i loosened all the mounting screws and made a lil clearance while holding that space retighten mount bolts again. it don't take much space.

only thing you might do is try to drill the bolt out with drill bit, and then with a punch try tapping the cross pin out