Failsafe's!?!?

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voo2doo

voo2doo

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Howdy people
Just want to hear your veiw's on what failsafe you use. I am running a GWS in the MT and a Mtroniks in the Marder/Beetle.Now my concerns are one works great the other is kak! Gws in the MT runs out of sight and works brilliant,the Mtroniks goes around 20 yards and packs in(failsafe returns throttle to brake setting).I tried new batteries in the tranny(Ooo-err!one for Bigger there:clown:he'll know what i mean) and have a 2400Mh in the car but still goes into failsafe mode at the above distance.I'm running the cars with power lines nearby and next to an industrial unit, I know what your thinking--interference--from the fore mentioned but if that were the case why does the GWS run ok?
I use different radios, JR XR3 FM 27Mhz(surface) in the marder with the Mtroniks and a Hitec ranger 3FM 40Mhz (air) in the MT with the GWS.Also my friend who has just bought a marder from fleebay got his Ansmann failsafe the other day and his is doing the same! I've also turned off the LVC on them both as I thought they might be giving premature cut-off but surley 2 cant be the same (one is brand new).
Any help folks would be appreciated.
J.
 
as you are considering going with the acoms 2.4ghz use the built in fail safe thats a feature of it, works very well
 
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the fail on the TX will not kill the engine....You still need a Modified Pico engine kill
switch......The TX failsafe will only make the throttle go to idle and apply the brake..
You still can have a runaway ant wide open throttle....Slawhammer
 
I've heard people having problems with the fail safes and our petrol motors interference. I would 2nd going to a 2.4ghz setup and getting a pico for extra safety. Most 2.4's come with a built in failsafe.
 
Cheers Carty,I didn't know the 2.4's were running a built in failsafe,so no need for one of them!
When I was looking at the kill-switch thread in RC Car Uni I noticed that the switches themselves were only relays and an LED attached!which someone was charging an arm and a leg for.Anyone with minimum mechanical and electrical skills can knock one of these up in an hour and for a couple of quid/bucks!After all if you don't have these skills why buy an FG/HPI/LAU...etc, at some time or other your going to have to strip,repair and replace parts on them!
So to round it off,thanks for the advice and help and have a go at building your own kill-switches.:clown:
J.
P.S.....Whats with Dan being banned???
 
I won't run without a picco. it covers you from a lot more than just radio loss... dead battery in radio or rc, stuck throttle linkage, stripped servo etc etc etc...it either kills the engine or you can kill it remotely (in case throttle gets stuck for mechanical failure say)
 
Voo2Doo..you do as you wish and use the TX fail safe....But when you have your first
run away with your RC Unit....You will remember the advice given about the picco
engine kill switch......Slawhammer
 
Had a runaway,not too good.i will use the TX failsafe but also build my own as I cannot justify spending £50 on something that costs pennies in parts.as said its only a glorified relay operating on a normally closed circuit thats held open by the batt and magneto plus remote shut-off via the 3rd channel.
J.
 
i use the onboard built into my React, and then i ll be getting either the Diemaster kill switch or the PB Kill switch 3rd chnl remote kill/failsafe.
 
I know when I got involved with western robotics and we were making failsafes, it was because I bought a gws fs2 and connected to my jr xr3 and it woudn't work, glitched etc. I took it back to the lhs and tested on a different radio and it was fine.... it bothered me.... we tested failsafes from every mfg with near every kind of servo and radio combination and compiled data from people around the world. then we made prototypes and sent themout to people for testing. the system now they sell is about 5th in production, using a smaller chip and data to make a failsafe that worked wth all radios


many fs were tested to also try and kill them connecting power backwards and such, and some brands had reverse polarity protection, others didn't. some would fail if you breath on them wrong, some were susceptable to noise in the system or around the system... you might be experiencing the same problem... change the failsafe arounbd between the 2 rc's and see..
 
Thanks for the info fellas,there are some rip-offs out there! $20 sounds too good to pass up.Ok ,convinced ,I'll send for one.
Cheers again.
J.
 
Voo2Doo...Good to hear on the Picco switch....
I have never gave any body wrong information when it come's to RC stuff...
This is a hobby to be shared by every one and helpful information for every one...
so on that note tell us ..when you got the switch and how it works for you....
Just trying to save you some dollars from repairs if you get a runaway....
Best to you.....Slawhammer.............
 
Will do Slaw,the last and only runaway cost a few bob to repair (wont go into the gory details) but it was really down to human error not mechanical/electrical.Had my battery unplugged on the car and set the throttle arm at near full tilt! pulled it, it started and roughly 20 seconds later,one kerb, a car and then a tree it came to an expensive halt!
But I still had one wheel left on the car(bonus!)
Cheers.
J.
 
voo2doo said:
Thanks for the info fellas,there are some rip-offs out there! $20 sounds too good to pass up.Ok ,convinced ,I'll send for one.
Cheers again.
J.
Click to expand...

Remember, you still need to modify that before it will work. From the sounds of your electrical back ground you probably already knew that.:blush:
 
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