DBXL 2.0 Converting to 2WD?

[tizdaz]

hi guys, what's the best method to converting my dibby 2.0 to rear wheel drive only?

I much prefer 2WD but also like the dibby and don't want to shell out for another RC after al the time/effort I've put into this dibby!

so looking for a good solution, I was thinking removing the front diff/drive shafts etc?

any info much appreciated! also how reliable would it be, would make the drive train much weaker converting to 2WD?

cheers!

 

[spents]

you will need a centre diff locker fella ,fit the locker then remove the front centre shaft
separate the front drive shafts and remove the shafts, remove the front diff and case,
removing the front drive parts will make it lighter

 

[cmbscx10]

IMO for sake of time and $$ just disconnect the center shaft and run it. While it won't be a true 2wd it will give you an idea if you want to spend time and $$ to make it a true 2WD

 

[Dirty30J]

Why though? Wouldn’t that just destroy your drivetrain?

 

[tizdaz]

Why though? Wouldn’t that just destroy your drivetrain?

How? Thats why im asking if there is any reason not to convert it, how would it damage the drivetrain? Or more to the point, if i was to convert it, how would i prevent damage to drivetrain?

 

[bigblockjoe]

I know the Racing guys sometimes convert the 5ive to Rwd by:

• doing a center locker or earplug the stock one
• removing the front main driveshaft
• removing the front gears and diff
• removing the front driveshafts, but leaving the end piece in place to hold the wheel/bearings.

This would not damage anything, and be reversible.

4x4 in loose dirt (not a prepped track), will give you 2x the go, 2x the stop, and will "pull" the front end around... look at Rally in the 80's when they introduced Audi quattro... maybe your chasing a different issue? I did a custom 8mm Carbon fiber chassis on my DBXL-E and it was SIGNIFICANTLY better everywhere. The DBXL chassis flex like crazy, and "spring" the steering and suspension around making it drive terrible. As a test, zip tie something between your tower braces and give it a try...

 

[jeepfreak1972]

How? Thats why im asking if there is any reason not to convert it, how would it damage the drivetrain? Or more to the point, if i was to convert it, how would i prevent damage to drivetrain?

If it were me, id do the center locker, remove the front drive shaft and the axle shafts to the front wheels. Id leave the diff in the front to keep debris out of the diff case in the event you want 4x4 back. Unless you are worried about every last ounce of weight, the front diff just hanging around in the front case will be unnoticed.

 

[tizdaz]

thanks for info guys

main reason why I want to convert is like I say above, I've always had 2WD, this dibby is my first 4WD largescale as I wanted to try it, I'm a basher not a racer so for me 2WD is much more fun.

the other reason, is as some of you know, my dibby has been struggling with low end / torque power, this is down to the weight & the 4WD is just too much for the engine, I've tried different engines (Stock/ESP Race Ported & now the Taylor 35 Reed V2) along with different gearing & even different pipes (Olimat / Bartelone).

I could convert it all back to stock plastic mostly, but I don't want to as I do prefer the alloy & before anyone jumps in screaming that alloy is bad! all my rigs have always been mostly hopped up with alloy, for me its a big part of the hobby as I like to customize. Its just with this dibby being 4WD its just too much weight for the engine to be driving all 4 wheels. If I had a 5T I prob would have just got a taylor 46GT etc from the get go, but the dibby 2.0 can only fit small bore engines and the 35 reed afaik is the most powerful that can be strapped to the chassis? And i really like the look of the dibby 2.0 shell.

I'm pretty confident that once I convert it to 2WD the power wont be an issue especially with the Taylor 35 V2 reed. If my FG which has a stock zen 29+ tuned pipe could run my full alloy mb with no issues with more than enough torque, then I'm sure this will be fine once converted to 2WD & like I say, I much prefer the characteristics of 2WD for bashing especially

So what diff locker is it i need? just one for the 5T or does it have to be DBXL 2.0 specific ?

i just found this https://www.dgiracing.com/locker-differential-for-dbxl-dbxl-2-0-dbxle-dbxle-2-0-mtxl/ ?

Thanks again guys!

 

[Dirty30J]

How? Thats why im asking if there is any reason not to convert it, how would it damage the drivetrain? Or more to the point, if i was to convert it, how would i prevent damage to drivetrain?

Because all of the power now goes to center and rear diffs, shafts, and what not, instead of being dispersed between all available drivetrain components. Idk man, I don’t have one so can’t say, you do you boo. Don’t let me stop you.

 

[tizdaz]

Because all of the power now goes to center and rear diffs, shafts, and what not, instead of being dispersed between all available drivetrain components. Idk man, I don’t have one so can’t say, you do you boo. Don’t let me stop you.

yeh I see what your saying, guess time will tell... will give it a go and see how it goes!

Worse scenario, I will need to beef up my shafts if they end up breaking, I had planned to swap to Vitavon anyway, but not unless I need to as they aint cheap lol.

IMO for sake of time and $$ just disconnect the center shaft and run it. While it won't be a true 2wd it will give you an idea if you want to spend time and $$ to make it a true 2WD

i was thinking this but then if I do it this way (even just to test) it wont work properly as the centre diff will still be trying to drive the front shaft so the rear will be losing power still so it wont really give me a true test as it will prob still lack power as no diff locker?



ok so had more of a browse, im guessing its this that i need:

https://www.taylorrc.co.uk/product-page/vertigo-losi-dbxl-mtxl-monster-locker

I assume this will also fit the 2.0 ?

 

[spents]

yeh I see what your saying, guess time will tell... will give it a go and see how it goes!

Worse scenario, I will need to beef up my shafts if they end up breaking, I had planned to swap to Vitavon anyway, but not unless I need to as they aint cheap lol.

i was thinking this but then if I do it this way (even just to test) it wont work properly as the centre diff will still be trying to drive the front shaft so the rear will be losing power still so it wont really give me a true test as it will prob still lack power as no diff locker?



ok so had more of a browse, im guessing its this that i need:

https://www.taylorrc.co.uk/product-page/vertigo-losi-dbxl-mtxl-monster-locker

I assume this will also fit the 2.0 ?

yes that locker fits all dbxl's tizdaz ,

and yeh the wear rate and risk of breakage will increase on the rear end drive parts,

 

[tizdaz]

yes that locker fits all dbxl's tizdaz ,

and yeh the wear rate and risk of breakage will increase on the rear end drive parts,

Cool thanks buddy! Whats a good hopup for rear drive train? I know vitavon do the cvd but what about the drive shafts? For now i will test it with just diff locker etc but in future i will prob upgrade the drive train especially if it has issues going 2wd.

 

[spents]

Cool thanks buddy! Whats a good hopup for rear drive train? I know vitavon do the cvd but what about the drive shafts? For now i will test it with just diff locker etc but in future i will prob upgrade the drive train especially if it has issues going 2wd.

i honestly have no idea whats available nowadays fella, there will be some upgrades around, but whenall said and done the dbxl is a slightly weaker platform,
what i mean by weaker is smaller drive pins, smaller shafts etc etc, same size pins as hpi baja but smaller than losi 5ive and vekta etc,
so you will break stuff on the driveline at times, best bet is run it as 2wd and see what breaks, then find some upgrades if they're available

 

[tizdaz]

i honestly have no idea whats available nowadays fella, there will be some upgrades around, but whenall said and done the dbxl is a slightly weaker platform,
what i mean by weaker is smaller drive pins, smaller shafts etc etc, same size pins as hpi baja but smaller than losi 5ive and vekta etc,
so you will break stuff on the driveline at times, best bet is run it as 2wd and see what breaks, then find some upgrades if they're available

the 2.0 has same size pins/shafts as the 5T, its one of things that was beefed up in the 2.0 afaik?

I've ordered that diff locker! ..so will fit that and see how it goes like you say and take it from there!

Just wondering, my FG has an adj. diff which can be set to full lock, which is what i have it on as it drives much better, how would a locked diff be for both the rear & center diff so they are both locked or is that a bad idea?

 

[spents]

the 2.0 has same size pins/shafts as the 5T, its one of things that was beefed up in the 2.0 afaik?

I've ordered that diff locker! ..so will fit that and see how it goes like you say and take it from there!

Just wondering, my FG has an adj. diff which can be set to full lock, which is what i have it on as it drives much better, how would a locked diff be for both the rear & center diff so they are both locked or is that a bad idea?

ah right fella, thats a better going on with the larger pins then ,

i would run say 60k oil/fluid in the rear diff and see how you like it tizdaz, see how it handles and whether it spins up the inner wheel easy then go from there ,
fully locked will give you oversteer when you lift off the throttle, plus increased stress through the rear drive,
run it and dial it in to your own reference as ya go i say

 

[tizdaz]

ah right fella, thats a better going on with the larger pins then ,

i would run say 60k oil/fluid in the rear diff and see how you like it tizdaz, see how it handles and whether it spins up the inner wheel easy then go from there ,
fully locked will give you oversteer when you lift off the throttle, plus increased stress through the rear drive,
run it and dial it in to your own reference as ya go i say

yeh was wondering what to throw in the rear diff, at present it has 100k so i may leave that in for now just to see how it is, i had 100k front & rear and had 500k canter, obv the canter & front diff is no more!!

 

[jeepfreak1972]

yeh was wondering what to throw in the rear diff, at present it has 100k so i may leave that in for now just to see how it is, i had 100k front & rear and had 500k canter, obv the canter & front diff is no more!!

I'm currently running 500,000 in the rear and locked center / team chase torque dampener on my TLR 5ive B. I believe only 1000 up front. I realize its still 4x4 but I'm not getting one wheel spin outs on the inside tires in hard throttle on turns. It will do doughnuts in grass pretty easy with stock tires.

When I get a Vesla, I'll run 500,000 or 1,000,000 in the rear. It's going to be a sand toy.