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A few years ago I wanted to switch my old NiMH batteries to LiPo. I have the same three servo setup as yours, but because they are older cars with older electronics, they are limited to a maximum of 6 volts. Perhaps they could handle more volts without damage, but nothing I read said they...

It will be worth the bit of extra effort to make it work. My Vekta .5 & TLR 5ive B both benefit from the extra torque.

That will be a blast. Let us know how it goes..

How is the rebuild going? What parts are you looking for?

You may not be able to see from the pictures, but those are not stickers on the outside of the shell. It's all painted, or appears to be, from the inside. Its not perfect, but someone did an exceptional job.

That's my Mercedes shell. I purchased used about 2 years ago. I am a huge fan of the Mercedes.

There are a few places that onroad is still alive. https://www.rctech.net/forum/oval-larger-scales-more/1005857-1-5-scale-road-international-grand-prix-miami-fl-march-9-10-11-2018-a.html That race was this weekend. Last I heard, people were racing 5th scale in California, Texas, Illinois ...

http://www.rctek.com/cars/fg/catalog/2000/index.php Ithis may be what you want. I'm driving so I can't examine it too closely

Ebay Uk also have body shells for sale. Some new, some used.

Have you checked these guys? https://rc-car-online.de/en/499-fg.html

Awesome. I think you can choose a shell from most of the "long wheel base options" that are available. The post may need some adjustment, etc. But FG has a nice selection. I've only fitted the BMW and Honda Accord, but there are others.

If you have, or don't mind purchasing an expensive charger that can charge LiFe batteries, consider using one for your reciever pack in the car. If the voltage limit of your electronics is 6V, LiFe will likely give you more mAh than AA batteries. That will mean longer run times and a more...

What battery are you planning on ordering?

You could try and hold the button in continuously while you go back through the bind process. That might work.

It's the momentary that's giving you the trouble. That button is always on keeping the kill switch in engine run mode until you press it; and only while you are pressing it is the button off and the kill swich killing the engine

Ok, I just checked my Spektrum DX4R to see how I have my kill switch button setup. My kill switch is on the "F" button on the transmitter and plugged into Aux 1 on the reciever. Then I went into the menu LIST, then to SYSTEM, then to SWITCH SELECT, then to the letter F. Highlight and change...

Cool, let us know how it turns out.

So if both radio and reciever are powered up, red light on. Hit the button, red light goes off, turn off power in the vehicle, add bind plug, power reciever back up and get rapid flash. Then put transmitter in bind mode to finish the process. Test for results.