5ive-T 2.0 Aluminum Chassis Braces a Must?

[alajeunesse254]

I'm planning on picking up a new 5ive-t 2.0 soon for my first big rig and have seen that many people over the years have recommended chassis braces on the platform. Are these a must or just recommended if you plan on sending it to the moon? Assuming that the stock ones breaking at some point will result in some type of bent chassis, and given the price of a new chassis plate ($275!), I'm thinking I should probably spend the $80 up front for reinforcement, but I see others post that they beat the truck as hard as they can stock and it can take it. Mostly going to be doing backyard track driving/bashing, not planning on launching it off my roof. Thanks

 

[DougStar]

If it where me I'd get ??? but in saying that it's a fail safe......that's not true I I bent my losi 5b chassis and i had the braces ?? so your call??

 

[crucialRC]

When bashing, I think it all comes down to how you cartwheel or lawn dart in the event of a spill. Don't have to be trying to jump to the moon to bend the chassis. You can do it just by sticking a turn to hard and she starts to tumble or a tree happens to jump out in front of you. The stiffer brace will hold the chassis shape a lot longer than the stock plastic one. Now if you are planning on racing the buggy or truck on a track with jumps then I would say its a must. Good luck with your choice.

 

[21bangbang]

Only if you break the stock ones.?

 

[alajeunesse254]

When bashing, I think it all comes down to how you cartwheel or lawn dart in the event of a spill. Don't have to be trying to jump to the moon to bend the chassis. You can do it just by sticking a turn to hard and she starts to tumble or a tree happens to jump out in front of you. The stiffer brace will hold the chassis shape a lot longer than the stock plastic one. Now if you are planning on racing the buggy or truck on a track with jumps then I would say its a must. Good luck with your choice.

This is great advice and exactly what I was looking for. Looks like I'll grab them with the truck. I'm also planning on getting outerwears, 60k and 500k diff fluid, extra filter foams, extra plugs and the killerbee kill switch based on what I've read on here. Anything else that's super obvious that I'm missing? Thanks again!

 

[crucialRC]

This is great advice and exactly what I was looking for. Looks like I'll grab them with the truck. I'm also planning on getting outerwears, 60k and 500k diff fluid, extra filter foams, extra plugs and the killerbee kill switch based on what I've read on here. Anything else that's super obvious that I'm missing? Thanks again!

don't forget some quality oil to mix with the fuel. Everything else sounds spot on. Oh, hope your not using the spektrum radio with the killer bee cause if you are, I'm guessing you will be back? And welcome to the fun house!

 

[alajeunesse254]

don't forget some quality oil to mix with the fuel. Everything else sounds spot on. Oh, hope your not using the spektrum radio with the killer bee cause if you are, I'm guessing you will be back? And welcome to the fun house!

I plan on running Lucas oil which I anticipate will be fine. I've always run Spectro oils in our motocross bikes but I don't think I'm going to need to go super fancy as I'm planning on keeping the engine stock. Also will only be running ethanol free fuel.

As far as I have read the Super Bee should be fine as long as I disabled avc, which I have no desire to even try running with it on.

 

[Dank]

I would strongly recommend getting a set of the MOD differential inserts for the rear. Go to Matt olson designs . Those and a set of the limiting straps. I've been running lucas oil in all my trucks & buggy. I run OBR motors hard no problems in the last year.

 

[alajeunesse254]

I would strongly recommend getting a set of the MOD differential inserts for the rear. Go to Matt olson designs . Those and a set of the limiting straps. I've been running lucas oil in all my trucks & buggy. I run OBR motors hard no problems in the last year.

I appreciate the advice I watched a video on the play that they can come with and it looks scary, I don't know as though I would have ever found those without your help. Do you know if the 2.0 still has that slop issue? I will be pulling, cleaning and refilling the diffs before I run the truck so I'm sure I will find out eventually but it's hard to tell which issues were corrected between the T1.0 and 2.0. Limiting straps look to be a good investment too given the mass of those arms/wheels swinging around

 

[Dank]

I appreciate the advice I watched a video on the play that they can come with and it looks scary, I don't know as though I would have ever found those without your help. Do you know if the 2.0 still has that slop issue? I will be pulling, cleaning and refilling the diffs before I run the truck so I'm sure I will find out eventually but it's hard to tell which issues were corrected between the T1.0 and 2.0. Limiting straps look to be a good investment too given the mass of those arms/wheels swinging around

Yes they will develop the slop/play after a while. My truck is the 2.0, I was getting the bypass pistons for it and noticed wear in mine. I had been running mine for about 7 months offroad racing. I don't bash with my truck but I run it hard every time we hit the track. The only difference i see between 1.0 and 2.0 is the center differential is turned around and slightly moved over and the steering servo saver is flipped over to the top. There's not really any difference in performance. The best performance upgrade would be a pipe. Obr makes a good pipe they run about 175.00 and Bartolone makes a really good pipe they run about 235.00. I put the bartolone pipe on dads truck and i have the obr on mine. I am lucky i race with some very talented guys. Most are sponcered and very knowledgeable. They have helped me out tremendously. If I can help you out let me know. Your stock motor will get a lot faster as you break it in. It will take about a gallon or so of fuel. My dads running my stock 32 it will keep up with my new 32 piston port motor. If your around so California come run on our track. I guarantee you won't meet a nicer group of guys.

 

[DougStar]

I would strongly recommend getting a set of the MOD differential inserts for the rear. Go to Matt olson designs . Those and a set of the limiting straps. I've been running lucas oil in all my trucks & buggy. I run OBR motors hard no problems in the last year.

I also have the inserts?? good buy. And as far as the 2.0 having the slop ? the diff housing is the same design across the 5 platform so the slop is 100% still there✔???

 

[alajeunesse254]

If your around so California come run on our track. I guarantee you won't meet a nicer group of guys.

Man I wish I was but unfortunately I'm on the other side of the country in Vermont (hence the reason I haven't picked up the truck yet, still snow covered up here). I'll be keeping the motor pretty much stock with the stock pipe for now because I plan on running around my home within a neighborhood and I know the aftermarket pipes can be a lot louder but if I do go ahead and do anything for performance after I get the durability taken care of the pipe would be the logical first step. I appreciate all of the advice!

 

[alajeunesse254]

So I finally pulled the truck apart to do servos, aluminum braces, diff fluid, MOD rear inserts, etc and ran into a couple of issues so far, don't know if anyone has experience/advice for what I'm seeing...

The rear aluminum chassis brace isn't threaded as deep as the stock plastic one on the rear-most chassis mount point, the stock m5x20 bottoms out in the threads. Is this normal? The only other option I'll have is an m5x12 when my screw kit comes in later this week and I'm not sure if that will be quite long enough.


The d845 servos have a much taller triangular support in between the mounting holes which causes the throttle/brake brace to hit it before the brace bottoms out on the rubber inserts. Do I trim the brace and potentially weaken it or trim the triangle support on the servo? I'm afraid if I go cutting into the servo and it dies in a week I'm shot for support.

Any advice would be appreciated!

 

[Seandonato73]

Cut the bolt down with a dremel, and you need to make a spacer to bump up the servo. Common issue with them from what I've heard. Doug or mike can fill you in on their rig to make them work

 

[evssv]

i used sum 3mm perspex to make my spacers ?

 

[alajeunesse254]

I haven't set the steering servo in yet but I understand the spacers are to keep the servo off of the chassis because it is taller? The throttle servo sits well of above the chassis and if I need them I have some spare 3mm wheel collars for an airplane I built that I'll use as spacers for the steering. I did have to open up the servo holes in the tray because these are significantly wider than stock and were a tight fit. I ground out the sides to make space so the servo will float and not take the chassis vibration through the radio tray. I'm pretty sure at this point I'm just going to plug everything in, make sure the servos work and grind into the blue servo top to open up for the throttle brace to sit flush

 

[EdwardSimpson]

Thank you so much Mate

 

[Torred]

I cut up the plastic servo horns that came with my 845. Used a straight horn for the bottom to lift it up, & cut the circular one for the top. I did it so the horn screw mount clears the tab on the servo. Also had to buy longer screws, 30 or 40mm long

 

[alajeunesse254]

It's coming along. I cut the screw for the rear brace (and later realized I have 3 shorter sizes of 5mm screw on hand). Trimmed up the top of the throttle servo so the brake brace sits flush, put some wheel collars under the steering servo to move it up, outerwears on the bottom of the engine (thanks to crucial for the unfortunate lesson), red springs up front, orange in the rear, diffs done and MOD inserts in. Daddy duty called before I could get the rear end back on

 

[21bangbang]

So I finally pulled the truck apart to do servos, aluminum braces, diff fluid, MOD rear inserts, etc and ran into a couple of issues so far, don't know if anyone has experience/advice for what I'm seeing...

The rear aluminum chassis brace isn't threaded as deep as the stock plastic one on the rear-most chassis mount point, the stock m5x20 bottoms out in the threads. Is this normal? The only other option I'll have is an m5x12 when my screw kit comes in later this week and I'm not sure if that will be quite long enough.


The d845 servos have a much taller triangular support in between the mounting holes which causes the throttle/brake brace to hit it before the brace bottoms out on the rubber inserts. Do I trim the brace and potentially weaken it or trim the triangle support on the servo? I'm afraid if I go cutting into the servo and it dies in a week I'm shot for support.

Any advice would be appreciated!

I cut my servo. Still going strong after about a year.