At My Wits End Over Stripped Screw Holes!

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Harold Bascom

Well-Known Member
Messages
293
I bought a new brake bearing carrier for my Rovan Baja 5b, and in order to install it, I had to take off a plate held-in by metal in metal screws to access the stock bearing carrier. Out of three, 2 came out. The third? It won't budge and then the socket stripped out. Sigh...

Now I have 2 known alternatives: #1, get a Dremel type cutting wheel, make a groove, and fight it out with a regular screwdriver, or #2: Heat the seized-up screw, let the threadlock soften, and then see if it backs out.

Are there any other methods of loosening stripped bolt/screw heads? HELP!
 
ok so what tools are you using?? low quality or worn out tools can cause this too. i recommend you invest in sum ddm drivers, nice n high quality! but what i do is jam torx bit into the head (like doug said), or cut a slit into the head with a dremel so u can use a flat head,
 
ok so what tools are you using?? low quality or worn out tools can cause this too. i recommend you invest in sum ddm drivers, nice n high quality!
I HAVE a set of DDM drivers. Lol. The drivers held, but the screw socket didn't. But I'm sorry. I didnt ask for advice on the best quality drivers out there. I have good, solid tools already. Hope your response was not at attempt at condescension.
 
You can Dremel a slot in it with a cut off wheel ,then use a big flat head screw driver ,or you can drill the head with
the same size drill bit as the screw ,an take the head off ,then when you take the rest of the part off ,the threads
will be exposed ,then you can use vise grips to bite on the threads to get the rest of the screw out!
 
I HAVE a set of DDM drivers. Lol. The drivers held, but the screw socket didn't. But I'm sorry. I didnt ask for advice on the best quality drivers out there. I have good, solid tools already. Hope your response was not at attempt at condescension.
no no! didnt mean it to sound condescending!! alright soooo yeah, i jam a torx bit into the head, or dremel a slot into it as stated. some use easy outs but ive never used one.
 
You can Dremel a slot in it with a cut off wheel ,then use a big flat head screw driver ,or you can drill the head with
the same size drill bit as the screw ,an take the head off ,then when you take the rest of the part off ,the threads
will be exposed ,then you can use vise grips to bite on the threads to get the rest of the screw out!
I know of that bit of operation. Was hoping there was something less tedious. Thanks anyway.
I know of that bit of operation. Was hoping there was something less tedious. Thanks anyway.
Thanks, bro.
 
The screws have what you call a torqued pressure on them .some screws ,once you relieve that pressure by removing the
head ,it should come out easy with vise grips ,unless there was a loc-tite used on them!
 
The screws have what you call a torqued pressure on them .some screws ,once you relieve that pressure by removing the
head ,it should come out easy with vise grips ,unless there was a loc-tite used on them!
I drilled out the head of the screw, but the shaft is left threadlocked tight into the clutch bell carrier. I have to buy another. Another of the unit in the picture. 15686535440536219365698875349977.jpgThere's no way around it.
 
I drilled out the head of the screw, but the shaft is left threadlocked tight into the clutch bell carrier. I have to buy another. Another of the unit in the picture. View attachment 53290There's no way around it.

I believe that is the back gear cover screw ,I would just try slotting it with a Dremel or a hacksaw ,an heat it an use
a flat head screw driver on it ,if it puts a little cut groove in the mount ,then that is ok ,the cover will hide the groove!
 
I believe that is the back gear cover screw ,I would just try slotting it with a Dremel or a hacksaw ,an heat it an use
a flat head screw driver on it ,if it puts a little cut groove in the mount ,then that is ok ,the cover will hide the groove!
It's not the back gear cover screw. What the bolt I was fighting with was screwed into the unit the clutch bell is attached to. To fix that problem there are only 2 solutions: #1: drill out, retap, and use a new bolt, or , #2: buy a new clutch bell brace (in picture.) I just ordered a new one. Issue solved.
15686581309318454352801353600799.jpg
 
I too have stripped a few of the "Rovan" (China garbage) screws. Take a sharp center punch and make a punch mark on face of the screw near the outer edge. Angle the punch so as to hit the punch with a hammer and drive the screw counterclockwise and hopefully break it free. Don't be afraid to put some propane heat to the screw the Rovans use Loctite everywhere and the stuff is VERY tough to break free !
 
I too have stripped a few of the "Rovan" (China garbage) screws. Take a sharp center punch and make a punch mark on face of the screw near the outer edge. Angle the punch so as to hit the punch with a hammer and drive the screw counterclockwise and hopefully break it free. Don't be afraid to put some propane heat to the screw the Rovans use Loctite everywhere and the stuff is VERY tough to break free !
I already drilled out the head, though that ended badly: The shaft left in the hole called for it to be drilled out and tapped for a new screw. Too much work--plus I would have to buy the appropriate tap and drill set. So, I just ordered a new clutch brace. I WILL, however, use your methodology when it happens again. Thanks.
 
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I stopped using loctite ??? also have not lost screws?? or stripped heads?
Something to think about ??
I'm thinking; I'm thinking. It crossed my mind just today that I will either stop using Locktite or just a trace of it on screws/bolts in close proximity to the engine.
 
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