HPI Baja 5b to 5t conversion build begins

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So while I'm waiting for the 24hr of DAYTONA to start this afternoon I figure it's time to start learning to fill and bleed my shocks. Their instructions say to fill to the top and then work the piston up and down to get the air out . To do a good job of bleeding you need to work the piston all the way to almost the top . I would have ended up with half the fluid running over the edge . So I dumped a third back into the bottle and worked the piston . Much better. Now I'm letting the front's sit for a bit . Then I'll work them again and then top them off before putting the caps on and bleeding them.fronts are bled . Had to use really long ty-wraps to hold the shocks compressed . What a pain in the arse . These Shocks you can't remove the lower spring mount without taking the whole shock apart . Would be real easy if I could remove the damn springs .
 

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Got the shocks mounted . Had to monkey with the front shocks a little bit . There is a little interference that I'm going to have to take care of . The springs slightly rub on 3 points in the upper A arm on both sides .

So I was kind of expecting the shocks to be a bit stiffer . With these shocks it seems the buggy is going to bottom out a lot more than the Rovan shocks allowed . I used 25 weight in the front and 35 weight in the rear .
 

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J
So while I'm waiting for the 24hr of DAYTONA to start this afternoon I figure it's time to start learning to fill and bleed my shocks. Their instructions say to fill to the top and then work the piston up and down to get the air out . To do a good job of bleeding you need to work the piston all the way to almost the top . I would have ended up with half the fluid running over the edge . So I dumped a third back into the bottle and worked the piston . Much better. Now I'm letting the front's sit for a bit . Then I'll work them again and then top them off before putting the caps on and bleeding them.
Cool. Hope
Got the shocks mounted . Had to monkey with the front shocks a little bit . There is a little interference that I'm going to have to take care of . The springs slightly rub on 3 points in the upper A arm on both sides .

So I was kind of expecting the shocks to be a bit stiffer . With these shocks it seems the buggy is going to bottom out a lot more than the Rovan shocks allowed . I used 25 weight in the front and 35 weight in the rear .
Looks badass! ?
 
So yesterday when I got home from work I spent my time taking care of the clearance issues I was having with the new front shocks . Think I got that taken care of.

So when I had installed the quick change diff and the new OBR engine I had noticed a gear mesh issue which I was having trouble figuring out where it was coming from. So I had picked up a Modifies RC rear chassis plate thinking the issue may have been the Rovan rear chassis plate.

Next was pulling the rearend off the buggy and taking everything off the rear plate. Started re-assembling the parts back onto the new rear plate . Parts seem to be mounting up better on the new plate which makes me very happy so far . So tomorrows task is re-mounting the engine and hopefully the gears will mesh correctly without being tight like it was with the Rovan plate.

And of corse it wouldn't be fun without have one of the diff mounting screw decide it wanted to become a flat head bit screw instead of an allen head . :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: Thank god for demel tools with cut off wheels .
 

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So yesterday when I got home from work I spent my time taking care of the clearance issues I was having with the new front shocks . Think I got that taken care of.

So when I had installed the quick change diff and the new OBR engine I had noticed a gear mesh issue which I was having trouble figuring out where it was coming from. So I had picked up a Modifies RC rear chassis plate thinking the issue may have been the Rovan rear chassis plate.

Next was pulling the rearend off the buggy and taking everything off the rear plate. Started re-assembling the parts back onto the new rear plate . Parts seem to be mounting up better on the new plate which makes me very happy so far . So tomorrows task is re-mounting the engine and hopefully the gears will mesh correctly without being tight like it was with the Rovan plate.

And of corse it wouldn't be fun without have one of the diff mounting screw decide it wanted to become a flat head bit screw instead of an allen head . :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: Thank god for demel tools with cut off wheels .
Damn u went all out! I'm alittle jello ?
 
The only thing turtlish about mine should hopefully only be the colors . :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: If it's slow I'll be really upset . :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO: I need to wear out these Duratrax Six pac rears so that I can put on these UberRC Viper Superspike rears. They look freaking nasty in a good way.
 
The gear mesh is to tight . When you go to put the spur gear on it's an interference fit . Some where it's off by about 1/32" if I had to guess . it's not much . Everything behind the engine dropped into place on the new bottom plate and the top plate actually fit better when putting it back on.

And the engine is dropping into place where it belongs also. The only think I can think is that the clutch bell carrier and Gear plate that Rovan uses is off a little bit .
 
The gear mesh is to tight . When you go to put the spur gear on it's an interference fit . Some where it's off by about 1/32" if I had to guess . it's not much . Everything behind the engine dropped into place on the new bottom plate and the top plate actually fit better when putting it back on.

And the engine is dropping into place where it belongs also. The only think I can think is that the clutch bell carrier and Gear plate that Rovan uses is off a little bit .
I'm thinking it's the carrier. Try taking the gear plate off and mount the spur gear and see if that's the problem
 
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