Bearings

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thunderchevyjs

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I'm about to place an order for the FastEddy bearings, did anyone have any luck finding a good replacement for the 22x10x7 bearing?
 
only if you want to pay $40 or more, I just ordered 2 redcat ones cos i have a wobbly one on my MT , I also have some sealed 22x10x6mm from my fg I'll try with a 1mm washer as a spacer...should work just fine.
 
Thanks Mooman, I was going to try the washer idea too. Do the stockers last very long or should I replace them as soon as I get the TT?
 
Mine only got wobbly cos the square that the brake rides on isn't running true and the grub screw kept coming loose allowing too much slop and it buggered the bearing. they should last a while if everything is running true.
 
I went looking for this thread to find the odd bearing size. I found a bearing supplier just across the boarder was able to hook me up with bulk odd size for a good price. I sent an email to them to check on the size and to contact rob and scott direct if he has them. so if you get an email from hill indutrial supply, you'll know why ;)
 
Hey guys....


I am a Mech Eng. for one of the worlds largest bearing companies. We do not sell too many miniature ball bearigs, but we do have some.......and im guessing some of these bearings on these 1/5 scale may not be in the miniature class. In any event, I would be glad to help some of you guys out if we have them in stock.


Can anyone give me a list of bearings that are on the rampage: If there is number on the bearing give that to me otherwise give me IDxODxW. Also let me know if they are sealed or shielded.


I will check to see what we have on hand...and take some from stock for Engineering Inspection ;)


on a side note...I always hear people talking about ceramic/silicon nitride bearings........don't waist your money.....the only advantage besides the minimal weight savings is that if you get water in the beairngs, the raceways will not rust as quickly because the balls being ceramic you will not get that rust spot where the balls are resting on the raceways. besides that....I cant think of one reason to have cerami for a car like this.


There are uses for ceramic bearings, but this would not be one of them.
 
Quote from androidx1 "on a side note...I always hear people talking about ceramic/silicon nitride bearings........don't waist your money.....the only advantage besides the minimal weight savings is that if you get water in the beairngs, the raceways will not rust as quickly because the balls being ceramic you will not get that rust spot where the balls are resting on the raceways. besides that....I cant think of one reason to have cerami for a car like this.


There are uses for ceramic bearings, but this would not be one of them."


I am not sure I feel the same way , the heat generated by these smaller bearings is torture on them and ceramics seem to handle this better.
 
I was refering more to the Chasis about the ceramic bearings being useless.


The Engine might be the only place that it might be helpful, but even in this situation, a heat stabalized bearing would be better served in this application if the temps are above 120C.


bearings are typically made of 52100 Steel hardened to the following:


Inner/outer ring = 59 ~ 65 HRC


Rolling Element = 62 ~ 67 HRC


They can operate in temps up to and a little higher than 120C.


I am guessing most or all of the engine components can not operate regularly at 120C so if there are bearing issues due to heat, it is likely that many other engine components are failing. Also, as you can see from the above, the ball is already the strongest component of a bearing. Typically the weak link in a bearing is the retainer and the inner ring. If Temp and lub are marginal, the retainer (if pressed steel)and inner ring are typically the first things to go. Retainer because its soft, and the inner ring because of its shape, has the highest contact stresses.


When you purchase a ceramic bearing it is typically only the rolling elements that are ceramic. some of the advantages of bearings with ceramic rolling elements:


1. Typically higher speeds are achievable (~30% higher than std bearing) because of the reduced rotating mass of the rolling elements. This is assuming you are also increasing the precision grade of the bearing.


2. Sometimes during a failure of a bearing, you get micro welding of the balls to the raceways, this would not happen with a bearing with a ceramic rolling elements, so the life to complete failure would be longer.


3. One of the biggest applications is in electric motors in situations where stray electric currents can transfer through the bearing. In this case, fluting (a pattern on the rolling surfaces caused by electric arcing) can occure. To avoid the fluting, ceramic rolling elements are used.
 
in my humble opinion, most of the failures of bearings in the engine are due to very very poor quality chinese bearings.........


There are only a handful of chinese bearing manufacturers that can make bearings. ONe of the big problems is Steel source. Most purchase steel from many different vendors making it impossible to control quality. One day the bearing they produce is ok, the next its a piece of #$%#. Ive been to China, and I have seen severa Chines and I have audited in detail several chinese bearing mfgs, good and bad, and I see what thier shortcommings are.


Replace some of those failed engine bearings with some bearings from some of the mainstreem companies (SKF, NSK, NTN, KOYO, etc) and you might be surprised at the improved performance.
 
bearings

Sprint 77 said:
I had the Fast Eddies in mine for a while saved them for a back up set . I am running ceramics in my truck now . Man are they fast !!!!
Click to expand...
hi ,sprint77, where did you buy the ceramics at ,:confused:i need some bearings bad?
 
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