bRIBEGuy's MCD XR5-Max: Past, Present, & Future...
- Thread starter bRIBEGuy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
I dealt with the seemingly never ending supply of spray grease for a handful of runs, before finally getting tired of detailing the car (and more annoyingly, the brakes) after every run. I tore apart the chassis for "my version" of a fix, and while I was at it, decided to tackle another "quirk" that had been bugging me... the Castle Creations 6.5mm connectors.
Now don't get me wrong, in function, the CC6.5's are great... I had no issues with them when the car was running. But, outside of that, they have 2 big flaws, IMO:
1. They are a non-polarized connector. This isn't the end of the world... but it is a bit terrifying and adds an extra layer of stress to plugging in your batteries. I had painted a series of red dots on one side of everything to act as a visual reminder of what goes where... but it was still a terribly stressful way to start any outing.
2. They are the TIGHTEST fitting connectors I have EVER used. Even with a dab of dielectric grease, they were virtually impossible to connect fully or pull apart by hand.
In an example of the WORST luck I have ever had, one of my PowerHD LiPo's puffed HARD after a run... and also had a weird "rattle" sound to it. After safely discharging it in salt water, the curiosity got the best of me, and I separated the (already slightly cracked) case. It would appear that the damaged cell was not the result of too much current draw, but instead it was physically damaged from a small jagged rock that had managed to fall into the case through the (small jagged rock sized) hole that the battery wires exit. Unlikely I could ever replicate that method failure...
Being a pack down did mean it was inadvertently "new battery day", and who am I too turn down a legitimate opportunity to upgrade? New 4S packs were ordered up (this time going up to 9000mah), and the switch was made to QS8 connectors. Since the car was getting torn down, it was perfect time to do the QS8 swap on the ESC as well, and to make up a new QS8 Y-Harness (and jumper for when I do bench tests with only 4S).
Now don't get me wrong, in function, the CC6.5's are great... I had no issues with them when the car was running. But, outside of that, they have 2 big flaws, IMO:
1. They are a non-polarized connector. This isn't the end of the world... but it is a bit terrifying and adds an extra layer of stress to plugging in your batteries. I had painted a series of red dots on one side of everything to act as a visual reminder of what goes where... but it was still a terribly stressful way to start any outing.
2. They are the TIGHTEST fitting connectors I have EVER used. Even with a dab of dielectric grease, they were virtually impossible to connect fully or pull apart by hand.
In an example of the WORST luck I have ever had, one of my PowerHD LiPo's puffed HARD after a run... and also had a weird "rattle" sound to it. After safely discharging it in salt water, the curiosity got the best of me, and I separated the (already slightly cracked) case. It would appear that the damaged cell was not the result of too much current draw, but instead it was physically damaged from a small jagged rock that had managed to fall into the case through the (small jagged rock sized) hole that the battery wires exit. Unlikely I could ever replicate that method failure...
Being a pack down did mean it was inadvertently "new battery day", and who am I too turn down a legitimate opportunity to upgrade? New 4S packs were ordered up (this time going up to 9000mah), and the switch was made to QS8 connectors. Since the car was getting torn down, it was perfect time to do the QS8 swap on the ESC as well, and to make up a new QS8 Y-Harness (and jumper for when I do bench tests with only 4S).
- Thread starter
- #43
Focusing back on the "internal lubrication applicators", I tore down the central driveline, cleaned everything up, and switched to a Lucas Red Tacky grease for the ball drives. I picked up some extra grease boots which can actually be stretched-to-fit over the center diff cups, and I opted to add zip ties to the small sides of all the boots.
Tony78
Member
- Messages
- 9
- Reaction score
- 25
the roll cage looks great in that color!I love how it looks with the Rally wheels/tires.
At this point, I was pretty stoked with the car...
- Thread starter
- #46
Well done mate! keep posting pics!
Thanks! I was feeling pretty good about the project up until I read your posts about your car!!!
the roll cage looks great in that color!
I'm happy with it. Seemed like a fun detail to add a bit of "pop".
- Thread starter
- #47
Back together with the QS8 plugs installed.
At this point I also opted to add a heat-sink (c/w dual fans) to the motor. It always had a tendency to run a bit hot, so it seemed like a smart idea. The heat-sink & fans actually made a world of difference in operating temps... and oddly, in noise... those cooling fans are LOUD!
At this point I also opted to add a heat-sink (c/w dual fans) to the motor. It always had a tendency to run a bit hot, so it seemed like a smart idea. The heat-sink & fans actually made a world of difference in operating temps... and oddly, in noise... those cooling fans are LOUD!
- Messages
- 218
- Reaction score
- 88
Awesome paint man!!!!I love how it looks with the Rally wheels/tires.
At this point, I was pretty stoked with the car...
- Thread starter
- #49
Thanx!!!
BashingBrian
Active Member
I've read your whole post from start to finish, very interesting read.!!
I am currently 2/3 way to finishing mine, I'm waiting on better weather for body painting duty ( I have a plan and color scheme )
I'm also going down the electric path of fun, and I'm very interested in your brake setup, I agree the easy way is let the motor brake the car, but where's the fun in that.!!
I too have a Futaba, mines the 7PXR and currently my brake is setup up on the big chrome button on the radio, so I can just tap the radio onto my chest/stomach, the only problem I've yet to figure out is the brake being applied, it's either on or off and I'd prefer a gradual brake not just 100% lock the car up..!! I've yet to finish the full electronics setup.
I need to understand your method better as it may help me, I was going to experiment with expo or brake curve so although I press one button the brake comes on gradually ramping up
Anyway back to your build, it's awesome.!! I also like the fact your doing a rally build rather than an on road style ( I must admit I did buy the rally tyres and road tyres when I bought mine as I couldn't decide what I wanted ) and I totally agree with you that MCD does some things very well and others they seem to be clueless..
Look forward to seeing more of your car..
I am currently 2/3 way to finishing mine, I'm waiting on better weather for body painting duty ( I have a plan and color scheme )
I'm also going down the electric path of fun, and I'm very interested in your brake setup, I agree the easy way is let the motor brake the car, but where's the fun in that.!!
I too have a Futaba, mines the 7PXR and currently my brake is setup up on the big chrome button on the radio, so I can just tap the radio onto my chest/stomach, the only problem I've yet to figure out is the brake being applied, it's either on or off and I'd prefer a gradual brake not just 100% lock the car up..!! I've yet to finish the full electronics setup.
I need to understand your method better as it may help me, I was going to experiment with expo or brake curve so although I press one button the brake comes on gradually ramping up
Anyway back to your build, it's awesome.!! I also like the fact your doing a rally build rather than an on road style ( I must admit I did buy the rally tyres and road tyres when I bought mine as I couldn't decide what I wanted ) and I totally agree with you that MCD does some things very well and others they seem to be clueless..
Look forward to seeing more of your car..
- Thread starter
- #51
I too have a Futaba, mines the 7PXR and currently my brake is setup up on the big chrome button on the radio, so I can just tap the radio onto my chest/stomach, the only problem I've yet to figure out is the brake being applied, it's either on or off and I'd prefer a gradual brake not just 100% lock the car up..!! I've yet to finish the full electronics setup.
I need to understand your method better as it may help me, I was going to experiment with expo or brake curve so although I press one button the brake comes on gradually ramping up
Thanx for the kind words. I've since swapped from the 4PK to the 10PX... I just haven't caught up to that point in my write up yet! Still working through the "Past" portion of the car.... the "Present" and "Future" will be much more interesting (hopefully).
It sounds like you have your brakes set up opposite to mine... I don't activate the brakes with a switch, I override them with one.
In normal driving, the mechanical brakes are activated by pushing on the throttle trigger, just like they would be if I was using the motor braking from the ESC (which I have disabled), or just as it would be in a gas model. The ESC won't allow the motor to reverse until it has stopped spinning and you have returned the trigger to neutral, so this is where my programming to a switch come in (that in turn disables the brake servo, allowing for reverse to function).
I probably should just sit down and write up a tutorial on how I made it work... I have had a few people ask about it over time (and even more oddly, a number of people tell me it's not possible.... ha ha ha).
- Thread starter
- #52
Up here in Canada we're still facing too much snow to drive, but that doesn't mean I can't post pictures of when I had it out last fall!
As mentioned in the previous post, I opted to upgrade the radio to a Futaba 10PX (sometime in 2024 or 2025?). I was finally running out of older Futaba FASST receivers, and I figured it was time to step up to something a bit more modern. Plus, in all transparency, I had a "non-large-scale" project that I was hoping to run with more then 4 channels... but that is another storey entirely.
This run had the street tires put back on... soft compound... which in a real world parking lot is enough grip to safely drive slowly.... but still easy enough to break loose to keep things spicy (intentionally or not!).
As mentioned in the previous post, I opted to upgrade the radio to a Futaba 10PX (sometime in 2024 or 2025?). I was finally running out of older Futaba FASST receivers, and I figured it was time to step up to something a bit more modern. Plus, in all transparency, I had a "non-large-scale" project that I was hoping to run with more then 4 channels... but that is another storey entirely.
This run had the street tires put back on... soft compound... which in a real world parking lot is enough grip to safely drive slowly.... but still easy enough to break loose to keep things spicy (intentionally or not!).
BashingBrian
Active Member
I eagerly wait for this..
I did loads of googling to try to work out brakes with electric and most people said it can't be done....
Critical Observer
New Member
- Messages
- 2
- Reaction score
- 2
Add me to the list of individuals eagerly waiting for this write up!
I should have been more active here in the off season because this drives me absolutely bonkers on mine.Focusing back on the "internal lubrication applicators", I tore down the central driveline, cleaned everything up, and switched to a Lucas Red Tacky grease for the ball drives. I picked up some extra grease boots which can actually be stretched-to-fit over the center diff cups, and I opted to add zip ties to the small sides of all the boots.