Let's talk race setups w/pics of rigs

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ccpm raptor

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108
Let's see what's others are doing.
Currently running 10-15-5 in diffs
45wt front 35wt rear
Rebuild in progress.
 

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Me, my son and brother for the first time last year raced 3day event at blue ridge nationals at the apex center Wytheville Va. Matthew Olson owner of MOD came and raced and video it. It was inside event so weather doesn't matter. Josh brought in a track builder from the west coast. We are Signed up to do the summer sizzler this year too along with blue ridge nationals again. Awesome time. "Not me but a fellow racer, Barth"
 

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Nice I’m planning on going out to blue ridge nationals also👍 It’s hard talking about fluids because it’s highly dependent on specific track and conditions. I highly recommend the mod clutch and tlr hinge pin braces for race rigs though. The mod clutch is extremely light and reducing rotational mass helps a lot👍88F2BCF3-99F4-4E20-B21C-90B94DAB3B6B.jpeg42B2BEB0-0768-4402-8990-D78B7EC38687.jpeg
 
Sweet! Yeah bought the mod clutch from Matthew but never installed until this week.
I ended up with his v4 shocks too. Man they are nice.
Summer sizzler is the same event begins 7/23 ends 7/25
 

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Right now just two times a year. 😩 Other than those two times just the three of us running. Looking at building a small track for us to run. But this year my son and I are racing dirt oval.
We are racing converted hpi and king motor 5t's. I race stock modified and Caleb is racing stock latemodel
Where do you race?
 

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Right now just two times a year. 😩 Other than those two times just the three of us running. Looking at building a small track for us to run. But this year my son and I are racing dirt oval.
We are racing converted hpi and king motor 5t's. I race stock modified and Caleb is racing stock latemodel
Where do you race?
Long Island, Connecticut and New Hampshire
 
Might have to make a trip out. Have a buddy up New Hampshire too. We where looking at doing TBLR Midwest outdoor championships. But possible bad weather scared me a little. 18 hr drive to be possibly be rained out one of three days.
 
Is there parts support at these bigger events you guys travel to?

Let's see what's others are doing.
Currently running 10-15-5 in diffs
45wt front 35wt rear
Rebuild in progress.

What kind of dirt are you running on, dusty and slick or hard and compact? Does that 5k in the rear cause you to get squirrely? I just bought a 5ive-T and race on Long Island w/ misterleon too. I'm a newb still when it comes to suspension and diff setup but when I had the 5k in my Baja it wouldn't even drive in a straight line which is what makes me ask about yours.
 
we are pretty new too. for us on dirt oval with the baja. we run 500,000 in the diff. hard packed clay with rc for less tires and green foams. The losi is just like it is on rails with the four wheel drive. The Blue Ridge Nationals track was also hard packed clay. We ran the recommended 10-15-05 by matthew olson. stock tires and foams. we did fine. a little push in turns, i think loss of traction to hit he jumps. Tires and foams where to hard. Going to run this time reflex pin tires. We ran pretty much stock right out the box that time. Bought my 2.0 with 32 for $550. My son got got his 1.0 with 26 for $400. he was able to hit and clear the jumps just as well as us. We all had our problems and could not finish the 20 min main just three out of 11 could. My engine I think vapor locked at around 18mins because of the innovations insulator block. ( could not prime the bulb until it cooled). that was the first time we put them on a track and sent them 15 plus feet in the air or jumped for that matter. I ended up 4th, my brother 5th and my son 6th. Hooked since
 
Rb innovations stuff is garbage. I'm actually surprised to see your running such light diff fluids. I would have went something like a 30k 100k 20k for a first race set up. Keep your power transfer a bit more even. Matt would be a better one to know though. I don't race.
 
Rb innovations stuff is garbage. I'm actually surprised to see your running such light diff fluids. I would have went something like a 30k 100k 20k for a first race set up. Keep your power transfer a bit more even. Matt would be a better one to know though. I don't race.
The lighter oils keep your rig more stable, predictable and turns better. If you lose grip it’s better to lose power to the wheels than keep everything moving possibly sending you out of control.
 
The lighter oils keep your rig more stable, predictable and turns better. If you lose grip it’s better to lose power to the wheels than keep everything moving possibly sending you out of control.
But even lighter then factory? I can see the front and rear diff being light for that reason. That makes sense. But even the center. Good grief seems as though you'd be pulling the car around the track instead of evenly distributing the power front to rear. 🤷‍♂️
 
But even lighter then factory? I can see the front and rear diff being light for that reason. That makes sense. But even the center. Good grief seems as though you'd be pulling the car around the track instead of evenly distributing the power front to rear. 🤷‍♂️
Most time gained or lost is in corners. on a track every single rig is the same speed on most straights with the difference between a stock zenoah and a obr 34 reed being very negligible. Plus most long straights have jumps
 
Rb innovations stuff is garbage. I'm actually surprised to see your running such light diff fluids. I would have went something like a 30k 100k 20k for a first race set up. Keep your power transfer a bit more even. Matt would be a better one to know though. I don't race.
I would agree about RB now. I thought at the time keeping dirt out of the carb's diaphragm was a good idea. Lesson learned.
 
I would agree about RB now. I thought at the time keeping dirt out of the carb's diaphragm was a good idea. Lesson learned.
There is a mod you can do to to it, if your really worried about it. You'll need 2 nipples and a small length of hose. Basically you install one nipple in the vent hole. Normally some epoxy or what not is helpful to make sure it stays in place. Grind down the inside of the nipple so it's flush with the plate. Second nipple goes in-between the carb and air filter. Doesn't really matter where so long as it's in front of the carb and after the filter. Attach hose in-between. You've just done 2 things. Made a pressure compensating carb (will limit diaphragm movement if the filter gets plugged up badly, keeping the engine from running pig rich) and filtered the diaphragm air. It's pretty std on all saws now a days. Works well. No extra fancy stuff needed.
 
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