DDM Dominator V2 pipe install on a Rovan truck

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Polar_Bus

Well-Known Member
Messages
754
Well, I thought this pipe install was going to be easy, and oh my head what a ROYAL PIA to get this pipe to fit ! For whatever reason the pipe bracket was too high to be able to clamp to the lower chassis tab at the rear. I don't know why my bracket was so far off, all the vids I watched the install was pretty easy. I'm wondering if my CY 36cc engine has a higher exhaust port outlet. Anyway, enough ranting, here's how I got it to fit.

The 1st problem was my pipe mount bracket directly hit against the LH rear sway bar bracket. This was aggravating as I didn't know how I was going to get around this interference as there is not much wiggle room for alternate pipe mounting options. After about an hour of mulling over options, I was almost ready to ditch the rear sway bar and just run a front. Then I got an idea to see if I could flip the rear sway bar mounts upside down. This worked excellent ! With the mounts reversed it moves the sway bar up higher just enough to give me room to push the pipe a bit more forwards and now it fits better (still, a VERY tight fit).



Next issue is the bracket is still to high. I'm going to need to make a custom mount spacer. Again this is a very tight fit and the spacer bracket needs to be perfect. The rear bumper cage assembly is SO close to the pipe. I fabbed an aluminum spacer and used a thick plastic collar to absorb some vibrations. The DDM pipe uses a male / female slip joint that's held by a spring. I had to modify the rear bumper cage on the LH side to gain some needed clearance:



Next I needed to fit the spacer. I used the M5 countersunk screw supplied by DDM to secure up through the bottom, had to cut about 1/4" off the length of the bolt:



Lastly I had to modify the top LH roll bar tube to gain some needed clearance :



Finally finished. This was another all day ordeal. Seems EVERYTHING I get my hands on doesn't fit, or is just wrong, and it's getting on my nerves bad. But, behold a nice fitting pipe that makes killer power and won't be super loud. Very happy with the quality of the DDM pipes, very beefy and excellent craftsmanship:



 
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Well, I thought this pipe install was going to be easy, and oh my head what a ROYAL PIA to get this pipe to fit ! For whatever reason the pipe bracket was too high to be able to clamp to the lower chassis tab at the rear. I don't know why my bracket was so far off, all the vids I watched the install was pretty easy. I'm wondering if my CY 36cc engine has a higher exhaust port outlet. Anyway, enough ranting, here's how I got it to fit.

The 1st problem was my pipe mount bracket directly hit against the LH rear sway bar bracket. This was aggravating as I didn't know how I was going to get around this interference as there is not much wiggle room for alternate pipe mounting options. After about an hour of mulling over options, I was almost ready to ditch the rear sway bar and just run a front. Then I got an idea to see if I could flip the rear sway bar mounts upside down. This worked excellent ! With the mounts reversed it moves the sway bar up higher just enough to give me room to push the pipe a bit more forwards and now it fits better (still, a VERY tight fit).



Next issue is the bracket is still to high. I'm going to need to make a custom mount spacer. Again this is a very tight fit and the spacer bracket needs to be perfect. The rear bumper cage assembly is SO close to the pipe. I fabbed an aluminum spacer and used a thick plastic collar to absorb some vibrations. The DDM pipe uses a male / female slip joint that's held by a spring. I had to modify the rear bumper cage on the LH side to gain some needed clearance:



Next I needed to fit the spacer. I used the M5 countersunk screw supplied by DDM to secure up through the bottom, had to cut about 1/4" off the length of the bolt:



Lastly I had to modify the top LH roll bar tube to gain some needed clearance :



Finally finished. This was another all day ordeal. Seems EVERYTHING I get my hands on doesn't fit, or is just wrong, and it's getting on my nerves bad. But, behold a nice fitting pipe that makes killer power and won't be super loud. Very happy with the quality of the DDO pipes, very beefy and excellent craftsmanship:



Sorry about that. Just the name of the game with rovan/km clones sadly.
 
Interesting . On my Rovan BAJA the bracket was pretty much spot on .The DDM Dominatorv2 came with a 1/4" rubber washer that fit right between the brackets .
I do agree with you though. Everything none Rovan is just a little bit off when you go to mount them on the Rovan. All the aftermarket is based on HPI BAJA for mine . Rovan did a poor job of tolerencing or measuring or both when they copied the HPI's.
 
My guess is it's not the pipe, i think it's the engine and the location of the exhaust port, maybe on the smaller engines the port sits lower. I also know that I ordered a crank seal kit for 23-30.5cc engines and the clutch side seal is wrong for my CY 36cc. My seal is about 5mm larger on the od, and my seal is thinner by 3mm. I ordered seals for the Zenoah 38cc engine and that looks more like the seal I need. I also noticed Rovan uses a "hex " type drive for the clutch pinion gear. HPI uses a slotted configuration. I ordered a higher speed gear set off Ebay, and what a surprise it doesn't fit the Rovan as it's the HPI slot based pinion. :rolleyes:
 
lol...that dreaded lower bolt/spacer malarkey.....:rolleyes:…….yep a right royal pian in the ass it is..:mad:…gota do mine when i redo the rear chassis plate.......really looking forward it......NOT!!
 
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My guess is it's not the pipe, i think it's the engine and the location of the exhaust port, maybe on the smaller engines the port sits lower. I also know that I ordered a crank seal kit for 23-30.5cc engines and the clutch side seal is wrong for my CY 36cc. My seal is about 5mm larger on the od, and my seal is thinner by 3mm. I ordered seals for the Zenoah 38cc engine and that looks more like the seal I need. I also noticed Rovan uses a "hex " type drive for the clutch pinion gear. HPI uses a slotted configuration. I ordered a higher speed gear set off Ebay, and what a surprise it doesn't fit the Rovan as it's the HPI slot based pinion. :rolleyes:

Honestly don't know, my BAJA had a 36cc Rovan engine in it . I've since swapped over to my OBR 34cc.. What engine do you have in the truck? Um I think the Rovan engines are clones of the Zenoah's not a CY .
 
It's the pipes☹...as I've had my domv2 on a cy26....and sf g32 and it was exactly the same on both?..needs a big ass spacer to mount up :rolleyes:
Ahh..jus read its a bigger engine u got. ?...either way there a crap fit imo?
 
Meh, it's all water under the bridge. At least I can say if I experience a high speed barrel roll roof auger the pipe will probably snap off the whole cylinder clean off the cases from being so tough, LOL i'm not kidding compared to the stock Rovan pipe (which actually is a very nicely made pipe, just feels of very thin gauge metal)
 
Thinking out loud, i wonder if i flip the exhaust manifold 180 degrees , if this will allow the pipe to pitch downward and the bracket might line up closer to the chassis mount ? Ill have to try this.
 
No we are talking hypothetically here . If you cut the weld at the head manifold you don't need to cut it completeley off if you cut from the right direction you can leave it attached slightly . Then slightly bend the manifold and then re-weld it .
why tho? your still re welding it, why does it matter that little 2mm you don't have to re weld?
i mean u have much more experience than me so
 
What I described wouldn't be that hard to do . Or it could be done the way you describe also. Me I wouldn't want to deal with the rust in the middle of the pipe later on. It would probably still rust where I would do it to but it wouldn't be seen as easily. Pretty sure the DDM V2 is just chrome plated steel .
 
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