how does the DBXL center diff work?

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S

shayno

Well-Known Member
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I understand how the fromt and rear diffs work, I don't understand how the center diff works and how do i lock it? And do I want to lock it? I've locked diffs in everything ive ever had, and liked it, I just don't know if the dbxl is a good candidate.
 
It works same as front or rear diff only front to back when you go in to hair pen turn and put on brakes it lets you have more front brake bias and it stops the front tires from unloading coming off the turns if diff fluid is right to light the front tires grow and if the front diff is to light only one front tire grows
There's a saying if the front tires are growing you are not going and it's true watch some front tires it's hard to see if your driving but the right diff fluid is worth a second a lap
 
ok I think im tracking. So if that's the case then I think I want to figure out how to lock all the diffs on the dbxl. I don't race and don't really have a chance to so I don't care about handling as much.
 
Your better off tuning the diff compared to locking it, I have the Vertigo locker hanging on the wall, I Broke 4 shafts in the few days I used it, haven't broke one sense, I'm a basher too, jumping while locked just breaks parts, it comes stock 30,50,30, I'm going 60, 150, 60 good luck man
 
Use 100K center diff. oil (really thick), and 30K front and rear if you want slow diff. action w/o locking it. It will slip enough to avoid broken parts when landing on throttle, but not turn like a tractor. Most race setups by comparison would run 10K-30K center diff. and 10K-20K front and thinner 3-5K rear. It makes for a pulling feeling in and out of turns, yet stable on loose surfaces. 5th. scales are heavier machines than smaller scale 4wd's, so figure 10-20K thinner on smaller, lighter scales. My 1/8 buggy is running 10K, ft. 25K ctr. and 5K rear, and the 5ive T is running 25K ft., 50K center, and 10K rear and they both handle about the same, stability wise, quite different in the air of course.
 
Holy Molloy, after bashing the Reed case 30.5 in the buggy I'm gonna need to get after those diffs sooner than later, also need to take the tires apart and gorilla tape the tires and foams, I had pizza cutters on the hard dirt at close to 40, oh man its sick, so this test will find any and all weak links, so far so good, I do have a jetpro pipe coming, the DDM stuffed in there worked but in the summer she, d melt down for sure, I got the brocitis going on so gotta lay low let the meds work, coughing up razor blades, oh brother. I'm alive that's goods
 
We don't produce a centre spool for the DBXL.

For the 5ive and the Baja they are some of our most popular items.
If people break parts using a spool it's more often than not driver error, driving style must be adjusted to accommodate a locked diff.

Cheers,
C.
 
Vertigo Performance said:
We don't produce a centre spool for the DBXL.

For the 5ive and the Baja they are some of our most popular items.
If people break parts using a spool it's more often than not driver error, driving style must be adjusted to accommodate a locked diff.

Cheers,
C.
Click to expand...

I agree on driver error you've gotta whatch out for on throttle landings when running locked
 
ive messaged you guys at vertigo. And when a center spool is available I will buy one. I don't do crazy bashing with huge jumps, so I want to try one. the way the diffs are setup on the dbxl are really crappy...
 
What's the best diff fluid brand you guys would recommend? After reading about the almost empty diffs I'm gonna change em this weekend
 
Vertigo Performance said:
We don't produce a centre spool for the DBXL.

For the 5ive and the Baja they are some of our most popular items.
If people break parts using a spool it's more often than not driver error, driving style must be adjusted to accommodate a locked diff.

Cheers,
C.
Click to expand...
Any chance when one might be available for our DBXL E's. Thanks
 
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