Am I the only one that busts rose joints?

MONAROMAN

Well-Known Member
Messages
485
Location
Sydney Australia
:helpsmilie: :helpsmilie: :helpsmilie: :helpsmilie: :helpsmilie: :helpsmilie: :helpsmilie: :helpsmilie: :helpsmilie: :helpsmilie: :helpsmilie: :helpsmilie:


I am getting MIGHTY frustrated with my racerunner, I cannot even get a tank out of it on a track before something gives and its nearly always a rose joint (or ball joint in FG language), is it just me? I do not jump it at all now and they STILL break. :no:

Maybe my geometry is out at the front but I have checked it in depth and can't see any issues. I've tried soft and stiff suspension and different mounting positions all to no avail. Maybe the long travel kit may help but for the price i need to know its gonna work or else I'm VERY close to parting ways with it.

A hinged setup that eliminates the joints would be wonderful if anyone with solidworks and a cnc wants to help me, I'm willing to pay and willing to be a guinea pig. Please help me fix this issue or the MCD is gooooooone.
 

ChickenLips

Well-Known Member
Messages
55
Location
Melbourne, Australia
I have read about this issue before, should be able to be done a better way.
I have had a look around for some metal ball joints, havn't found what i am looking for yet, if you mount the ball joint verticaly you change the geometry because it raises the pivot point, mount it horizontaly and you don't get the travel. I hear what your saying MM there has to be a better way. I might be able to help but it will have to after new year, so many projects going at once :)
 

COIL

Active Member
Messages
29
Location
brisbane
Man I Think You Vicko's Must Be Cursed(i Think Mono Had A Similar Problem),or Maybe I've Been Lucky For A Change,but Haven't Had A Breakage On The Baja 1000 Yet,and I Don't Pussy It Around Either,have Faith Man.
 

MONAROMAN

Well-Known Member
Messages
485
Location
Sydney Australia
Man I Think You Vicko's Must Be Cursed(i Think Mono Had A Similar Problem),or Maybe I've Been Lucky For A Change,but Haven't Had A Breakage On The Baja 1000 Yet,and I Don't Pussy It Around Either,have Faith Man.
:eek: victorian!!! Noooooooooooo! Proud cockroach here. :2guns:

Coil maybe the long travel on the baja front end helps

Chicken Lips - you da man, for the cash I've spent on this baby I can wait a few months to get it sorted, I'll just wrap her in cotton wool till then :clown:
 

monotheist

Well-Known Member
Messages
174
Location
Melbourne, Australia
Hey Monaro, yeah it as frustrating as hell when you cannot make it through a tank without dramas. Trust me I know all about it as well...lol.

Anyway regarding the rose joints which ones are you breaking, front or rear. If it's the rear you can add an additional tie rod to the back of the wheel hub to help relieve some of the stress but I bet its the front ones that are busting on you. If so there are a few options. I heard either the red or black joints (sorry cannot remember) are made from slightly stronger material so you might want to dig a little more on that but honestly I don't think that will really help ya as you seem to be having major issues with them.

I broke 2 on the front of mine until I built a front bar that helped protect the arms. What was happening to me was I was coming off a jump on an angle landing on one front wheel which couldn't handle the stress of 13+ kg's of weight bearing down on it snapping the rose joint on me.

IMG_1186.jpg



Now what happens is the front bar makes first contact with the ground absorbing the energy thus saving the joint from damage. Honestly haven't broken one since so I reckon this is your best option. Only problem is that you will have to make one as there not available as an option part which is rediculous I think considering the weight of the buggy. Mines made from a pipe joiner and the plastic used is tough yet really flexible so it will never snap on me. If your really stuck then let me know and I will make one for you....

IMG_1209.jpg

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Another option would be to replace the joints with steel FG ones but that will only transfer the energy to the arms which are harder and more expensive to replace. The rose joint is a fairly good idea as it acts as a fuse on severe impacts and are really quite easy and cheap to replace.

Anyway mate let me know how you go.
 

mylilmarder

Active Member
Messages
34
Location
Odenton Maryland
I know the frustration of not making it trought a tank with out brakeage. I keep having problems with my leo. I still have not used one take. My problems have been with the servos which usually result in damage of some kind to the car. I got all most all of the problems fix now and hope to get to use a full tank soon.
 

MONAROMAN

Well-Known Member
Messages
485
Location
Sydney Australia
mono its those darn front ones! I'll be doing the bumper trick for sure as mines a bit avg now from (ab)use. I had a PERFECT landing on a downramp (no flat landing) this weekend and still popped the lower joint holding the hubs on to the front arms (outer ones on the hub, not the ones that mount onto the chassis) but usually go through the ones you pictured (ahhh memories), I have tried FG ones in black plastic and the red ones but stopped short of fitting the steel ones as I may trash the arms instead.. which as you say is not a good idea.

HPI and FG are onto something with a hinged front setup (IMO) but I'll just have to try something else for now.
 

zouz10

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,493
Location
Florida
I've been trying to shop for some metal ones but cannot find any of that size! I heard FG makes them, maybe that might be the ticket!!
 
Messages
13
Location
isle of wight
Hi,

I've found the red King Cobra ball ends to be the best, only broken them after a crash. They just don't seem as brittle as Fg ones. I've not tried the KC black ones though.

As said metal ones will just transfer the stresses to the arms.
 
Messages
13
Location
isle of wight
Just to add, the only breakages I've had with the RR have been through crashing, and the maximum repair cost has been £12, great for bashing but when racing finishing a heat or more importantly a final, requires a car that is still drivable after a fairly non descrit "tumble", hence why an all alloy car is truly required (IMO).

I've been in two minds myself wether to keep my RR, the EVO is not a solution (again IMO) so MONAROMAN I understand your frustration.

But the main point for me is I want to race 4wd, and an all alloy MCD is my dream, I've read that alloy diff housings are being developed by a chap from Belgium (Marc Theys, whom I just got a set of lovely alloy plates from).

Alloy bottom arms should be fairly straightforwad to make, and using alloy balljoints alloy top arms, alloy hubs etc it could be done, but weight might be an issue.

Oh well, looks like an expensive winter project is on the cards.:)
 

MONAROMAN

Well-Known Member
Messages
485
Location
Sydney Australia
If an alloy front end is to be embarked upon, to me it makes sense to get rid of the dazzling array of rose joints and make a design that uses hinge pins, like the FG fronts and the HPI baja, both of which cop a beating from myself EVERY weekend and live to tell the story - they have a few breakages but nothing like my RR. The RR has been cheap to fix, don't get me wrong there but its just too frustrating and too heavy to keep carrying back to repair, it needs to be wrapped in cotton wool.

Maybe I'm expecting too much, the jumps aren't exactly scale but even a tumble will break stuff, and besides all the other brands handle the jumps with ease.

This where I usually bash and how I like to use my cars, maybe we get carried away a bit but I like to have fun with them :2guns:

My FG
Lots of Bajas

No MCD video yet as she won't stay running long enough :no:
 
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