Difficult starting and inconsistent idel

[Roni92]

Thanks for info, so far 1.5 tanks so yeah i know its not broken in yet, hopefully it'll wake up a little more like u said.
I used that aftermarket intake from rovan you can see in one of my first posts here. I like it because it doesn't catch body like stock one when puttin it on and off, but main reason is that i calculated that this baja style filter have more than double(!!) surface area than the stock one and pre filter is super effective. buuuut......... i suspected still a little air leak between intake and carb, when i sprayed a little water on it, the rpms lowered and it sounded like she was about to die, but engine didn't show any signs of air intake and i was really tired with intake problems after many weeks of trying to fix that, so i just move on to driving it a little to break in. After taking the intake off i couild see wet spot on the most bottom 1/3 of gasket between carb and intake so i don't know, does that confirm slight intake leak? Again, engine ran perfectly fine and definitely not lean. Alll gaskets, engine and carb, all was new(other than intake).
So anyway now im back to stock filter and my saga to intake leaks continues
Im about to go out today and test that intake, if that b**** also will have wet gasket im getting back to gluing that s*** with silicone again, cuz like i said at this point im really frustrated with such stupid issues, which are really hard to fix well.
There really a lot of fugly practives in petrol rc market, like all those intake issues would not exist if they made proper mounting standard of 4 screws instead of 2. I mean any plastic intake mounted with only two screws will obviously not seal very well. But its just stupid industry standaard and you cant do anything to improve that other than just use silicone and glue it, which is obviously not ideal, and messy and dangerous work(use too much silicone and u risk that *** getting directly into engine...)
As for exhaust yes im aware theres potential for improvement here, for test i ran without muffler part of exhaust, and at first i was blown away because she accelerated much quicker, but after about 3 minutes it went back to normal, so i guess it was more of "cold engine power" thing more than less exhaust restriction. And was obviously obnoxiously loud, and i like that exhaust system style because with that big rear muffler its really quiet, well obviously relatively quiet, enough to drive without noise cancelling headphones.

 

[Bandit2013]

I see. I did try a Victory silenced exhaust on my Vekta KV5TT. Thought this would be an improvement. Not. I could not get the engine to tune properly to keep it from running lean. Did not matter how I adjusted the H/L needles. Yeah, this was with the Taylor 35 engine. The Victory exhaust was choking the engine too much. What a shame, that was a nice pipe. However, it did not fit with the body installed.




I had gone back to the Taylor exhaust. Also welded on a silencer that did not restrict the exhaust. Without the silencer, it was way too loud to run in my neighborhood let alone anywhere else there would be people. The Taylor exhaust was far better for the 35cc engine than the Victory pipe. Not sure what was going on with the victory pipe as it performed worse than the box exhaust that was a stock item on the original engine that came with the KV5TT. Also had the transmission geared for speed. The Taylor seemed to handle that but overall, the KV5TT was a pig and not much fun. After receiving the letter from Taylor RC to replace the thrust washers and add lock washers to the head bolts, I had to remove the engine to do this. After the fix, the engine wound up in a Baja as I enjoy them more. What the KV5TT needs is a bigger engine with more torque to overcome the mass of the vehicle. The Taylor 35 seemed to be enough but thought I would have more performance potential in the Baja with that engine.



Just for kicks, I bought a 30degree north 38cc engine to put in the KV5TT. Probably not a good move but will see how things turn out. The Taylor 35 has more power than the 30DN 38cc engine. Will have to change the gears back to stock to compensate. Matters not, as I am not fond of the KV5TT to start with. Should have bought the Raminator instead. I may try the 30DN with the Victory pipe just for kicks after I change the gears. If that works out, may keep it on the truck. Will have to trim the body cage as it does not fit properly. Not sure what I am going to do with the KV5TT. I keep thinking I can make it better but that may just be a pipe dream.

 

[Gav]

Hi,
this is 45cc dual ring POS rovan engine, it was difficult to start from the beggining, but now its even worse, usually need to lean out low half to one turn to start then get back to normal setting.
But thats one of smallest problems with it, recently it got no power, but not like bogging or anything it will reach max speed, but pretty slowly, engine have no torque at all, and idle behaves strangely: after driving the idle is unusually high, then after idling like this for about 10-20 seconds is getting lower to normal rpms.
I know its not mixture needles issue because was tinkering with them a lot and it doesn't help at all. Spark plug looks almost perfect (light brown with small amount of deposits).
I also don't have seal on the header-exhaust connection, because they are all melting almost immediately... I know not sealed exhaust might be part of the problem, but the thing is last time I was in gravel pit with this setup she run fine, at least as fine as you can expect from that pos engine, but at least it worked normally and accelerated decently.
I head idle issues can be cause by not tight intake, so I dissasembled it today but everything looked normal, I mean seal next to two screws was broken but only around screws, not where the actual air comes through.
I oiled them today with filter oil to help with sealing, and made sure pressure impulse opening thingy is clear and seal is not blocking it but it was fine anyway.
Also made sure that fuel lines are connected to proper spots in carb - the black one with filter goes into bottom and clear(yellow) is connected to upper thing, so ithinkg its proper.
Also this engine generates enormous amounts of heat, and head regularly run at 180*C but i heard this is how it is with those pos engines.
By some miracle it still hasnt seized in about 8 tanks of constant issues problem solving and overheating
Every time i go out with it im wondering if it will finally kill itself (and I think I subconsciously want that ).... hate it with passion.
After about 20-30mins of driving it loses almost all power and dies without throttle and will not start again the same day. At that point everything under body is so fuc**ng hot you can almost burn yourself even on chassis...., even plastics have 100*c.......(its why i don't want to put lipo in it, it will f***** explode from heat) Its like this every time. I think this engine have like 5% or less efficiency, all burned fuel is wasted into heat .
Its really strange because my bajas 29cc is the exact opposite, works perfectly with no issues from the begiining, vehy good power for the price, and always starts effortless with one pull, just loud as mofo.

How ya doin mate?
Honestly, Chinese are known for not cleaning , removing swarf etc during manufacturing process.
Pull off the carb and clean the filter and clean all the small orifice ,small fuel air ways.
I would be very surprised if this doesn't fix all your problems. Remember, overheating is a sign of lean fuel mix.
Best of luck, have fun, and remember, the Baja will always go faster after 3 or more beers