How do i get the clutch blocks off ?

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She started :)

pipeous said:
I had to take my clutch blocks off last night to file the housing down. the housing fouls the fg motor mount a bit and the previous owner did the screen mod but went too low and had to file that down some.... I gambled and stuffed a 1/4" ratchet handle into the flywheel and that worked, though I don't recommend it. I was just in a hurry to finish the job.

WOO HOO....
She started on the third pull :2guns:
After the major rebuild and clean out changed all the gaskets, fuel lines, and spark splug she turned over and sounded sweeeet :)

I let her tick over for about 15 mins with the rear wheels off the ground to get all the gears turning. Nothing seemed to be loose and no strange noises.

I do have a problem with the throttle servo though, i think i cooked it and the battery after plugging in a 7.2v stick battery charger. Its not responding properley and sometimes not at all. Im running 2.4Ghtz so i know its not interferance.
A new battery and servo is the least of my worries now the engine is running !!

This has been an intresting problem finding fault, although im not sure what the main fault was as i changed so many parts ? lol

:2guns:
Click to expand...
 
Great to hear you got your engine running......
Now if you plan on using the 7.4 stick battery....You will need a voltage regulator
to bring the voltage back down to 6 volts....Most servo's are very senctive to high voltage.......Your 7.4 volt stick battery full charged will be more like 8.4 volts......
Bec from castle products is good to reduce voltage....I use a different produce....
I use a stick battery 8.4 volts 4600mah..with a voltage regulator....You want to look
at the Mah for longer run time....not so much your volts....a good 6 volt battery with
4000 or 5000Mah would be the way to go.....as not to worry about frying a servo..
from full battery charge....Most Rec will handle 7 volts............Slaw
 
slawhammer said:
Great to hear you got your engine running......
Now if you plan on using the 7.4 stick battery....You will need a voltage regulator
to bring the voltage back down to 6 volts....Most servo's are very senctive to high voltage.......Your 7.4 volt stick battery full charged will be more like 8.4 volts......
Bec from castle products is good to reduce voltage....I use a different produce....
I use a stick battery 8.4 volts 4600mah..with a voltage regulator....You want to look
at the Mah for longer run time....not so much your volts....a good 6 volt battery with
4000 or 5000Mah would be the way to go.....as not to worry about frying a servo..
from full battery charge....Most Rec will handle 7 volts............Slaw
Click to expand...

Plugged the 7.2v charger in by mistake.. (what with my bench covered in parts n all) I currently have a 4500Mah, but now my Servo is twitchy, and sometimes non responsive !!!!
i put a meter on the battery and it and its reading 7.6v..

Think ive mashed the servo. :-(
 
Ok..take and loosen up the linkage on the servo...for the throttle rod to the carb...
then turn on TX & car battery..that will let the servo find center position..with out
twiching..it may be to tight or binding......Slaw
 
slawhammer said:
Ok..take and loosen up the linkage on the servo...for the throttle rod to the carb...
then turn on TX & car battery..that will let the servo find center position..with out
twiching..it may be to tight or binding......Slaw
Click to expand...

Yeah i did that a few times to be sure. Its sometimes completely non responsive to the Tx. If it twitchs the Tx has no control over it. - The real strange thing is this: it works fine when the engine isnt running and the servo responds normally, the second the engine is running, it starts playing up again ??? confused ! :blush:
 
You have RF your getting a signal from the spark plug....where is your antanna located
not close to the spark plug wire....You may have a split rubber boot for the spark plug or pin hole in the coil wire.......you may have to change the coil wire..easy to do......
for the heck of it ..wrap the coil wire and rubber boot with alum foil....see if that sheilds
the signal.......Just a wild guess on that....I know years back you use to use braded shielded wire to cover the coil wire and ground it out to the engine case....so any signal
would ground out......Slaw
 
slawhammer said:
You have RF your getting a signal from the spark plug....where is your antanna located
not close to the spark plug wire....You may have a split rubber boot for the spark plug or pin hole in the coil wire.......you may have to change the coil wire..easy to do......
for the heck of it ..wrap the coil wire and rubber boot with alum foil....see if that sheilds
the signal.......Just a wild guess on that....I know years back you use to use braded shielded wire to cover the coil wire and ground it out to the engine case....so any signal
would ground out......Slaw
Click to expand...

Yep your right, the top of the rubber boot has a hole in it to the point were i can see the top of the spark plug nipple ! the cable looks fairly beaten up so will replace it !

thanks for the tip :cool2:
 
Streetwise said:
Yep your right, the top of the rubber boot has a hole in it to the point were i can see the top of the spark plug nipple ! the cable looks fairly beaten up so will replace it !

thanks for the tip :cool2:
Click to expand...

Hey
Had the same issue again, it just wouldn't start... wouldnt fire.
I know its not the gaskets - all changed, piston and ring all good as all the recent work ive done on it.

Checked the spark plug against the head, sometimes it would spark and sometimes it wouldn't. After adjusting the the wire and plug in different postions agains the metal work and only getting some spark, i re set the coil on the fly wheel with a business card and was still getting the same results.

Took the coil and lead off, put a meter across it and found that it had a break in the wire as i would loose my signal when bending the cable about.. what with the hole in the top of the rubber boot, i decided to open up the cable to see where the break was.

It was were the metel pin is inserted into the cable. Put my meter back across the spring and the end of the cable, everytime i touched the spring it would break contact. Man this is a real poor way to make an electrical connection and even worse to something like a spark plug !!! :eek:mg:

will load pictures...

Anybody suggest a good lead and spark plug cap ??
 
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Managed to get the pics loaded...

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Hey S/hammer

I have fried the servo, i had smoke coming out of it today, its totally dead now !! :-(
My batterys were reading almost 8v.. not good for a 6v servo. I took the 6v hump pack out from my T-maxx
and checked the servo with that, still dead.

These batterys are quite old, so will replace them along witha new servo... see now im thinking about putting in an extra servo
just for the front brakes.

This has definatley been a real bash ya head against the wall week of problem finding.. all good experience i guess. Shame its been
in the garage more than on the dirt !!
 
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Street..Yeah well you have too take the bad some times for the hobby....
Just replace the whole ignition cable...It screws in to the coil....
As to the battery you may have to condition it....to bring it back to some life.....
Servo's are real sentivative to voltage....more than 6volts will fry most of them
You need a BEC...or step down voltage regulator to 6 volts.....
I my self at present time use a stick battery 8.4volts 4600Mah/with a step down voltage
regulator.too 6 volts.....been using this for about 8 months now....no issues...
Working on your car is have the fun....yes cost money to do so..but what hobby don't cost you......If you have read my thread you will see I have many dollars invested in my car from many many break down for repairs.....Glad to help ya out..Slaw
 
slawhammer said:
Street..Yeah well you have too take the bad some times for the hobby....
Just replace the whole ignition cable...It screws in to the coil....
As to the battery you may have to condition it....to bring it back to some life.....
Servo's are real sentivative to voltage....more than 6volts will fry most of them
You need a BEC...or step down voltage regulator to 6 volts.....
I my self at present time use a stick battery 8.4volts 4600Mah/with a step down voltage
regulator.too 6 volts.....been using this for about 8 months now....no issues...
Working on your car is have the fun....yes cost money to do so..but what hobby don't cost you......If you have read my thread you will see I have many dollars invested in my car from many many break down for repairs.....Glad to help ya out..Slaw
Click to expand...

Yeah its good tearing it down for repair / mods. Just doing more of that than any bashin lately..!!

Throw me some ideas for the voltage regulators, good / bad ones etc. Never really used one before, alwasys just ran it threw the BEC set up. will look into it.

Will get new battery and a better charger, i guess it wouldn't hurt. Got find a good price on some servos too.

Want to get back out there before the weather turns !!
 
I use the castle creations bec myself. you need the castle link though that hooks to the computer to change voltages. the hercules bec is very good (I know the owner and do thrash testing of his stuff), ubec is another. I use a 3s lipo for my rx pack and step down to 6v. lasts forever. just make sure the bec is capable of a few amps as the servos need some poop. I had the castles from crawlers and brushless 8th scales. the higher the voltage into an esc, the less the internal bec can provide for amps before overheating, so we pulled the red wires from the esc and supplied servo power with a bec. I sold the crawlers and had a couple bec's kicking around, and the 3s lipos so figured I'd try and haven't looked back since
 
Street..you may have to ask VooDoo.. seeing how you are across the water
where you can find step down voltage regulator.....You can try a google search
for a 6 volt regulator......I got my items here in the USA......That will will solve many electronic problems with servo's......Most Rec can take 7 volts..... Slaw
 
Hey Street..That would be fine to use....seeing you can use both type's Batteryies
Nimah & Lipo......You may want to consider going to LiPo & new charger...that will charge
both Battery packs..Nimah & lipo.......With Lipo there is no memory effect..they have no
memory....Just do not let them get run down dead......I see that regulator has a cut/off
as not to ruin the batterys...........I would go with what you showed there..Slaw
 
slawhammer said:
Hey Street..That would be fine to use....seeing you can use both type's Batteryies
Nimah & Lipo......You may want to consider going to LiPo & new charger...that will charge
both Battery packs..Nimah & lipo.......With Lipo there is no memory effect..they have no
memory....Just do not let them get run down dead......I see that regulator has a cut/off
as not to ruin the batterys...........I would go with what you showed there..Slaw
Click to expand...

Woooah...those Lipo batts are costly... :blink: Will put them on the wish list for now... lol got to sort servos out first.

So may servos to choose from. Probaby going to have a seperate servo for the front brakes, (disks) looking at the; MG955 / HS-9545 to start with
going to continue my research though. Some have operating voltage up to 7.2v with forces of around 9KG, which will be plenty for the front brakes, and over time i can add rear disks to the throttle / brake servo.
now were did i put that credit card.....:devil2:

Street...
 
Street...That 995 servo will work ok.....Now as for Lipo Batteries check here
www.Hobbycity.com they are priced very reasonable and same for chargers...
I can work with you here so will Pipeous on this lipo stuff......Pipeous has better
knowladge then me......Slaw
 
slawhammer said:
Street...That 995 servo will work ok.....Now as for Lipo Batteries check here
www.Hobbycity.com they are priced very reasonable and same for chargers...
I can work with you here so will Pipeous on this lipo stuff......Pipeous has better
knowladge then me......Slaw
Click to expand...

Good site Slaw..
Will do some more reasearch into Lipo's. Ive read some intresting threads on here about them, seems the way to go depending on $$$ to spend.
The 995's read good too, seem fairly reasonably priced compared to better brands etc, seen good reveiws about them.

Right onto the serious stuff now, im off for a few beers tonight as tomorrows my Birthday :) woo hoo. :party-time:

Soon.
Street..
 
Street...Have good one.....You can get some Lipo Batteries & charger for less than
say $100 euro......I will hook you up on what to buy ..before you make a purchase..
.....You still need the voltage regulator ..........slaw
 
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