MCD Rally X4 Difference

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myrcbud

Well-Known Member
Messages
589
Location
Astoria, Oregon
Looking at possibly getting a MCD Rally here in the near future. Can anyone tell me the major differences between the Factory Team, Competition, and Sport? besides the price and engine size. I'll probably get it without the engine and put the savings toward a good pipe. If I get the sport version, is there something major that I would need from the other editions of the other cars to have a could running vehicle?
 
Hiya.

I would avoid the sport version, it comes with plastic shocks, round outdrives and plastic gears.

For a little more the Competition comes with alloy shocks, steel gears and hex outdrives. The steel gears obviously last longer and the hex outdrives give a much more secure fitting for the drive cups.

The factory team, if you can get one, might include upgrades such as the lightened chassis (confusingly called the competition chassis!). And some other goodies.

Competition is your best bet. And some Blue spot tyres to go with it - they last ages and give the same sort of grip as the stock white spots.

I had an X4 and sold it and built myself a 'Proline Rally', which was the version before the X4. It's much more a proper road car. The X4 wasn't that bad, just very 'flexible'.

To be honest though, I now regret it and think I should have gone for the FG 4wd road car. Mainly due to it using a more standard tyre size and having loads more upgrades, including the front one way for mega steering :)
 
Thank you for the advice Ive. I'm now leaning towards the Competition. I have a FG Sportsline 4WD and love it, but looking for something different.

Do you know if the Comp comes with a gear cover? I know I should ask the retailer, but figured I'd ask here.
 
Here is a newb question on 1/5 scale.

I prefer rally racing but what would be the difference between the new Mini WRC and FG, X4?

I need to be educated and have not made my purchase yet.

TIA
 
What are some of the necessary up grades that are needed thinking about buying one

I know this topic is a bit dated but I'll give some insight for those looking to buy one or own one.

Number one problem I had was with the plastic shock forks, I buy them in bulk because man I blow them to pieces every few runs. It actually compounded into a bigger problem when a failure happened and bent a shock shaft and broken upper arms . I have not been able to find the aluminum ones locally for a while they used to make them. I have one installed and lost the other waiting for another to break. Honestly it may be in your best interest to look into finding a local machine shop to make you some out of 6061 aluminum.

My second was with the upper arms, they are soft and in my experience flex a lot, perhaps leading to my shock fork problem. Or the other way around. Last one I had fail blew up my front cvd.

Honestly haven't had many other issues besides using cheap servos. You want to get the best quality metal gear servos you can for the lot. The throttle servo also controls breaking and you always want plenty of force there. The steering is really important as well, these cars are quite heavy and when blasting off a curb, dirt hill, or even a divot there is substantial force there that will demo poor quality servos.

I know some people were having issues with warping gear carriers but I've not had that issue. My only other recommendation is put some holes in the windshield to improve airflow for the filter and to cool the engine, and components. I usually also put a couple in the back to let excess air out and prevent it from pulling hard on the body causing tears.

If you buy without the motor or buy a kit with a motor I would try to get a zenoah personally. The cy motors are not bad, but the ultimate reliability comes in form of a zenoah in most cases. The motor mine came with (cy) isn't bad, but the zenoahs in my old fg cars were beasts and ran for ages. I would run those cars through several tanks a day for days on end, I can't think of one I had to rebuild. My cy got rebuilt after one year of less intense driving. Either way, my understanding is you have to modify the case specifically for these cars. The place I got it from did the modifications for me for a few bucks. Something to keep in mind when you buy an engine.
 
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