diff problems

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J

james22ca

Well-Known Member
Messages
65
Location
canada
I had the truck out for the first time today and already ran into some problems.

The truck would not move, sort of like the diff was blown.
I took the diff apart and it seemed ok.

Then it was in the car the diff ring would spin but it would not go anywhere.

The dogbones and cups are ok aswell.

Any ideas
 
i'll check the wheels

as for the grub screws, the diff ring gear was moving so I don't thing that that will be the problem.
 
If the diff / diff gear is moving then its got to be the wheels one is loose or grub screw on the axle the power is spinning something look at the drive shafts out of the diff the one that is moving is robbing you of power to move.
 
You blew a grub screw in you wheel square. If you take the truck and put it against a non moving object, give it gas and you will see all parts will be moving except the tire - its the square. Take the tire off back the grub out file it flat till the grub has no hole left and use blue locktight and screw it back in tight.
 
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Good job!
If you ever screw up the wheel square threads just drill and tap them out larger and you can even go non metric if you want. If you look in that photo of the square I had to after spinning the heck out of the grub and the grub chewing the threads. If that wont work don't go back to the FG aluminum ones go with the Duratrax FH ones they are steel and can be reefed on harder without stripping them out.:)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHTW3&P=PU
 
Another option is drill a bit bigger and tap the hole for helicoil insert. The helicoil insert is usually made out stainless steel...even much stronger.
I made a few sets of 9.5mm and 14mm square already...I come prepared for the Summer... You don't know how valuable Summer time is to us up here in the North Pole vicinity...
 
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Chop Suey said:
Another option is drill a bit bigger and tap the hole for helicoil insert. The helicoil insert is usually made out stainless steel...even much stronger.
I made a few sets of 9.5mm and 14mm square already...I come prepared for the Summer... You don't know how valuable Summer time is to us up here in the North Pole vicinity...
Click to expand...

So true!
You can never have enough parts.
 
What kind of grease/silicon are you guys running in the diff.

I had the truck out today and it was un-controlable, instant acceleration and instantly sideways. The heaviest stuff I had was 100,000wt diff fluid.
 
james22ca said:
What kind of grease/silicon are you guys running in the diff.

I had the truck out today and it was un-controlable, instant acceleration and instantly sideways. The heaviest stuff I had was 100,000wt diff fluid.
Click to expand...

Well the stock dif is not sealed unless you silicone it shut and that would be a chore in itself. You can use any high temp grease form the auto store. Higher temp the better. And as for the screaming tires and sliding, welcome to the big torque league! You will get use to the throttle after awhile.:)
 
I am rounding out the holes in the back wheels on the left rear lately. The engine will rev and the diff is spinning like nuts. I pull the left wheel off and there is a round hole in the wheel where it was square.

Elcon makes reinforcements for $25/pair but I'm going to try and do a home-brew reinforcement - I need a new RC project :)
 
If you have removed the rear wheels more then a couple times the plastic stop nut will wear out and will back off - Mine is the right side, but figures its the one that spins the correct way to spin it off, specially if its a worn nut. Change them often If you remove the wheels and that will minimized the back out. Sucks though I have the rounded one in the front now.:(
 
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