Clutches

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Dreadnought

Well-Known Member
Messages
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I've been looking, at the various clutch options for the Zenoah engines more out of curiosity than anything but I cannot find any information about the pros and cons for the various types, is there an idiots guide anywhere?

Cheers
 
dougstar said:
First an for most? stay away from rovan/KM clutchs coz they Are ???
iv used zen clutchs with great results last ages?? what do you want out of a clutch ?‍♂️
Click to expand...
TBH, I'm happy with what I have, I'm just trying to learn the advantages and disadvantages of the various types, there must be a reason for the different types???
?????
 
Nope no idiots guide to clutches.?
I'll tackle this with the basics.
Clutch choice really depend on your usage and are a big part of tuning your rig.
Stock clutch (6000rpm) may be ok with stock rigs but when you start upgrading engine power,heavier/beefier parts and accessories - you'll find that stock clutch isn't up to the task or doesn't perform the same.
Upgrading specs will generally result in you purchasing a better rated clutch to handle the upgrades.
Low rpm (6k)clutches aren't good with heavier rigs because clutch engagement is too low and outside of the powerband causing slow speed starting, bogging and sluggish behavior.
You'll need a higher rpm clutch/spring to move the engine into its power band to get the vehicle moving.
(*You can buy just higher rpm springs to change that (7K - 10k)
Or you can buy a higher rated clutch with better materials,giving you a more reliable + stronger setup.
Word of mouth/Forums, can help lead you in the right direction to picking a good cluch.
it's also something that you'll have to learn for yourself as to what gives you the best drivability for you.

What you use your rig for will also determine what clutch is best,ie: bash/race.
Theres a lot of over complicated clutches and it's best to stay away unless you have a specific use case for them - racing generally..
Clutch issues: Heat/overheating,spring fatigue and clutch pad wear.
IE: 2,3,4 shoes + aluminum,carbon fiber pads ,thicker springs etc are just variations for strength,longevity and heat fatigue resistance/failure.

All those choices you see are just manufactures ways of addressing these issues,some are better then others

Zen clutches along with F&S clutches are great choices to start.
I switched to F&S clutches.
They are all metal,so you get less slippage and solid engagement.
(+ no clutch pads to wear down or dust.)
I recommend F&S for solid reliability and ease of use .

The higher end engines usually will have a list of reccomended clutches and other parts needed for reliability.

As I said this is a simple explanation of clutches,rewritten many times for length
 
Striikar said:
Nope no idiots guide to clutches.?
I'll tackle this with the basics.
Clutch choice really depend on your usage and are a big part of tuning your rig.
Stock clutch (6000rpm) may be ok with stock rigs but when you start upgrading engine power,heavier/beefier parts and accessories - you'll find that stock clutch isn't up to the task or doesn't perform the same.
Upgrading specs will generally result in you purchasing a better rated clutch to handle the upgrades.
Low rpm (6k)clutches aren't good with heavier rigs because clutch engagement is too low and outside of the powerband causing slow speed starting, bogging and sluggish behavior.
You'll need a higher rpm clutch/spring to move the engine into its power band to get the vehicle moving.
(*You can buy just higher rpm springs to change that (7K - 10k)
Or you can buy a higher rated clutch with better materials,giving you a more reliable + stronger setup.
Word of mouth/Forums, can help lead you in the right direction to picking a good cluch.
it's also something that you'll have to learn for yourself as to what gives you the best drivability for you.

What you use your rig for will also determine what clutch is best,ie: bash/race.
Theres a lot of over complicated clutches and it's best to stay away unless you have a specific use case for them - racing generally..
Clutch issues: Heat/overheating,spring fatigue and clutch pad wear.
IE: 2,3,4 shoes + aluminum,carbon fiber pads ,thicker springs etc are just variations for strength,longevity and heat fatigue resistance/failure.

All those choices you see are just manufactures ways of addressing these issues,some are better then others

Zen clutches along with F&S clutches are great choices to start.
I switched to F&S clutches.
They are all metal,so you get less slippage and solid engagement.
(+ no clutch pads to wear down or dust.)
I recommend F&S for solid reliability and ease of use .

The higher end engines usually will have a list of reccomended clutches and other parts needed for reliability.

As I said this is a simple explanation of clutches,rewritten many times for length
Click to expand...
Yeah makes sense, tuned low torque motor, higher rpm, needing to move the engagement to a higher rpm bite point to prevent bogging. Not to sure why any tuned buggy or car would get heavier as the game is all about power to weight ratios and at this scale any increase in weight is magnified and detrimental to performance.
 
Honestly , while i tend to rag on Rovan quality, the one dead reliable performer on my 5T has been the stock clutch. Crisp consistient engagement and locks up hard. I did drill extra cooling holes in the clutch bell, and i added a fan type clutch hub holder. I tend to think a lot of lack of performance clutch issues stem from excessive clutch heat buildup, not so much the "brand" of clutch used.
 
Heat kills everything.
With proper design and components,parts will last. Unfortunately everything is based on cost,the better quality it is - the more you pay. I'm sure everyone understands that part of the market(with a touch of greed & a captive audience thrown in?)prices can be high.
I've heard that Rovan clutches are decent for the most part,their drag racing clutches are very good.
 
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