cat5-34cc race ported engine

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Draggline53

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378
Location
macomb mi
Hi guy's, does anyone have any info on the cat5-34cc race ported and modified stroker zenoah engine. Looks interesting however I can't find any reviews or videos that makes me leery! :rolleyes:
 
No I don't Owen one
But anything that they sell they stand behind and that is there house motor
Iv seen 28 and 30 run but not the 34 [emoji41][emoji469]
 
Well the 34 no matter who's it is will be killer off the bottom end
And the mods should help the top end
The cat5 should be a solid reliable motor if it's like there other mods
These motors have a problem they are ruff on pull starters the ropes and dogs in them
I will know more about them next week end
I will be at Largescalerc to race if the weather doesn't change my plans
It's 10 hour drive for me and I've already been once this year
So if you can hold off till then I'm sure someone will have one on the track
 
Draggline53 said:
Hi guy's, does anyone have any info on the cat5-34cc race ported and modified stroker zenoah engine. Looks interesting however I can't find any reviews or videos that makes me leery! :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

I have one on mcd w5 . I love it. the cat 5 I got from large scale. I alsow have 2 .34cc zenoa full mod by obr. The cat 5 had bad original spark plug, I replaced it. and it runs great. Now that I finished braking it , I started tuning it. I have two carbs: the stock(with the chock) and 990. On OBR I have 990. I had to send the OBR back, they rebuild it. It got baked inside, they do not know why, they just rebuild it for free . Also I ordered the second OBR .34cc as a spare. I run cat 5 now and it is so powerful. If I put a larger gear it will be even faster, but I prefer a faster acceleration .
 
Draggline53 said:
Have you had problems with your pull starter on w5 sct. Heard the ropes brakes...
Click to expand...
No. did not have a problem with the ropes. It is important not to pull the rope many times quikly. If you go on the OBR side , and look their engine tuning video. The explain what is the correct way to start. You have to slowly bring the piston to a position and then pul to start. And do it one pull at the time.
On the subject of the engines. I like them both. The OBR I was running with the 990 carb (no chock), and CAT 5 the one with the chock. It seams to me that 990 has more power. The problem is that I baked the OBR and I baked CAT 5 few days a go. I sent the OBR back and they rebuild it for me for free. I almost broke in this one already. The cat 5 is back at large scale rc. They will rebuild it this week. The OBR insists on using CASTOR927 at 32:1. Large scale rc insists on using KLOTZ at 25:1. After a long descotion with OBR they told me to use castor 927 at 28:1. I will have 2 separate canisters ,whith 2 different oils. CAT5 with KLOTZ and OBR CASTOR 927. Will see what happens. The biggest problem so far as see is that no one pays attention to a type driving. The ratio I think depends weather I bashing or driving on the trock(stop and go). OBR told me that that the cylinder was defective from the factory. But I baked the cat 5 also......(it took me a little longer thou) :(:mad::):):):)
 
The cat5 motor looks to be very competitive as 34 go
And if this is your first one just remember they like to be run rich especially if you run in a big open area like field or parking lot
If you on a budget a 32 and a Bart pipe is good to unless you race every weekend you won't see much difference
But in price [emoji87][emoji457][emoji469]
 
Sounds good what do you mean by bake motor? Did it over heat?
Like to see video of w5 running. Installing servos this week for my mcd rr5. Just ordered alloy gear carrier from Germany. Will b a bartolone pipe from LargeScaleRC. Good info on the cat 5!!!. Going to purchase w5 sct next month with the bartolone. Did you have to cut hole on the side to modify bart?
 
Draggline53 said:
Sounds good what do you mean by bake motor? Did it over heat?
Like to see video of w5 running. Installing servos this week for my mcd rr5. Just ordered alloy gear carrier from Germany. Will b a bartolone pipe from LargeScaleRC. Good info on the cat 5!!!. Going to purchase w5 sct next month with the bartolone. Did you have to cut hole on the side to modify bart?
Click to expand...

I meant that the piston melted . I also think that I accumulated a lot of grass, and it prevented a sufficient cooling. And I have barracuda pipe. Also if you get w5 , with the 34cc , you will need to shave the bottom of the clutch housing, on the side, so the rear brake plate does not heat it.
 
I had a Cat5 in my hand this past weekend at the Fall Brawl race, and I can tell you it is the highest compression engine that I know of on the market.
With that being said, the reason people are having the pull rope and starter pawl issue, is the technique they are using to pull the engines over.
This one will definitely require you to slowing pull until the pawl is fully engeged into the flywheel before pulling to attempt to start the engine.
If your chose not to do this, the Extremely high compression will be a problem for your technique, and the combo will lead to broken pieces that could be avoided.
On the track they did extremely well.
Most tracks are made up of shorter straights & corners, and this is definitely where the higher compression helps out.
Big torque of out of the high compression Cat5 engine, and this allows quicker acceleration, and faster throttle response times when cornering.
I would Highly recommend this engine to anyone looking for Big torque, especially those who already tend to run a high octane racing fuel.

The one modification that I was made aware of by the builder of Cat5 engines, is that the extended stroke raises the piston in the cylinder.
Most add a gasket to allow for squish clearance in the top end, but not on these ...
The piston is actually machined to match the hemi combustion chamber, allowing for the higher compression, without changing port timing by adding base gasket thickness.

To me this is one cool addition, which is a signature of the Cat5 brand of engines.

Erutw5, I did not personally get to see your engine, but I do know it is being worked on, if not already finished. ;)
 
looker2756 said:
I had a Cat5 in my hand this past weekend at the Fall Brawl race, and I can tell you it is the highest compression engine that I know of on the market.
With that being said, the reason people are having the pull rope and starter pawl issue, is the technique they are using to pull the engines over.
This one will definitely require you to slowing pull until the pawl is fully engeged into the flywheel before pulling to attempt to start the engine.
If your chose not to do this, the Extremely high compression will be a problem for your technique, and the combo will lead to broken pieces that could be avoided.
On the track they did extremely well.
Most tracks are made up of shorter straights & corners, and this is definitely where the higher compression helps out.
Big torque of out of the high compression Cat5 engine, and this allows quicker acceleration, and faster throttle response times when cornering.
I would Highly recommend this engine to anyone looking for Big torque, especially those who already tend to run a high octane racing fuel.

The one modification that I was made aware of by the builder of Cat5 engines, is that the extended stroke raises the piston in the cylinder.
Most add a gasket to allow for squish clearance in the top end, but not on these ...
The piston is actually machined to match the hemi combustion chamber, allowing for the higher compression, without changing port timing by adding base gasket thickness.

To me this is one cool addition, which is a signature of the Cat5 brand of engines.

Erutw5, I did not personally get to see your engine, but I do know it is being worked on, if not already finished. ;)
Click to expand...

Yes ,it was done . And mailed to me. I keep killing the plugs. Today I cood not start the OBR .34cc. Changed the plug and it started without a problem. I keep changing this plugs . same was with cat5 until I started to lean. But I killed it. The tip of the plug looks black with a tiny tint of brown. After killing 2 engines I am afraid to run lean. So I run 990 at : L 1 1/8 and H 1 3/4.
 
I would adjust your low needle closer to 1 1/4 and adjust the idle if needed.
By keeping the high needle around the 1 5/8 mark you should always be safe.
1 3/4 on the high end is very possibly why you are fouling spark plugs.

I personally keep my engines usually within about 1/16 tune from 1 1/4 Low & 1 5/8 High, and have Never had a lean seize Ever.
Keep your oil mix at 25:1 which will be basically 5 oz of oil per gallon of fuel.

These engines do not require much tuning at all.
They are pretty much set it & forget it.

Always nice to have it a bit on the rich side, to keep safe from issues, if you question.
If the engine runs a bit strange when cool with a " normal " tune, run it until fully warm before judging.
Once the heat comes up in the engine, the engine will come around, and burn the fuel in a proper manner.

I have ran a Ton of engines in a Ton of different conditions, and I would have to say that the tune is very important, as well as keeping the air intakes, flywheel, & cooling fins free from debris.
With a " Normal " tune, clean cooling system, and proper fuel to oil mix, you should remain safe.
 
looker2756 said:
I would adjust your low needle closer to 1 1/4 and adjust the idle if needed.
By keeping the high needle around the 1 5/8 mark you should always be safe.
1 3/4 on the high end is very possibly why you are fouling spark plugs.

I personally keep my engines usually within about 1/16 tune from 1 1/4 Low & 1 5/8 High, and have Never had a lean seize Ever.
Keep your oil mix at 25:1 which will be basically 5 oz of oil per gallon of fuel.

These engines do not require much tuning at all.
They are pretty much set it & forget it.

Always nice to have it a bit on the rich side, to keep safe from issues, if you question.
If the engine runs a bit strange when cool with a " normal " tune, run it until fully warm before judging.
Once the heat comes up in the engine, the engine will come around, and burn the fuel in a proper manner.

I have ran a Ton of engines in a Ton of different conditions, and I would have to say that the tune is very important, as well as keeping the air intakes, flywheel, & cooling fins free from debris.
With a " Normal " tune, clean cooling system, and proper fuel to oil mix, you should remain safe.
Click to expand...

Thank you. It all makes sense . But I killed some plugs even being leaner. It seams that I am the only one with this problem. Could be the oil (castor 927). But OBR uses only this oil. And other people that use this oil , nobody has a problem. I will use Klotz oil for cat 5 and will see what happens. The thing is that if the engine does not get hot enough , the oil kills the plug. If it gets too hot I season the engine. :rolleyes::mad: Also, can the out of gas situation kill the plug? This is what happened last time.
 
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