jetpro issues

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dc2 man

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Messages
869
Location
limerick/munster
anybody know how to keep a jetpro pipe on,i have tryed everything,red tread lock,blue treadlock,super loctite and all no good,it keeps coming loose,i had to remove my cy engine recently because was no treads left on the head,now beacause of this i had to remove the cy29 and put back in the 26cc zenoah but thats too a pain in the arse cause it still comes loose on the zenoah engine(but least i have a tread on that to screw in to) ahaaa

any ideas?
its a pain in the arse everything i run this car something goes wrong with it ahhhhh

yesterday ran the the car briefly and it broke the clutch spring........

so anoying,its the fact that when ever i want to fix something then that jetpro is in the way,and my god is that some slow pain in the ass to take off or put on.:eek:mg:
 
Last edited:
Exhaust Bolts or Cap Screws

Hey my friend..I am from the old school if military way..I drilled 1/16 th holes in the cap screw head and used .032 wire.....Used red lock -tite and wired the screws ned have came loose .....some people slip a body clip in the hole also laying on the exhasut pipe to keep from backing the screw out..See enclosed picture..Hope this Helps........AKASlawhammer
 

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What in the #ell did you use to drill those holes? In a hardened bolt.

I just put a new gasket in-warm up the engine a few times, re tightem, and put a dab of black high temp silicone on the pipe and bolt head, I have never had one come loose.
 
I used a carbide drill bit..Low to medium speed..You want to see a spiral from the cap screw when drilling....center punch first so drill bit won't walk on you..I used stainless steel cap screws....slow and easy..use a little cutting oil...Give it a try...Next couple I do I will post a video doing it....All I have is a dremal ..mounted in a small press...
AKASlawhammer
 
sound lads.

frank hows things,you say you use stainless steel washers,now how would they help,spring washers?


Split washers.I run a silenced JetPro on my RTR Baja 5B and the bolts stay put.I run a flat ignition file once or twice across the face of the split on each side of the washer to sharpen the split so it digs into the flange of the pipe and the bolt.I use stainless washers because they are harder than standard washers.Hope this helps.

Frank
 
Red High Temp RTV, smear the gaskets, and put a bit on the end of the bolts when you put them on. tighten and let set for 24hrs to cure. the red rtv seems to work great. the Blue and even the Red locktite just doesn't do well on the exhaust bolts, too much heat for it to take.

the best option in my opinion is to lose the bolts and go with studs and nuts.
 
You need to make sure the bolts are torqued the proper torque or they will back off. I also make sure to put some type of sealant on the outside of the bolts to make sure they don't vibrate loose. It is very important when using liquid locktight that you wait 24 hours for it to dry.
I use ZAPII sealant on the outside of all my bolts and screws throughout to insure no back out.

Torque settings: https://www.largescaleforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9272&postcount=2

the best option in my opinion is to lose the bolts and go with studs and nuts.

If mine fail ever again I will do the above! Stud and nuts!
 
I used a carbide drill bit..Low to medium speed..You want to see a spiral from the cap screw when drilling....center punch first so drill bit won't walk on you..I used stainless steel cap screws....slow and easy..use a little cutting oil...Give it a try...Next couple I do I will post a video doing it....All I have is a dremal ..mounted in a small press...
AKASlawhammer

Slawhammer uses the best way to make sure the screw dos not come out.
 
To drill in hard steel you want to regrind the drill angle. I use a TiNi bit reground to about 45 degrees each side so the tip forms 90 degree angle use slow to medium speed as slaw said and centre punch first. You'll get spiral swarf breaking off in short pieces which is the sign of a perfect cut.
 
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