Has anyone heard of this buggy ? I'm jst getting into the large scale. Newbie here !!! I have had nitro for quite some time, now it's time to go bigger. I was looking at the FG buggy, but in my searches I had found this one at WWW.jhc-888.com I believe it is the H-6. Any opinoins ? I'm wondering if it is compatable with the FG Marder ??
Hobby pro Mutilator
- Thread starter Inntcptr
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Just PM'ed you the details.
I believe the Mutilator is exactly like the Duratrax Firehammer (Carson Attack, Firehammer MT, Smartech Bigfoot, etc.).
I have a Firehammer MT and was using that company to get parts that Tower didn't have in stock.
It may not be a bad car, I'm not really sure. It's probably fine to get the car from them, but I would just go through Tower for the parts.
Also check out the "clone" section (XTM/Duratrax/Carson). Great info their on these types of cars!
I believe the Mutilator is exactly like the Duratrax Firehammer (Carson Attack, Firehammer MT, Smartech Bigfoot, etc.).
I have a Firehammer MT and was using that company to get parts that Tower didn't have in stock.
It may not be a bad car, I'm not really sure. It's probably fine to get the car from them, but I would just go through Tower for the parts.
Also check out the "clone" section (XTM/Duratrax/Carson). Great info their on these types of cars!
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- Thread starter
- #4
Hey, Thanks csp 1971. That is some great info. I have the Carson Montana and Specter, 1/10 scale nitro. They are both great cars, and from a great company, only problem is that they're based in Europe, so I had to go through England to get all my parts, the bad part is that the price is doubled over there. I was hoping to buy the Mutilator (for the price), and just to get in on the low end and order parts form Towwer Hobbies. This way, if I find that Large scale is not for me, I didn't dump alot of cash into it. On the other hand if I decide to stay with Large Scale, I can always upgrade. Thanks again for all the helpful advice
wannagofaster
Well-Known Member
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- 62
- Location
- Auburn, Ontario
If you want to get the mutilator, you can get it here for a lower price. http://www.hobbytron.com/GasPoweredRCBuggy3CHRTRH6MutilatorJHCH6.html
That's a great price, especially if it really comes with a Zenoah!
- Messages
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I would say! Half the price is in the Zen motor! So a running chassis for $300.00 isn't bad at all.
Gotta love it a clone of a clone of a clone..... When is low enough?
wannagofaster
Well-Known Member
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- Location
- Auburn, Ontario
I wonder if it comes with the mismatched wheels though? still a pretty good deal even if it does.
Mismatched wheels? Who cares! :laugh:
I have just realised there are 2 threads on these bloody things! I thought I was going 
NUTS!
The mutilator is a TQ brand. The TQ brand is CRAP. BTB is right. They are a copy of a clone 3 times over. That would not bother me if the quality was ok...but it's NOT.
NO WAY is it s zanoah
Even at $US400 I wouldn't buy one. To be honest, not even at $US200.:no:
Has anyone noticed that one of the former sponsers of this site TQRCRACING.com no longer has a functioning website? You get directed to the other "sister" site...ring alarm bells for anyone, or is it just because I have missed my meds today???:blink:
NUTS!The mutilator is a TQ brand. The TQ brand is CRAP. BTB is right. They are a copy of a clone 3 times over. That would not bother me if the quality was ok...but it's NOT.
NO WAY is it s zanoah
Even at $US400 I wouldn't buy one. To be honest, not even at $US200.:no:
Has anyone noticed that one of the former sponsers of this site TQRCRACING.com no longer has a functioning website? You get directed to the other "sister" site...ring alarm bells for anyone, or is it just because I have missed my meds today???:blink:
HobbyPro Mutilator wont start
Hi All
I've just bought a HobbyPro 1/6th scale Mutilator, on only it's second outing it wont start, I have a broken finger nail (half way down the nail not a girly break) huge blister and three cut fingers after 300 engine pulls. It ran for about ten minutes but then as soon as I let go of the gas it wouldn't re-start.
I hope it's not a rubbish buggy as I have just bought another one so my brother inlaw can come down to the beach and run them together 'chase meh' style.
Any ideas what could be the problem?
Hi All
I've just bought a HobbyPro 1/6th scale Mutilator, on only it's second outing it wont start, I have a broken finger nail (half way down the nail not a girly break) huge blister and three cut fingers after 300 engine pulls. It ran for about ten minutes but then as soon as I let go of the gas it wouldn't re-start.
I hope it's not a rubbish buggy as I have just bought another one so my brother inlaw can come down to the beach and run them together 'chase meh' style.
Any ideas what could be the problem?
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- Thread starter
- #12
I had ordered one and got it about 2 weeks ago. I had the same problem. I had to readjust all the needle settings. What I did was to start from scratch. I set the low at 1 1/2 out. The High, 1 1/2 turns out, then I took off the air filter and looked at the throttle plate, it was almost closed, so I adjusted that to about 1/16 th + open. The throttle plate is the second one in, you have to look past the choke plate. After it started, I let it idle for about 2-3 minutes and then made some final adjustments to smooth it out. It ran fine after that.
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Bad2worse
Thanks for the reply, I cleaned the air filter I was about to attempt the other suggestions when I tried to restart it, but now the pully rope does not recoil back, I undid the compartment that contains it, but there seems to be nothing to fix, this buggy is going from bad to worse, and just think another 'beauty' is on it's way to me....jeeze I'm so lucky.
Thanks for the reply, I cleaned the air filter I was about to attempt the other suggestions when I tried to restart it, but now the pully rope does not recoil back, I undid the compartment that contains it, but there seems to be nothing to fix, this buggy is going from bad to worse, and just think another 'beauty' is on it's way to me....jeeze I'm so lucky.
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- 7,733
- Location
- Minnesota
Did it break or just get stuck?
Sounds flooded. If you can hold the plug to the side and see spark when touching a metal object then take the plug out, tip it upside down, and pull about 5-10 times so the fuel in the bottom end can drain out. Reinstall the plug do not choke at 1st and try pulling again.
Sounds flooded. If you can hold the plug to the side and see spark when touching a metal object then take the plug out, tip it upside down, and pull about 5-10 times so the fuel in the bottom end can drain out. Reinstall the plug do not choke at 1st and try pulling again.
Hi It didn't break, it's stuck right at the end, I didn't get a spark. I took out the spark and turned the buggy upside down but no fuel came out. the rope is still hanging there.
Maybe running the buggy on the beach is the problem, but I assumed it could handle this as it's an off road buggy
Maybe running the buggy on the beach is the problem, but I assumed it could handle this as it's an off road buggy
- Messages
- 7,733
- Location
- Minnesota
Remove the inside of the pullstart and clean it out. Sand is a killer no matter what the item is.
Here is a post for help on it:
http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3694
I found it to be extremely easy,
First make sure that the housing is not broken, the housing being the outer part of the assembly.
It should have a place on the outside of the ring that the end of the spring should slip into; the end of the spring should have a bend in it that will slip into that slot.
The other end of the spring (the end that will be in the center) should also have a bend in it, look on the back of the black plastic center piece and there should be a corresponding place for the spring to hook onto.
slip the outside end of the spring into the slot on the outer part so the spring can be wrapped counter clockwise, and wrap it in.
now if (and it should be, or you can bend it slightly) the hook on the inside end of the spring is about 1/4 inch from the center point it will automatically slip into the black plastic piece when you put it back on.
Try a test fit, put the black piece back on and turn it counter clockwise......it should grab the spring and build tension....if it does great!!! if not you will have to mess with the spring a bit to get it in the correct spot to grab it correctly.
Your almost done
first release all the tension and remove the black piece.
With the string placed through the hole and both ends connected,(one in the handle and one end knotted in the center black piece) wrap about 2/3 of the string onto the center black piece in a counter clockwise direction.
Now put it in place and screw the assembly back together.
There is a notch on the side of the black piece, hold the string there and begin wrapping counter clockwise approximately 4-5 turns.
now SLOWLY let the spring tension pull the remaining 1/3 of string in.
If every thing worked right you should have a rebuilt spring, if not go to a hardware store and they can show you how to do it.
One thing to check that it extremely important....when you pull the cord to it full length the knotted end should stop its extension NOT the spring. If the spring is stopping its extension then it's wrapped to tight, unwrap one coil of string on the black piece.
Here is a post for help on it:
http://www.hpibajaforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3694
I found it to be extremely easy,
First make sure that the housing is not broken, the housing being the outer part of the assembly.
It should have a place on the outside of the ring that the end of the spring should slip into; the end of the spring should have a bend in it that will slip into that slot.
The other end of the spring (the end that will be in the center) should also have a bend in it, look on the back of the black plastic center piece and there should be a corresponding place for the spring to hook onto.
slip the outside end of the spring into the slot on the outer part so the spring can be wrapped counter clockwise, and wrap it in.
now if (and it should be, or you can bend it slightly) the hook on the inside end of the spring is about 1/4 inch from the center point it will automatically slip into the black plastic piece when you put it back on.
Try a test fit, put the black piece back on and turn it counter clockwise......it should grab the spring and build tension....if it does great!!! if not you will have to mess with the spring a bit to get it in the correct spot to grab it correctly.
Your almost done
first release all the tension and remove the black piece.
With the string placed through the hole and both ends connected,(one in the handle and one end knotted in the center black piece) wrap about 2/3 of the string onto the center black piece in a counter clockwise direction.
Now put it in place and screw the assembly back together.
There is a notch on the side of the black piece, hold the string there and begin wrapping counter clockwise approximately 4-5 turns.
now SLOWLY let the spring tension pull the remaining 1/3 of string in.
If every thing worked right you should have a rebuilt spring, if not go to a hardware store and they can show you how to do it.
One thing to check that it extremely important....when you pull the cord to it full length the knotted end should stop its extension NOT the spring. If the spring is stopping its extension then it's wrapped to tight, unwrap one coil of string on the black piece.
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- Thread starter
- #17
BEACH !!!! No, No, No, First off, the air filter they come with is horrible !!! You would probably have better filtering if you put a paper towel over the intake LOL. The very first thing I replaced on mine was the filter with an after market 2 stage oiled filter. As for the pull start, it is just probably hung up. Try giving it a couple of tugs, lightly to see if it will let go, I'm guessing some sand might have gotten in there, that's where the pullstart pre-filters come in handy,outwears makes them, it will keep most of the sand out. I'm not sure what availability you have in Italy. But if you're handy you could probably make your own. If it still doesn't release try taking it apart and cleaning it out a little and it should recoil back.
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Thanks all for your help, I'll try and attempt the suggestions. I'll always bring the buggy to the beach so I think maybe
I should have bought a buggy that isn't as fragile to sand, maybe the Marder beetle, that seems to have an enclosed underbelly of the car.
I should have bought a buggy that isn't as fragile to sand, maybe the Marder beetle, that seems to have an enclosed underbelly of the car.
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- 7,733
- Location
- Minnesota
Don't feel bad sand is hard on all the models out there. You really should get outerwear's or steal some nylons and fit them over the filter and pull start. The other area you will get sand into the motor will be through the holes on the inside and underneath but oh well at least you are preventing the biggest and worst areas. If running in sand most of the time reduce the amount or switch to a dry lube in the pull start all others will only gum up in there.