FH Alloy Differential Cage - FG8484

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Are any of you sick of waiting for those dang Duratrax FireHammer alloy differential cages to get in from overseas or unloaded from the shipping container? I had been waiting since January and had seen them said to be in every month since then to only get put off another month. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHUB2&P=PU
So instead of getting the DTX one I went to the LHS and picked up a FG8484 alloy diff cage and used that instead. I found that it is a much better constructed cage with pin bearings in the inside as wall as brass fittings for a smooth run. It came with cheaper metal shielded bearings but that seems to be what they all come with. It’s not possible to pull the bearings off with anything but some type of puller and even since I have the rubber shield bearings waiting to get on I skipped replacing them at this time. Here are a few close up photos of the install and quality. I also bought the AMS SS sleeve from Python and think it a real quality sleeve compared to the ones I bought years ago.
The only items that you will need are a few more of the spacers or a thin type of washer to shim the gears closer. Two 20x8.1mm washers and two 15x5.1mm washers. The spacing is the same as the stock but after messing with it for some time I found if you double the spacers all the way around that the mesh is way better and still not to tight, this would go for all the cages not just this one.

LHS Pricing:
AMS Sleeve = $20.00
DTXC7364 = $48.99
FG8484 = $84.99

I thought it was $20.00 but guess it was more like $36.00.:blush:

DTX:

dtxc7364.webp

FG:

DSC04018.webp

Pin bearing:

DSC04023.webp

Brass fitting:

DSC04021.webp

With the sleeve installed:

DSC04025.webp
 
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That looks a lot better than the Duratrax one I agree. Looks much sturdier and way better built. What buggy/ truck are you using it for ? And did you use your original spider gears ?
 
That's the same one I used BTB- the FG8484!

Tower is too damn unreliable. Their concern is obviously not for the customer. I'm wanting a clear $60 Firehammer MT body, but now it won't be in until JUNE!
 
Inntcptr said:
That looks a lot better than the Duratrax one I agree. Looks much sturdier and way better built. What buggy/ truck are you using it for ? And did you use your original spider gears ?
Click to expand...

Firehammer Buggy but I believe the MT uses the same diff cage. Ya, I used the DTX gears.

csp1971 said:
That's the same one I used BTB- the FG8484!

Tower is too damn unreliable. Their concern is obviously not for the customer. I'm wanting a clear $60 Firehammer MT body, but now it won't be in until JUNE!
Click to expand...

I can't stand the way the overseas stuff gets updated monthly. How can it go from on order, to an shipping, arrival date, and then go back to an order date every single month? I feel good with the extra money spent.:)
 
BTB, I see that there are, what looks like 2 large o Rings that came with your new diff case to seal the ends. Would those go in the same place that you put the silicone sealant in your " diff sealing" write up ? If they are, then I would NOT need to seal the diff, is that correct ? I'm just going to order mine from LargeScaleRC, since TowerHobbies won't have theirs in stock until "December 2045" LMAO. I going to follow your write up that you did on the rebuild, seems fairly straight forward ? Anything else I should be aware of ? Thanks
 
I have this one on my Traveller :2guns:

200821320389321.JPG
 
Inntcptr said:
BTB, I see that there are, what looks like 2 large o Rings that came with your new diff case to seal the ends. Would those go in the same place that you put the silicone sealant in your " diff sealing" write up ? If they are, then I would NOT need to seal the diff, is that correct ? I'm just going to order mine from LargeScaleRC, since TowerHobbies won't have theirs in stock until "December 2045" LMAO. I going to follow your write up that you did on the rebuild, seems fairly straight forward ? Anything else I should be aware of ? Thanks
Click to expand...

Ya, the two rings should seal real well but, I still used the silicone trick that way I was covered that no crap could get out. Are you getting the SS ring too? The SS ring is the bomb compared to the stock sleeve.:cool2:

"December 2045" LMAO.
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Now that's funny and exactly how I felt!:lol:

Anything else I should be aware of ?
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Not sure if you will need those extra washers like I did but I'm sure you can find some elsewhere that will work just as good to shim up the non FG diff gears slightly closer for mesh. The set up will still work without the extra washers I just think it should be tighter and the FG Diff gears are slightly wider making them mesh slightly closer in both stock and upgrades.

monster said:
I have this one on my Traveller :2guns:
200821320389321.JPG
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Not sure if that one has the needle bearings and the brass fittings in the ends but it looks from the side to be exactly like the FG except it comes with a thicker aluminum sleeve instead of a thin one.:)
 
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FGms290diffprotectorsmall.jpg


Heeeey didnt you buy it off me... then did your how to pictorial on RCU???:)

Python has good prices
 
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Yes, and I wanted to buy another but you never got back to my emails. I wanted to make sure you still sold stuff and had it in stock.:blush:
 
thats the good thing about the hammer.... 90% of FG parts are compatible or if you want you can change everthing over to FG


Can you put the FG steel sleeve on the Firhammer Diff?
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don't put a stock FG sleeve on the diff its to thin ..get pythons

look at the difference in the cover thickness.... on the right is FG

Pythons is stainless steel ...FGs aluminum

Tr51328.jpg
 
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Aren't those a b*tch to get off though anyway? I know when my diff housing broke getting the thing off there was a bit tough, I pretty much had to beat the hell out of it to get to the gears. Is there an easy way to get these things to slide off? Maybe the stainless steel one would be better.
 
csp1971 said:
Aren't those a b*tch to get off though anyway? I know when my diff housing broke getting the thing off there was a bit tough, I pretty much had to beat the hell out of it to get to the gears. Is there an easy way to get these things to slide off? Maybe the stainless steel one would be better.
Click to expand...

easiest way to remove the stock cover is peeling it off... its aluminum and thin...

you can drive a car/automobile over the stainless steel cover and it doesn't bend ...it will be the last cover you will ever have to buy:2guns:



Pm34729.jpg
 
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hey jig...that is cheap parts used to build the rc unit on the firehammer...get a rock there it will put a hole in the alum shell...the plastic diff carrier is junk....as well they will break
from doing any kinds of jumping.....Slawhammer
 
We have varies upgrades for FG/Carson/FH/SMT....
I think can help you guys , can visit our nutechracing website.

Thanks
Chris
 
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