Compression question

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I have a HY-32cc engine thats in a redcat Rampage MT wht compression should it have I am seeing 60PSI?
This is my stock Zenoah G320 with an appropriate small engine compression tester. Just for reference as I have no idea where other brands or even other Zenoah engines usually fall compression wise. I've only checked this one so far. IMG_20240415_131045454~2.webp
 
Greetings all: After 5 years of use it seems like my motor top end might be smoked. It"s a CY 23 in a FG Marder. I removed the engine to get a good look at it. I can spin the the flywheel with one finger. The engine spins all the way throught the compression stroke with almost no resistance.:( I was only getting about 60% or 70% power, which is what leads to to believe the ring or the cylinder is smoked. Anyway... I gues I'm just looking for someone to agree with my diagnosis. I can get a hold of a compresion tester l8tr this week if I need to. What number am I looking for? Guess I will go with a 35mm Big Bore kit. That should solve the problem:rolleyes:
definitely need a bore and new piston or new cylinder
 
This is my stock Zenoah G320 with an appropriate small engine compression tester. Just for reference as I have no idea where other brands or even other Zenoah engines usually fall compression wise. I've only checked this one so far. View attachment 107262
120psi is minimum for most of them, some will still "run" at 90 psi. Yours looks like a well run in one. Not unusual to see 200+psi on a stock engine.
 
120psi is minimum for most of them, some will still "run" at 90 psi. Yours looks like a well run in one. Not unusual to see 200+psi on a stock engine.
Pretty much the same as a saw or any hand held ope. I've had vintage saws run at 100 psi but they don't cut well.

Remember our friendly break-in debate somewhereon here? That engine was broken in with the heat cycling method I described and use. At the very least, it certainly didn't hinder its performance and I will continue to do that process.
 
Pretty much the same as a saw or any hand held ope. I've had vintage saws run at 100 psi but they don't cut well.

Remember our friendly break-in debate somewhereon here? That engine was broken in with the heat cycling method I described and use. At the very least, it certainly didn't hinder its performance and I will continue to do that process.
I just run mine and get the same results. Only thing I worry about "break in" is ringless engines.
 
I just run mine and get the same results. Only thing I worry about "break in" is ringless engines.
I have no doubt you can get the same results. My point was, having been told that heat cycling is detrimental to performance because the rings never properly seat, is that it's false. At least if using full mineral oil to do the process I do. There's more than one way to skin a cat so to speak.
 
I have no doubt you can get the same results. My point was, having been told that heat cycling is detrimental to performance because the rings never properly seat, is that it's false. At least if using full mineral oil to do the process I do. There's more than one way to skin a cat so to speak.
Not detrimental, just no point in it. Doesn't help a thing and based on myth..
 
You don't bore and hone nikasil plated cylinders, and most chrome lined cylinders are too thin to hone with out risking breaking through the plating. New ring (s) or new top end....
that is tru but you could bore and sleeve but thats more expensive then a top end i forgot there nickle plated
 
that is tru but you could bore and sleeve but thats more expensive then a top end i forgot there nickle plated
Impractical on small cylinders for years now. The few companies that did offer such services have basically ceased working in anything under a certain bore size. Cost factor alone, you'll have 4-5 times the cost of a new cylinder just haveing the old cylinder bored out, let alone getting a liner installed and port matched.
 
Impractical on small cylinders for years now. The few companies that did offer such services have basically ceased working in anything under a certain bore size. Cost factor alone, you'll have 4-5 times the cost of a new cylinder just haveing the old cylinder bored out, let alone getting a liner installed and port matched.
pretty much bikes are where it becomes cheaper these engines are just so cheap
 
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