Premium members don't see ads.Click hereto upgrade.

Finally a successful beat down of my Rovan

Polar_Bus

Well-Known Member
Messages
298
Location
New Hampshire USA
So I tried getting my Rovan running over the past holiday weekend and no luck. I could not get it to stay running. It was also 89F and SO humid that I was dying in the heat and just getting all pissed off. Problem is that last time my Rovan ran was back in March when I did my idle break in. What did not occur to me was the carb settings were for temps in the 40's (very rich). The engine would fart then quickly die. I screwed around for an hour attempting to get the engine to stay running (the default needle settings are not correct for my carb for whatever reason. Got really pissed off and just quit.
Today was much better, 80F and comfortable humidity so I could spend some time and get the needles figured out. After adding a fresh spark plug, and setting both needles at 1.75 turns out I was at least able to get the engine to run and STAY running long enough to begin tuning. Long story short LS was too rich, and HS was just about right. Once I had a good tune I began to play, and first was I needed quicker steering . No problem, went into the Flysky parameters and bumped up the steering ratio. Next 30 min was just spent playing around and my takeaway is a big thumbs up on the 36cc's performance. The Rovan engine with the DDM pipe has some really impressive torque. A solid feed of WOT easily causes the rear MadMax road tires to break free even at speed. Drifting through corners is easily done and using the rear brakes to help rear steer is helpful. My brakes are pretty good, but i'll most likely end up stepping up to a front and rear hydraulic system. Top speed ? I don't know yet my parking lot wasn't big enough to max out mph's. Had one rear wheel hub nut come loose, but no other mechanical issues. The stock Rovan gearing seems a tad high for what I want to do, so i'm thinking I might swap out to a lower gear ratio.
 

Z.hb71

Well-Known Member
Messages
6,989
So I tried getting my Rovan running over the past holiday weekend and no luck. I could not get it to stay running. It was also 89F and SO humid that I was dying in the heat and just getting all pissed off. Problem is that last time my Rovan ran was back in March when I did my idle break in. What did not occur to me was the carb settings were for temps in the 40's (very rich). The engine would fart then quickly die. I screwed around for an hour attempting to get the engine to stay running (the default needle settings are not correct for my carb for whatever reason. Got really pissed off and just quit.
Today was much better, 80F and comfortable humidity so I could spend some time and get the needles figured out. After adding a fresh spark plug, and setting both needles at 1.75 turns out I was at least able to get the engine to run and STAY running long enough to begin tuning. Long story short LS was too rich, and HS was just about right. Once I had a good tune I began to play, and first was I needed quicker steering . No problem, went into the Flysky parameters and bumped up the steering ratio. Next 30 min was just spent playing around and my takeaway is a big thumbs up on the 36cc's performance. The Rovan engine with the DDM pipe has some really impressive torque. A solid feed of WOT easily causes the rear MadMax road tires to break free even at speed. Drifting through corners is easily done and using the rear brakes to help rear steer is helpful. My brakes are pretty good, but i'll most likely end up stepping up to a front and rear hydraulic system. Top speed ? I don't know yet my parking lot wasn't big enough to max out mph's. Had one rear wheel hub nut come loose, but no other mechanical issues. The stock Rovan gearing seems a tad high for what I want to do, so i'm thinking I might swap out to a lower gear ratio.
Glad you like it! Sounds like the rebuild and blue print payed off 👍
 

Polar_Bus

Well-Known Member
Messages
298
Location
New Hampshire USA
By the end of the night I had excellent engine running, No lean crackle, consistent idle, starts up immediately with one pull, and I would see a slight blue smoke haze when doing a high speed WOT pass. I can also hear that "slightly rich" high rpm burbly sound so I'm comfortable that my tune is a tad on the rich side which is exactly where I want to be while the engine gets some break in hours on it. Now looking forward to some chassis tuning and getting my driving skills back up to "proficient" LOL

question, do you guys observe some elevated rear suspension "squat" when under a dead stop acceleration ? My rear suspension seems to be a bit too soft. Not going to change anything yet, as I want to get some off road time in and then make the call.
 

dougstar

Well-Known Member
Messages
5,449
Location
KZN South Africa
If you feel it's a tad too much you should be able to adjust your shocks for a higher ride height
Yes you can do that to a point 👍 if you put too much tension on the rear shock springs the back end bounces around rather than absorbing the bumps🤔 IMO there is a point where this happens and if you still not happy change the angle of the rear lower pin to get more anti squat👍
 

Polar_Bus

Well-Known Member
Messages
298
Location
New Hampshire USA
Agreed, suspension tuning is ALWAYS a user condition compromise. Every suspension adjustment is cause and effect. Sometimes you make a change to enhance a certain circumstance, and a you inadvertently alter another suspension behavior in a negative way. Out of the box my Rovan seems to be a good compromise of all terrains. I don't plan on beating the living crap out of my chassis. Front suspension seems really good, the rear like I said seems just a bit soft. Might just try some thicker shock oil. Simple, cheap and easily can reverse if it doesn't work out .
 

Seandonato73

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,499
What model.is your roven based off of ? It seems a lot of guys jump up to the "red" springs on the 5ive platform they are a bit higher weight then the stockers
 

Polar_Bus

Well-Known Member
Messages
298
Location
New Hampshire USA
Just thought I would update, today I went out and tested on dirt. Now my power giggle factor just jumped huge, Once the 36cc CY gets up into the midrange it just throws a wicked roost of flying dirt. It takes some throttle finesse to keep my Rovan tracking straight while under heavy acceleration but it's not "out of control". The quality of the CY engines is pretty crappy but as for powder and tune-ability they get a top rating from me. I'm also running a conservative 25:1 ratio mix . I still have some quirks (aka spending money on better quality parts ) that I need to sort out but thus far this truck is a blast to drive !
 

AnubisBC

Well-Known Member
Messages
391
Location
Portland, Oregon
Yeah, there's a lot to be said for roosting around with a 2wd truck. I feel like you need be a more responsive driver when it's a 2wd. Doesn't point 'n squirt like 4wd. Glad you are enjoying your truck now! Just drive it til you break it, then upgrade that part. :D

Edit: Forgot to pop this in here: http://www.davesmotors.com/ddm-hd-rear-shock-spring-set-for-hpi-baja-5b-5t-5sc.html These are the springs to help stiffen the ass end.
 

Polar_Bus

Well-Known Member
Messages
298
Location
New Hampshire USA
My last RC's were 4wd nitro Savages, and I agree 100% 4wd is basically just point and WOT no problem. 2WD , whole different animal. The stout midrange hit of torque on very loose conditions, and my limp steering performance is making my Rovan handle poor. Granted it's also me as i'm rusty (have not driven in over 10 years). I'm in the process of a major steering upgrages , so hopefully this will help gain some precision feedback with respect to cornering.
 

cbaker65

Well-Known Member
Messages
968
My last RC's were 4wd nitro Savages, and I agree 100% 4wd is basically just point and WOT no problem. 2WD , whole different animal. The stout midrange hit of torque on very loose conditions, and my limp steering performance is making my Rovan handle poor. Granted it's also me as i'm rusty (have not driven in over 10 years). I'm in the process of a major steering upgrages , so hopefully this will help gain some precision feedback with respect to cornering.
You up at 5:00 AM running your RC's?....:giggle:
 

lorraine

Well-Known Member
Messages
283
Location
new york
By the end of the night I had excellent engine running, No lean crackle, consistent idle, starts up immediately with one pull, and I would see a slight blue smoke haze when doing a high speed WOT pass. I can also hear that "slightly rich" high rpm burbly sound so I'm comfortable that my tune is a tad on the rich side which is exactly where I want to be while the engine gets some break in hours on it. Now looking forward to some chassis tuning and getting my driving skills back up to "proficient" LOL

question, do you guys observe some elevated rear suspension "squat" when under a dead stop acceleration ? My rear suspension seems to be a bit too soft. Not going to change anything yet, as I want to get some off road time in and then make the call.
get the 2 degree anti squat kit for it at DDM does not get rid of all of it but helps. If you put in more than 2 degree the weight transfer gets messed up and traction gets dicey . I had 3 degree in at first and took it out for the 2, Not even sure if they even offer the 3 anymore .
 
Top