- Messages
- 5,830
- Location
- Maryland, USA ??
Yup carb cleaner??
JT3 Vekta build log.
- Thread starter JT3
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
- Messages
- 1,065
- Location
- Southern California
thats probably why.
i just got a paper towel and wiped the screw threads
i just got a paper towel and wiped the screw threads
- Messages
- 444
- Location
- Florida
- Thread starter
- #43
With stuff this small IDK, but on my equipment at work I've put in bolts with red loctite and even under extreme pressures and hundreds of hours of non-stop vibration they never even came close to backing out. So be very careful what you put that stuff on lol...
- Messages
- 13,105
It depends on the application with the loctite. I've worked on rotary crushers and you have to use the green metal lock on every bolt and nut in the impactor. Red come loose after about an hour. If theres even a trace of oil or grease the red wont set up properly. Larger bolts don't seem to have the issues the smaller ones do. Easier to clean I suppose.
Also there is or was a accelerator/primer that loctite sold. I haven't used it often. But I remember it stank like crazy and cost a lot for the little bit you got. But man did it work. Turn blue into bolt crazy glue and red more or less set up if you took too long to tighten the bolt up.
Also there is or was a accelerator/primer that loctite sold. I haven't used it often. But I remember it stank like crazy and cost a lot for the little bit you got. But man did it work. Turn blue into bolt crazy glue and red more or less set up if you took too long to tighten the bolt up.
- Messages
- 1,065
- Location
- Southern California
- Messages
- 1,065
- Location
- Southern California
- Messages
- 444
- Location
- Florida
- Thread starter
- #48
So I got off work early today due to the weather and decided to start tearing apart the Vekta. I put in the TR steering link, the Vertigo upper steering brace, and the Vertigo chassis brace. I also put my shock boots on. I don't think I put the boots on the right way, they don't look as clean at top and bottom as most people's boots do, but I don't really care as I ordered blue and then ended up changing my mind about my color scheme afterward, so they won't be on long. Here's a few pics.
I also had my first casualty. My 3mm ball end hex (DDM) snapped off in the bolt that holds the chassis brace to the steering brace. I managed to get the ball out of the bolt with a couple of picks, a pair of needle nose pliers, and a magnetic pick up tool.
Side note... what do you guys use to work on the 1/5 vehicles in regards to a stand? I've been looking at the axis, but it's sold out everywhere.
I also had my first casualty. My 3mm ball end hex (DDM) snapped off in the bolt that holds the chassis brace to the steering brace. I managed to get the ball out of the bolt with a couple of picks, a pair of needle nose pliers, and a magnetic pick up tool.
Side note... what do you guys use to work on the 1/5 vehicles in regards to a stand? I've been looking at the axis, but it's sold out everywhere.
- Messages
- 1,065
- Location
- Southern California
I use the rigid stand from homedepot $30
They have the axis stand at Detroit performance for $99 plus shipping
https://www.detroitperformancerc.com/product-page/axis-stand-fixture
They have the axis stand at Detroit performance for $99 plus shipping
https://www.detroitperformancerc.com/product-page/axis-stand-fixture
- Messages
- 444
- Location
- Florida
- Thread starter
- #50
I like that ridgid stand, that's pretty nice. That $99 part at Detroit is only the top plate heh... the stand itself is like 400. But it has a tool tray built in and you can buy a swivel for it which lets you have the chassis facing you or away from you or whatever. It's just a ridiculous amount of money.
- Messages
- 1,065
- Location
- Southern California
Well god dayum!! I’m good with my $30 rigid stand. It’s adjustable too. Im gonna be modifying the stand so I can have a tray under. It’s gonna clamp on to the square tubing
- Messages
- 1,055
- Location
- Florida
+1 for the rigid stand. Can’t beat it for $30
Add some rubber tape to it so the Rc doesn’t slip off and it works sweet af
@crucialRC has a post about another stand you can piece together and it’s really nice ??
Add some rubber tape to it so the Rc doesn’t slip off and it works sweet af
@crucialRC has a post about another stand you can piece together and it’s really nice ??
- Messages
- 2,522
- Messages
- 5,830
- Location
- Maryland, USA ??
Here's the stands I use
- Messages
- 444
- Location
- Florida
- Thread starter
- #57
Thanks, bro.
@21bangbang Those t handles are freakin crazy expensive. Worth it over a normal t-handle?
- Messages
- 1,364
- Location
- Central New Jersey
My Team-EDS bits are freaking awesome and they stay in great shape and are a super tight fit in the allen heads you have to sort of tap them in or else they are pretty tight to get in there and super cheap.
- Messages
- 13,105
I run snap on t handles allen and torx. Had the same 3 sets for years and years now. Never broken one yet, never had a allen in good shape strip out.
- Messages
- 19,475
Since y'all are talking about hex bits, il throw my vote in (since my poop is always broke and I'm always wrenching ?). I use the DDM shorty bits (the long ones will be fine too , Shorty's were just so cheap). And bhondus t handles. Both are great options and have handled my abuse ,no problem. Also I have some kenexis/dynamite ones, but they are kinda poop.