FG Sportsline 4wd question

vin

New Member
Messages
1
Hey folks.
I recently started racing with 4wd FG Sportslines here on a local hobby track. The chassis is stock, without any tuning.After first training, I noticed that the car is hard to drive on power push. It would turn in fine, but the second I squeeze the throttle again, it would almost go straight even while trying to turn. The rear axle of the car is very unstable. It feels like 2wd, not 4wd.
I would like to ask you for some tips and set up sheet examples.

Thank you in advance.
Sorry for my bad english.
 

dougstar

Well-Known Member
Messages
6,332
Location
KZN South Africa
Hey Vin
I have a fg beetle pro 4WD I noticed similar thing turns better when not at full turn. I upgraded to ball drive which gives increased steering angle car handles much better now. Not a cheap upgrade but :unsure:
 

donnn

New Member
Messages
3
Hey folks.
I recently started racing with 4wd FG Sportslines here on a local hobby track. The chassis is stock, without any tuning.After first training, I noticed that the car is hard to drive on power push. It would turn in fine, but the second I squeeze the throttle again, it would almost go straight even while trying to turn. The rear axle of the car is very unstable. It feels like 2wd, not 4wd.
I would like to ask you for some tips and set up sheet examples.

Thank you in advance.
Sorry for my bad english.

FG 4wd SportsLine setup that we use at Steel City RC Speedway in Fontana, CA.

  • Set chassis ride height to 10mm both for the Front and Rear

  • Front shock oil we use 10k and Rear with 7k or 8k
  • Black spring in front and Purple in rear, or you can go Purple front and rear.
  • Lean the Rear top shock over to inner most hole on tower
  • Be sure that the sway bar end does not touch spring, if it does you will need to Dremel the end a bit…remove from chassis to do so.
  • Add 2 shims to steering bell crank were turnbuckles connects, and three shims at the steering blocks, you might need longer screws.
  • Shims are about 1mm thick each
  • Then find the center of the chassis then using a long Allen wrench or screwdriver lift the front end slowly until the wheels come off the ground, we want both to come off at the same time. If they don’t only adjust on the upper tweak screws in the upper control arms. Loosen the one that comes off too soon just a bit and tighten the other just a bit.
  • Repeat for the REAR but you want the tires to come off the ground a couple of Milli-meters above the 10mm ride height to about 13mm to see the wheels come off the ground at the same time.
  • Adjust the same way
  • We do not have the lower control arm set screw touching at all.
  • For the rear do the same but you want the wheels
 

Big Bill

Member
Messages
8
Thanks for that info donn. It seems very difficult to find any info on 5th scale setup, I race with the Rams in Northern Calif. just up the coast from you. Steel City is on my list of tracks to try and compete at, Thanks
 

donnn

New Member
Messages
3
Bill sorry it took so log to reply I just remembered my login. Duuuhhhh.
I was at your track this past June I think for a race. Love the place and learned to respect the curbs really quickly.
next time I come up I will have more motor. AtSteel City the FG model Spec is just that a spec class. We are only aloud some upgrades and hop ups. For the engine we’re can only change the clutch, plug and an approved pipe and header. You should email Phil for the rules. On Facebook there is a group of us under FG Modellspec 5, if your on FB sing up and we can talk there also.
Again sorry it took so long. Have Happy Thanksgiving will have to meet when I get back to Fremont or you make down to steel.
 
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