How To: 5ive-T Shocks on DBXL

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Argulace

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I looked high and low for a good guide on how to convert a DBXL to run 5ive-T shocks without murdering my car or buying $400 worth of alloy & custom fab. Couldn't find anything so I made one myself.

Disclaimer: This may not be the "best" way or the least expensive way. My goal here was to do a conversion that was durable, didn't wreck the car and was as cost effective as possible without being "cheap." So if you don't like the way I did it, please invent your own way or feel free to contribute CONSTRUCTIVE feedback to improve the design. Do this modification at YOUR OWN RISK. I'm not responsible for you messing up your car!

Problem: DBXL suspension sucks, the car jumps like a hard tail Harley Davidson and lands like a wet brick! The stock suspension makes the car turn like a sled. There is just no real reliable way to make it as supple, compliant and responsive as the 5ive-T without a massive amount of money. The easy solution is to get rid of the garbage shocks, but that presents yet another problem; the lack of aftermarket bolt on shocks for DBXL.

Solution: Losi 5ive-T shocks are PROVEN and RELIABLE. The front shocks for a 5ive-T are within 1mm of eye to eye length for the OE DBXL Shocks. So it's a home run if you can get it to work.

Parts Required:
4X M6 Metric Threaded Self-Tapping Furniture Insert (available at ACE hardware for .39 each)
(Alternates to Threaded Furniture Insert: 4X M6 Barrel Nuts or Brake Backing Bolt for bicycle)
8X6mm Flat Washer
Losi 5ive-T Shock Mount Kit LOSB2859
Losi 5ive-T Shock Plastics Kit LOSB2855
2 Sets of 5ive-T front Shocks Dollar Hobbys PN: 5T Shocks Front / UPC 015568431586

Tools Required:
Cordless Drill (small and easy to control)
Drill Bit : 5/16 (SHARP)
10mm Driver/Socket
6mm Allen Tool / Socket
Hobby Saw with metal blade (DO NOT USE A WOOD BLADE)

MISC HELPFUL PICS:
This is what you are trying to accomplish. Red one gone, blue one on - and then a happy person with a good suspension setup.



This is the underside of my 5ive-T for reference



Upper Mounting Hardware with part numbers


Lower Mounting Hardware (use stock lower bolts - both right handed M5's)


This is a pic of the setup I used in the end on my car.


This is an example of the alternate setup. This is using an M6 Barrel Nut. The only difference is you need a slightly larger hole in the shock tower which is in the end the reason I opted NOT to use this design. I choose to leave more material in the shock tower for strength.


This is an example of the alternate setup 2. This is using a Wheels Manufacturing Brake Barrel Nut which you can source at your local bike shop. CAUTION: This will require you to custom cut the barrel nut to length but it will work with the same drill bit size from the tools list.


These are barrel nuts and furniture nuts together. Note the barrel nuts diameter is larger so if you use them you need to drill a larger hole which is why I didn't use them.


THE GUIDE:

Step 1: Old shocks OFF. Remove them and throw them directly in the trash. (If you can't tell, I don't like the stock DBXL shocks. I've bent 3 of them, had two seize up on me, popped the caps off another two and had one squeaking perpetually even after rebuild for 2 months!.) So yeah, get rid of em.

Step 2: Remove rear bumper and bumper strut. Enlarge the INNER most hole in your shock tower on both sides to 5/16 CAREFULLY and SLOWLY with good control. If you don't know how to drill plastic without the bit grabbing and running away on you using your forefinger and hand as a brace, find someone who does and ask them to help you drill it. Plastic likes to grab bits and take off with them, you can crack your shock tower if you don't maintain control so do it carefully and always remain in control of the bit's forward progress. (NOTE: I used the inner hole. I did this because the strut tower is stronger there and because the new 5ive-T shocks are CLEARLY stronger than the DBXL shocks. I wanted to move the shock uppers in so that the suspension is as supple as possible. You can do this however you like.


Step 3: Using your hobby saw with a metal blade, carefully cut away the excess thin plastic/nylon material from the hole so that what you are left with is a clean flat surface to mount the 5ive-T shock tower mounts on to. Failing to do this will cause you to have a thin walled surface which is too deep and causes the shock angle to be incorrect. The shocks will bind and the caps will rub on the mounts if this step is skipped. You will also re-create one of the original down falls of the stock shocks which is poor angle to the A-Arm. This step causes the shock to sit nearly directly dead center over the lower mount which gives you amazing shock actuation.
OQmo0I.jpg
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(((This is what you are preventing. See the angle, how it goes towards the front of the car at the bottom. Also note that it will rub the cap if you leave it at that angle, removing the plastic as shown above prevents this and solves multiple problems)))
L2SfUQ.jpg

Step 4: Using a 6mm allen socket, push on the threaded furniture sleeve and thread it in carefully. Make sure it goes in straight because you basically get one shot. Note: Once the lip on the cap is flush with the plastic, STOP. If you over tighten it, you will strip the cap. The threads are coarse so tighten it 1/4 turn at a time. What I did was turn it 1/4 clock wise, then 1/4 counter-clockwise 2/3 times to make sure I got a good bite of the plastic then I set about threading it in slowly. Keep CONSTANT pressure on it so you don't strip the cap or screw up the plastic.
zbfP76.jpg
zbfP76.jpg

Step 5: Put it together. Use Blue Lock Tight on the threads for the upper mounts and when you tighten them, stop when the bottom of the hex nut shape on the upper mount is parallel with the bottom of the shock tower shape. This insures that the cap will not rub on the outside of the shock mounting surface.
uhDa8U.jpg

Step 6: Install shocks like you normally would. Use a single washer on both sides of the lower shock mount to take up the space. The DBXL shocks have a wider lower mount than the 5ive-T does. That is why you put the washers on inside the A-Arm. Also note this will prevent the shock pivot from cutting into the plastic like it does on the DBXL shocks. You may need to fight with the washers a little bit to get them in there but do it, it's worth it.
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Don't forget to use the plastic shock mount inserts for the upper cap mounts. Otherwise the shocks will shake like crazy. They also come with a washer and a lock nut. Use both.

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Step 7: Repeat process on front.

Step 8: GET TO RIPPIN'
 
Sorry guys I'm trying to fix the pictures but the editor keeps telling me my content is spam and it wont allow me to delete the duplicate and replace it with the correct photo. I'll keep working on it. I also have the front done so I'll upload those photos also.

Glad everyone likes it, I hope it helps someone out.
 
This is from 5 years ago but the info seems like it would still work today. Just picked up a new DBXL-E 2.0 and plan to try this. Just curious in 5 years if this would still work from anyone who has tried it.
 
Do you want to run 5ive t shocks? Then that's pretty much your option. The stock dbxl shocks suck. That's a fact. haven't heard much on the 2.0 version yet. So I'll reserve judgment for the time being. The 5ive shocks are proven, and have great support behind them. Literally night and day difference in handling, larger upper shock mounting bolt to boot. don't see how fixing a factory snafu is a hack.
 
I got a dbxl 2.0 recently and it has an aluminum shock tower. We haven't sent it really or anything but the shocks seem pretty good.

It definitely doesn't look like the pictures. I can maybe see why people cast a lot of shade on the DBXL. A plastic tower like that on a 30 lb. truck? Seems doomed to fail. I mean, then again the tower on the 2.0 is not right to the chassis or anything. I think it is bolted to a plastic bulkhead that goes over the diffs.

We had an outrageous incident with our basically brand new truck that included ramming several immovable objects at full throttle and specifically shock related (because we broke numerous things but shock related only) we only broke a rod end.

The standoff on the 2.0 appears to be a 6mm threaded rod and looks like this.

View attachment 84426

The original DBXL really paled in comparison to the 5B and 5T losis I guess.
The plastic shock towers were never an issue, the factory shocks suck, along with just about everything else in it. So far from all the 2.0 crowds questions and responses I see no reason why the 2.0 is much better then the original version. Actually it still has many of the same issues, although most of you will claim they are so much better, but the few that have had both or worked on both say it's still a boat anchor. Fact is, the dbxl is an entry level platform, with little aftermarket support, it can be made into a great rig but till your done it's still not up to a 5ive B/T.
@Rep732 need a clean up please.
 
agree. 👍 .my db had almost every alloy bit on it an in the end i striped n sold the bling and then the db:poop:...to buy a 5ive...which is soooooo much better out the box thn any modded db will ever b.....imo...(y)
my 5ive flys like a bird..🦅..my db flew like a brick...🧱........🤣
 
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