Just ordered 2 t1000 trucks need advice

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fxdf1584

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Just ordered a pair of T1000 trucks, as from what i have been reading the servos seem to be an issue on them, what else should i be "expecting" to run into as for issues/problems?

Which spark plug works for the 30.5?
Which steering/throttle servos fit?
Do most pullstarts fit this motor?
Will the HPI 5T can fit this truck? (need it quieter than ss pipe)
RB Innovations pull start filter, good or bad?

I have never owned a 5th scale truck before, these look like awesome trucks!!
Any advice please I'm open to anything you all believe is a must know, thanks very much for any help! Extremely excited to finally have one of these trucks! I also do plan on checking diff fluid lever, lock-tite everything, and soon to be getting a killer bee, i believe those are definitely in the top 5, if I'm wrong please do correct me! Thanks again everyone!

http://www.kingmotorrc.com/30_5cc_T1000_Baja_Desert_Truck_p/km112.htm
 
fxdf1584 said:
Just ordered a pair of T1000 trucks, as from what i have been reading the servos seem to be an issue on them, what else should i be "expecting" to run into as for issues/problems?

Which spark plug works for the 30.5?
Which steering/throttle servos fit?
Do most pullstarts fit this motor?
Will the HPI 5T can fit this truck? (need it quieter than ss pipe)
RB Innovations pull start filter, good or bad?

I have never owned a 5th scale truck before, these look like awesome trucks!!
Any advice please I'm open to anything you all believe is a must know, thanks very much for any help! Extremely excited to finally have one of these trucks! I also do plan on checking diff fluid lever, lock-tite everything, and soon to be getting a killer bee, i believe those are definitely in the top 5, if I'm wrong please do correct me! Thanks again everyone!

http://www.kingmotorrc.com/30_5cc_T1000_Baja_Desert_Truck_p/km112.htm
Click to expand...

get kill switches first and foremost
spark plug ngk CMR7H gapped at .027
hitec large scale servos, or the savox 0235/0236
i believe all the pull starters out there fit just fine
as for pipe if you use the can you wont get the power range out of it that a tuned pipe will give you
i beleive i am the only one on here that uses the pull start filters
and i like them i have no issues with them and they work just fine to keep out sand and large debris, i also added the prefilter to them to keep the filter fins clear of small debris,these are easy to switch from engine to engine no removing tapes or anything remove 4 front screws and 2 side, its ready to remount in a few minutes
but these are my preference and i like them better then the outwares
 
depending on the clutch setup they come with, you may need to upgrade to an all metal setup. The plastic clutch carriers tend to melt from the heat. the hpi baja's have the same issue.
 
killer bee kill switches firstmost. a prefilter for airfilter, if you cant afford the case cover filter do the screen mod mentioned around here, to prevent rocks from gettin in and chewin up the flywheel. my servos still worked jusrt fine but i swapped for better ones, a hitec5755 and a hitec 7955T. just bout any ps will fit, and thats another issue, they will bork up, so replace it with one that has the collar around the pawl, as the uncollared ones allow thw pawl to cock sideways and jam and bend up ps parts makin it useless. the collared kind solves this issue. you will prolly break a few parts, so get a set of rpm arms as backups. on mine i strengtheneed up the topside by replaceing plastic braces with alloy ones, specially shock mounts. leave a arms plastic or the rpm arms. use your head and leave certain areas plastic for break points , cuz a all alloy truck will have no give on impacts, therefore bending wwil occur and new parts will be needed. by leaving certain places like the a arms plastic, theyll give and leave alloy areas unharmed.

i did also add a vstack to my carb setup, it added a lil more power to motor.
remember: strengthing up with alloy is good, but don't go all alloy all over, i reccommend topside alloying up but leave front and rear bumpers areas plastic, and a arms. oh yeah the clutch is issue, do as recommended there too, go alloy on that, and brakes go with D's and TR one peice brake assembly
 
what do you guys recommend for the clutch? just a billit carrier? after the initial purchase its gonna take a little saving up to afford the rest, as of now super bee kill switch is on the list for sure, and most likely start with a outerwear crank case cover to start, and then just replace as things wear out, maybe have a pullstart on hand, arms etc..

as for the clutch situation, do you recommend enclosed? any particular make/model? maybe a somewhat cheaper route that works great, i don't race or compete at all, just enjoy the hobby. sorry for the never ending questions, as i said before this is my first 5th scale and i really wanna do this right. thanks again!
 
well i tried a fully enclosed one and it made too much heat when i attempted to run it, so i changed to a alloy 3 point carrier just like original design. mine used the larger sized bearing than stock. its worked perfect for me so far
 
Is there a certain brand or style of 3 point carrier that you guys like best? It seems any would do the job fine.

How about exhaust? Iv heard the side dom is "quieter" but does it fit on the 5t without modifications? Or I was thinking go with the xcan as well.. thanks for the advice!!
 
i think the 3 point billet carrier i got was a TR brand. it was setup to use the larger fast eddy bearing, than the stock smaller one. for a pipe just look into a tuned pipe, they can be got fairly cheap if you look around.

the enclosed carrier is good for a area where possible lil rocks and debris can get in and chew up the shoes. if your not plannin on running in that type areas, the 3 point billet will work great for you like mine has.
 
very very weak plastic, motors run very stront and start fast, everything seems to be working great, but yesterday we were on our 2nd tank and had a very slow collision, one truck ran into the other trucks tire and it broke the plastic off the bottom of the shock shaft, and most everything connected to the shock tower, and i would say going roughly 4mph at most...walking speed... other than that everything seems good, curious if anyone else had plastic that brittle
 
If it was cold outside when you ran the trucks, the cold makes plastic parts very brittle and they break very easily.:(
 
Lan-Ed-Tul said:
well i tried a fully enclosed one and it made too much heat when i attempted to run it, so i changed to a alloy 3 point carrier just like original design. mine used the larger sized bearing than stock. its worked perfect for me so far
Click to expand...

Just want to add if you run with an open clutch bell carrier this will basically eliminate you running in sand dunes or dusty gravel surfaces as the clutch don't agree with these conditions

Troy
 
OuttaLuck said:
Just want to add if you run with an open clutch bell carrier this will basically eliminate you running in sand dunes or dusty gravel surfaces as the clutch don't agree with these conditions

Troy
Click to expand...

yes i know that, thot i mentioned that if you were to run in sand youd need the fully enclosed over 3 point carriers. it was a seperate post after the one you quoted
 
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