Fix the engine

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.


Active Member
Lisboa, PT
Hi, after the first run with the Dominator pipe my engine cames loose. I have the alloy engine mounts, I use locktite to lock the screws, but it cames loose all the way ?
Masters, do you have any way to solve the problem ?

Man thats why I don't like those pipes - they are too brutal on the chassis and engine as far as they have no flex but the rest of the car is plastic and does flex, maybe your mount where it fits above the spur gear is a little out, most people have to enlarge the hole and fit a washer and longer bolt to get it to fit properly. I went back to my good old FG 2 piece pipe. No doubt you took it offroading did you? Any jumping?
is it possible to put a flex joint in it ? by cutting the pipe after the header part and adding in some heater hose just to give it a flex pont as was stated .. i had a jetpro MB V2 pipe also with no flexing but its mounted totally differently without any issues but still was a solid pipe what was the only part of that pipe i didnt like . the TGN pipes are very close but added in a flex joint ..
thats the only thing i can suggest aswell
I'm confused?? Your talking about a engine movement not a pipe problem right?

With the MT you have two screws on either side of the engine that mount the side aluminum guards to the motor, make sure those are snug and not loose or broken. Check your aluminum mounting bracket the connects the rear to the large motor mount and make sure those screws (3) are tight. Make sure the plates holes have not worn too large to keep the bracket from moving. Other then that I cant offer any other help, if all the screws are real tight and the alloy mounts are snug and blue locktighted the motor should not move. I run the same setup as your talking about are and don't have motor movement issues at this time even when the mounts were plastic.:(
Masters, do you have any way to solve the problem ?


Well my son.... here is what I do:

I use the red stud lock loctite and only use high tensile phillip head screws as you can crank them up better than hex heads in that size.

You must be patient and wait 24 hrs for it to cure.

This will work and if you keep stripping layshaft gears then you need to read this:

Don't be tempted with that elcon stuff because before you know it you will be changing everything because nothing else fits anymore.

Warning: if you use the stud lock you will need to warm the bolt slightly for removal... do not even try to remove without warming as you will stuff the heads of the screws...

Thats what I do anyway.

Let us know how she goes!
I´ve removed the bottom screws, clean them, and put some blue FG glue. But I think than the screws are not the best to use, I bought them in JE Spares online shop (Hi-tensile screws) but when I'm locking them I destroy their heads, probably that idea of a philips screw it's better.

I'll try to run the car this week, and let's see what will happen

AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks