Aluminum or plastic carb insulator?

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Ncmayo

Ncmayo

Active Member
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39
Ok I have a buddy that put the metal/aluminum isolater on his motor where the carb bolts to motor. It will run a few laps until motor gets hot and will stop running. The carb will not pump any gas to the primer until it cools back down. Told him sounds like it's vapor locking and put plastic insulator back on and should fix problem but he doesn't believe that's the problem so what are yall experience if any or opinions.
 
Ncmayo said:
Ok I have a buddy that put the metal/aluminum isolater on his motor where the carb bolts to motor. It will run a few laps until motor gets hot and will stop running. The carb will not pump any gas to the primer until it cools back down. Told him sounds like it's vapor locking and put plastic insulator back on and should fix problem but he doesn't believe that's the problem so what are yall experience if any or opinions.
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It will be vapor lock 100%
Did his manifold not come with Teflon gaskets? Screenshot_20190605_182355_com.touchtype.swiftkey.jpg
Like so☝??
 
Ncmayo said:
Ok I have a buddy that put the metal/aluminum isolater on his motor where the carb bolts to motor. It will run a few laps until motor gets hot and will stop running. The carb will not pump any gas to the primer until it cools back down. Told him sounds like it's vapor locking and put plastic insulator back on and should fix problem but he doesn't believe that's the problem so what are yall experience if any or opinions.
Click to expand...
The rb innovation isolator block gave me problem, heated up everything 50 bucks wasted, went back to plastic and everything is great!
dougstar said:
View attachment 51750I bought an alloy manifold for my losi and .....well it's just not cut it? last run it was hot to the touch? so with my last order I got a new stock plastic manifold and gaskets?? my losi ran much better with the stock part
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Yep that’s the set up right there!!!
 
I had the rb one with both gaskets one between the engine manifold and one between the carb and manifold never had a problem not much of a benefit. . I just wanted it but didn't need it situation
 
Dougstar that is not even close to being true the Stock are junk and that is why the engine guys have developed a better product. Just because your setup was incorrect doesn't mean that the stock run better. But hey run it till it breaks and causes an air leak that causes more tuning issues and lean motor conditions. Either way its ultimately it's the owners choice on what parts to use.
 
One would think ,that you would want to keep the heat off the carb ,there is fragile diaphrams in there ,aluminum
will only transfer heat to them ,the heated gas will expand ,an you don't want those diaphrams to have any pressure
on them ,the pressure will lock them up from pulsating ,as they need to be limber an free!
 
Well considering that I actually race with the guy building the motors from OBR and we have talked about this issue several times and helped countless others fix the same problems you have had with the OBR billet intake then maybe your argument might be valid. Why would every Signature series motor from OBR come with a billet manifold unless they were a better product. It wouldn't make sense for them from a business stand point to sell a motor with a intake that is causing them problems. I believe Sean instructed you to take off the intake that was junk that you were running with out a proper spacer that was causing your carb to act up. If you would have had the proper spacing and actually isolated the heat then you would not have an issue. However the Stock intake is prone to cracking and warping which will cause a motor to develop an air leak that causes them to go lean and run dangerously hot. If you can show me somewhere that OBR has told you their billet manifolds are junk and to not run them then I would like to see that but I seriously doubt that would come from Sean of Dan. I am not trying to argue, I just hate seeing people put info out for others that is clearly wrong or misleading especially is it has no facts to back it up. Not all parts are created equal so a blanket statement that Billet manifold are junk is clearly naive.
 
Frenimy said:
Well considering that I actually race with the guy building the motors from OBR and we have talked about this issue several times and helped countless others fix the same problems you have had with the OBR billet intake then maybe your argument might be valid. Why would every Signature series motor from OBR come with a billet manifold unless they were a better product. It wouldn't make sense for them from a business stand point to sell a motor with a intake that is causing them problems. I believe Sean instructed you to take off the intake that was junk that you were running with out a proper spacer that was causing your carb to act up. If you would have had the proper spacing and actually isolated the heat then you would not have an issue. However the Stock intake is prone to cracking and warping which will cause a motor to develop an air leak that causes them to go lean and run dangerously hot. If you can show me somewhere that OBR has told you their billet manifolds are junk and to not run them then I would like to see that but I seriously doubt that would come from Sean of Dan. I am not trying to argue, I just hate seeing people put info out for others that is clearly wrong or misleading especially is it has no facts to back it up. Not all parts are created equal so a blanket statement that Billet manifold are junk is clearly naive.
Click to expand...

What is the general consensus in this thread? ....... what is the answers that pops up the most? So you saying we are all wrong?
At the end of the day do what works for you??
 
Cbaker65 that is correct. The carb needs to be isolated from the heat with the correct spacer. Zenoah does this by making the intake material the isolator. OBR and others have noticed that the softer plastic material is easily breakable due to many heat cycles on the plastic making it fragile which is how they crack or warp. By making the intake a solid mounting point and out or aluminum then you have less chance the plastic isolator which is still installed with the bolts going through it you have less chance of breaking parts of having the intake come loose. Check out the link I posted and you will see the difference in appropriate spacers, OBR spacer is much thicker to adequately insulate the carb.

http://www.oneillbrothers.com/rc-ca...20-billet-intake-manifold-fits-32cc-34cc.html

http://www.davesmotors.com/DDM-v2-Tall-Billet-Aluminum-Zenoah-G320RC-G320PUM-Insulator-Manifold.html
 
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