DBXL 2.0 Diff fluids

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Shoppingcart111

Shoppingcart111

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New to the forums and need some help. DBXL 2.0 gas buggy. I run either JConcepts choppers or Proline Mashers. We race on a clay track and i found the choppers still didn't bite as good when dry so went to the mashers. Stock clutch spring and gearing. For diff fluids (All TLR wt fluids) I was running 100k c, 50K f and 30K r. Things seemed ok.

I had switched to a 19T pinon and 8K clutch spring(complete new clutch) for the mashers and then switched the diff fluids to 500k c, 100k f, and 50k r. after a race last weekend the first qual seemed good then the second qual it felt like the clutch was slipping but kept running and then before the race it didn't feel good, started the race but after the first lap it was apparent that something wasn't right and pulled out the race, went back to the pits and found the center diff leaking fluid and the rear seemed to be skipping.

Once at home and tore everything apart, the center diff was destroyed, basically it tried to spin the spider gears inside the housing, and the rear diff, it cracked the outer case so the ring and pinon were all stripped, and the front it looks like there's more ware on the ring/pinon. So long story short it was around 400 in repairs. New center diff housing(alloy) and gears, new front and rear ring/pinons and then some hop up parts in while its apart.

So after all that my question is what the magical mc f$%k happened? hahahaha. I'm thinking it was the thinker diff fluids that killed it, basically acted like a locker and that didn't like the race conditions. I read that lots of guys run 500k in the center with no problems.
Im thinking of going back to the stock clutch spring(lower so im not wringing out the motor) sticking with the 19t pinon and stock spur, and back to 100k C fluid and maybe the 50k/30k F/R for the diff fluids.

What's everyone's opinions? Sorry for the long rant but i cant have this kind of damage again as i cant keep dumping money into it for repairs. Mods is a different story.
 
Is center diff plastic. I replaced all diffs in dblxe 2.0 with Vitavon housing, gears, whole 9 yards. Otherwise it ate diffs , constantly. The plastic diffs don't have the metal ""squares "" holding spider gears . I also ran 1 million diff oil in all 3 diffs. Yes I realize you're running gas but I would think they are similar. I did sell buggy because I was sick of battery battles and should have got gas powered one but after upgrading drive train it was a blast.
 
Mick Mars said:
Is center diff plastic. I replaced all diffs in dblxe 2.0 with Vitavon housing, gears, whole 9 yards. Otherwise it ate diffs , constantly. The plastic diffs don't have the metal ""squares "" holding spider gears . I also ran 1 million diff oil in all 3 diffs. Yes I realize you're running gas but I would think they are similar. I did sell buggy because I was sick of battery battles and should have got gas powered one but after upgrading drive train it was a blast.
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All the diff housings are plastic atm but i ordered a GTB alloy one for the center to replace the destroyed one. I think it was the 500k fluid that killed it as it acted as a locker, i think the electric guys get away with the really thick fluid as they have a lot more torque then the gas model but i could be wrong. Plus racing is different animal then bashing or running back and fourth on grass. I think i need more of an open diff for racing then a locked diff for bashing or just regular ripping. But then again i have no idea, looking for ideas as i cant have another catastrophic failure like i did.
 
I really think it's diff housings if they are losi plastic ones. You will see how spider gears are just held in slots in plastic. Most other diffs even if plastic use a metal square to hold spider gears. Got some pictures of my dbxle on a thread if you care to look. Literally broke a diff every run before upgrades.... Just went back and looked, no real good pics of damaged housings but I think your metal ones are the way to solve the issue.
 
What your saying makes sense. But i ran for a while with everything stock with the lower diff fluid weights and i had no issues. It wasn't until i changed the clutch pinon to a smaller one for the bigger wheels (Proline Mashers) and changed all the diff fluids to thicker weights then everything went south. So i don't know if its the small pinon (cant see that causing the diff to explode) but more the thicker diff fluids which made it act like a locker and the racing environment and jumps which cause the issue.
 
Absolutely part of the issue . Was running stock wheels until first rear diff blew but after installing badlands things got worse. Traction increases partly responsible for issues. Also on power landing off jumps.....
 
Mick Mars said:
Absolutely part of the issue . Was running stock wheels until first rear diff blew but after installing badlands things got worse. Traction increases partly responsible for issues. Also on power landing off jumps.....
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Traction makes sense as well , didn't really think of that although I should have.
Lets face it , there is always going to be a weak link. It starts with right out of the box with most everything. It was boarderline to start with so any increase on strain and it starts. The first part breaks so what do we do , put on a stronger one. Next it is something else and now another stronger part ; wait for it , another one is coming.

I also think sometimes I might want a little weaker part ; maybe a broken plastic control arm torn off is better than chassis damage from a crash with a car with aluminum upgraded arms.
 
I wouldnt say your wrong. I was running JConcepts choppers before the mashers with no issues and tore the diffs apart while running them and didnt notice any wear or issues. I think it was the way thicker fluids that basically locked the center and as mentioned, jumping and landing under power etc lead to the failure. Im going to try alot thinner fluids this time so the diffs actually work like diffs as i had trouble turning as well so thinner all around should help. Just trying to judge how far to go down in viscosity.
We have another guy at the track that races the dbxl E with the same mashers and that thing hooks and rips, that where i got the idea for the mashers. He said his diffs are stock/fluids, he things 100k all around but not sure thats right out the box for them. But he did say he was going to drop the front fluid as hes having trouble turning as well.
 
Agree with all our thoughts on this. My experience playing with diff fluids has never really shown me a difference other than the thick stuff don't leak!!!!! Now playing with suspension settings has made night and day differences. This is one of the best things about the hobby , having the ability to expirament ,learn, and share ideas. Let us know how everything works out.
 
Mick Mars said:
Agree with all our thoughts on this. My experience playing with diff fluids has never really shown me a difference other than the thick stuff don't leak!!!!! Now playing with suspension settings has made night and day differences. This is one of the best things about the hobby , having the ability to expirament ,learn, and share ideas. Let us know how everything works out.
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Well that's a different thread but i will ask what you've found regarding suspension, what works/doesn't as that the next avenue I'm going down.
 
I just use the suggestions in the manuals for droop, caster ,camber, toe,etc. I like my trucks to come to a turn ,slam on brakes, turn wheels ,hit throttle and rotate. This is on my 5t 2.0 in particular. Set it up like that 4 years ago and haven't touched anything since. Losi manuals particular good at pointing you in right direction. The key is to make 1, ONE change at a time, keep record of what you change and always have a base setting to go back too. I ,being an old fart can't remember what I ate for breakfast can't remember exactly what I did, but don't be afraid to experiment or ask your friends at track. I don't have a track near me or anyone to run my trucks with except granddaughter but the folks on here are fantastic about helping. Almost forgot to mention, I believe I'm running 1 or 2 million diff oil in 5t and both raminators and 2 xmaxx trucks. Like I said, at least they never leak , other than that I never really noticed a difference.
 
I have a dbxl 2.0 with a ddm race ported 34 esp. I run 10k in front and 100k in center and rear. It turns as good as it can on stock tires. I run a very tight track with short approaches to jumps so im on throttle hard coming out of turns, i haven't launched a diff yet but i have replaced arms and spindles.
 
Flh003 said:
I have a dbxl 2.0 with a ddm race ported 34 esp. I run 10k in front and 100k in center and rear. It turns as good as it can on stock tires. I run a very tight track with short approaches to jumps so im on throttle hard coming out of turns, i haven't launched a diff yet but i have replaced arms and spindles.
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100k in the center and the rear? how did that make the rear act?
 
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