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Most likely the plastic for the brakes on the pushchair. It's usually a metal rod engaging the plastic you see in the pic.

Fitted IRC hinge pins, IRC black brace set and a Turtle Racing V2 Clutch Case for the Zenoah G320.

Sounds like you watched a video with a Turtle Racing quick diff. Try this one: http://youtu.be/Wr7AJqIF4PA I would also recommend getting the HPI Baja manual from here: https://www.hpiracing.com/instructions/10621

Take a look at the Baja manual. It'll save you a lot of headache :) I've attached a snapshot of the rear hub. Manual: https://www.hpiracing.com/instructions/112457

IIRC they can with the disclaimer that older versions might not. http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gr3f.html

A google search gives this result: http://goo.gl/BdTmyq This is a great forum and I'm not trying to get rid of you but there are a few AUS forums for LS as well which you might find useful. http://www.ausrc.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?71-HPI-Baja...

Here's a video from PhatdadRC on the subject:

Great news! Happy running :)

I'd unplug the stop button to rule that out. Also check the coil gap. If your still not getting a spark with the button unplugged and the gap set correctly it might be a faulty coil. This is a guide for the Baja but still useful: https://www.largescaleforums.com/showthread.php?t=12077

Fitted a Kraken Ti layshaft, Team Chase rear uprights and Fullforce RC extended spring cups.

There's always a risk involved. A fully enclosed might overheat easier than one that isn't. However, running the stock setup allows for debris to enter the clutch area. The Vertigo is a semi enclosed carrier since it's also vented. As I wrote earlier, I'm running the fully enclosed Turtle V2...

Personally I would by the Vertigo over the HPI version. Especially if you're running in sand. Available in black or silver http://www.davesmotors.com/vertigo-61765-billet-clutch-drum-carrier-for-hpi-baja-5b-5t-5sc-black.html...

I'm using the TR V2 clutch system and very happy with it. TR Race system ($160): http://www.davesmotors.com/turtle-racing-race-edition-complete-clutch-system-for-hpi-baja-5b-5t.html TR V2($175)...

Also check that the carb bolts aren't too long and causing an air leak. This can easily happen if your'e running a billet manifold with teflon gaskets. Had that happen on my rig. :)

Silicone tubing is what you need! :) I have no idea what the size you need but here are some examples: http://www.davesmotors.com/reinforced-silicone-tube-for-x-cans.html http://www.davesmotors.com/fd175-90-degree-silicone-tube.html http://www.davesmotors.com/fd172_2.html And the one used to...

You're quite right about the kill switch not applying brakes. To my experience the times I've had use of the kill switch due to a servo failure it's been because the throttle servo has fried which render the fail safe inoperable in that sense that the brakes can't be applied. The only scenario...

Are you referring to the Baja? As far as I know the difference between 5B & 5T are rear wheel dimensions, body and plastic to mount the body. All hardware parts are shared between them so big bore shocks for the B will fit just fine on the T. The SC has some upgraded parts over the T and B but...

The original fuel lines pinch very easily. My recommendation is to upgrade the fuel lines to something like: http://www.gizmomotors.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&view=productdetails&virtuemart_category_id=21&virtuemart_product_id=139 There's also a very good kit from Fullforce RC...

Here's a list of what's needed for a complete conversion: http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78713

Umbrella seals: http://www.davesmotors.com/tt723.html