G340 full mod won't start

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
cardarear

cardarear

Well-Known Member
Messages
66
Location
Oakland County, MI
Would anyone like to play the "it won't start game"? So here's the deal. Engine was starting and cutting off a week ago and no it won't start at all. Probably my fault but I can't figure it out. So here's what I've checked it noticed.

I can't see the spark by grounding plug to the top of the head but the tester does light up.
Tried 3 new plugs
Replaced ignition coil
Tried with and without kill switch wiring
Checked for correct spark plug type and gapping
Mixed fresh fuel (28:1) in case spark not the problem
Checked for flooding by removing carb and also turning upside-down with spark plug removed.
There is fuel in bulb and return line and plug comes out wet.
Carb and air filter bolts are on tight
Bolts from head to crankcase are tight.
Breather hope in gas cap is clear.
Air filter is clean ( vehicle always runs with all three outerwears)
I would check for compression but not sure what I'm looking for.

I've already sent an email to OBR for help but does anyone have a suggestion for something I should check?
 
cardarear said:
Would anyone like to play the "it won't start game"? So here's the deal. Engine was starting and cutting off a week ago and no it won't start at all. Probably my fault but I can't figure it out. So here's what I've checked it noticed.

I can't see the spark by grounding plug to the top of the head but the tester does light up.
Tried 3 new plugs
Replaced ignition coil
Tried with and without kill switch wiring
Checked for correct spark plug type and gapping
Mixed fresh fuel (28:1) in case spark not the problem
Checked for flooding by removing carb and also turning upside-down with spark plug removed.
There is fuel in bulb and return line and plug comes out wet.
Carb and air filter bolts are on tight
Bolts from head to crankcase are tight.
Breather hope in gas cap is clear.
Air filter is clean ( vehicle always runs with all three outerwears)
I would check for compression but not sure what I'm looking for.

I've already sent an email to OBR for help but does anyone have a suggestion for something I should check?
Click to expand...
Maybe the flywheel key sheered. You'd probably notice but I'd just check to be sure. Maybe you over oiled your air filter? Try resetting the needles to stock settings. Check the pulse hole on the carb , maybe it's blocked.
 
OBR? Which one? Mine has been insufferable lately. I've been looking at the carb, though, for contamination. When warm/hot it won't prime. Even when cold it's been a BEOTCH. Suspecting vaccum leak too- somewheres.. But I've got plenty-o-compression like Crucial says.

Still not replaced the carb to know yet.
 
Z.hb71 said:
Maybe the flywheel key sheered. You'd probably notice but I'd just check to be sure. Maybe you over oiled your air filter? Try resetting the needles to stock settings. Check the pulse hole on the carb , maybe it's blocked.
Click to expand...
I assume if the flywheel key sheared the flywheel would be free spinning and the piston not moving. The piston is moving. Air filter has not been reoiled lately since car was only run on road and with outerwears. I forgot to mention in the original post but I have a 990 carb and I did reset it it to 1 1\8 low and 1 5\8 high. I will check the pulse hole on the carb and gaskets while im at it.
dougstar said:
Reset your needles ?? start at the base setting H 1 7/8 L 1 3/8 and when you adjust your needles do only 1/16 turns don't go nuts??
Click to expand...
990 carb was reset to default settings 1 1\8 low and 1 5\8 high
 
cardarear said:
I assume if the flywheel key sheared the flywheel would be free spinning and the piston not moving. The piston is moving. Air filter has not been reoiled lately since car was only run on road and with outerwears. I forgot to mention in the original post but I have a 990 carb and I did reset it it to 1 1\8 low and 1 5\8 high. I will check the pulse hole on the carb and gaskets while im at it.
Click to expand...
No it will still spin the crank Because of the taper. Mine did
 
Basher5iveT420 said:
What was it sounding like when it was cutting off ???

If you were really lean and kept driving it like so. You could have fried the engine ?

other things you can check is for broken fuel lines ??
Click to expand...
It just slowly lost revs and died. I was just keeping the revs higher than a normal idle but the car was still stationary. Did that for about 30-40 seconds then eased up on the throttle to see if it would idle and it died.
cardarear said:
It just slowly lost revs and died. I was just keeping the revs higher than a normal idle but the car was still stationary. Did that for about 30-40 seconds then eased up on the throttle to see if it would idle and it died.
Click to expand...
I did add quick disconnects about three weeks ago. I checked the chassis and surrounding area for leaks but didn't see anything obvious. I will have to give it avoid clean and recheck it again next time.
Z.hb71 said:
No it will still spin the crank Because of the taper. Mine did
Click to expand...
So can I check for this without removing the flywheel?
crucialRC said:
You would know if the compression was gone on an obr. How easy is it to pull the pullstart?
Click to expand...
Not easy at all. It kind of sucks.
MTBF said:
OBR? Which one? Mine has been insufferable lately. I've been looking at the carb, though, for contamination. When warm/hot it won't prime. Even when cold it's been a BEOTCH. Suspecting vaccum leak too- somewheres.. But I've got plenty-o-compression like Crucial says.

Still not replaced the carb to know yet.
Click to expand...
It's the G340 full mod (non Reed case). That compression- it's fine when it starts in like 3 pulls, but when it doesn't, it's really rough.
 
Last edited:
cardarear said:
It's the G340 full mod (non Reed case). That compression- it's fine when it starts in like 3 pulls, but when it doesn't, it's really rough.
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks, was actually curious if it was a REED engine. Dumb questions: Is the fuel bad/ sour and a decent 2 stroke oil? Bad fuel source? Pinched fuel lines?

How about the gap from the coil to the flywheel.

And those gaskets from the carb to intake, like Z said. Maybe you got that lil pulse hole clogged with some shtuff.
 
MTBF said:
Ok, thanks, was actually curious if it was a REED engine. Dumb questions: Is the fuel bad/ sour and a decent 2 stroke oil? Bad fuel source? Pinched fuel lines?

How about the gap from the coil to the flywheel.

And those gaskets from the carb to intake, like Z said. Maybe you got that lil pulse hole clogged with some shtuff.
Click to expand...
I used the gap tool from DDM when I installed the new coil. The gadgets and pulse hole hole I will check tomorrow. Thanks
 
First, deflood it. Set it on something so all 4 wheels are off the ground. Pull carb off engine(don't need to disconnect). Pull until it fires. It will wind out then die. Reconnect everything, set carb to base settings (not dougstar settings) and try again.

You said you removed the carb but didn't mention starting it to clear it all out of the crankcase
 
John Parks said:
First, deflood it. Set it on something so all 4 wheels are off the ground. Pull carb off engine(don't need to disconnect). Pull until it fires. It will wind out then die. Reconnect everything, set carb to base settings (not dougstar settings) and try again.

You said you removed the carb but didn't mention starting it to clear it all out of the crankcase
Click to expand...
I tried to clear it out but it would not start. I think I'm going to have to figure out my primary issue before I can do that.
 
Update for today:. Pulled the engine back out. Rechecked the ignition coil and found out that wire on the back side was not connected properly. I think I tried to make the connection without fully removing the coil. The blade of the coil was between the back of the terminal and the plasticc covering instead of inside the terminal. Fix that and reinstalled and re-gapped the coil. Also checked the carb pulse hole and intake and carb gaskets. No issues found there. Still won't start. Removed the carb and tried to start it in case it was flooded. No luck. Next I'm ordering a new carb. So I will try again when that arrives.
 
cardarear said:
Update for today:. Pulled the engine back out. Rechecked the ignition coil and found out that wire on the back side was not connected properly. I think I tried to make the connection without fully removing the coil. The blade of the coil was between the back of the terminal and the plasticc covering instead of inside the terminal. Fix that and reinstalled and re-gapped the coil. Also checked the carb pulse hole and intake and carb gaskets. No issues found there. Still won't start. Removed the carb and tried to start it in case it was flooded. No luck. Next I'm ordering a new carb. So I will try again when that arrives.
Click to expand...
You ever try putting fuel down the plug hole to see if it will light off?
 
Back
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks