Metal Engine mounts

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
You should at least get the large one & if your going to go to the trouble to install it then for a couple of dollars more I would recommend doing the small one also.

Doing this will help prevent poor mesh between the diff and layshaft gear.

I would suggest this to be a must do upgrade.
 
Gotcha! I think the reason the 14-tooth pinion on the lay shaft came off was probably because of the plastic engine mount. I did take the truck apart to replace the layshaft, layshaft bearings, both engine mounts, diff, diff sleeve. I also put the silicone sealant around top and bottom edge of the diff sleeve. So part wise, I think my FG is in a much better shape now.

Next issue, I didn't take pictures before disassembling the truck. The FG manual trully sucks. I know, I suck too. Does anybody have close-up pics of the rear of the FG MT where the layshaft is without the engine on?

I appreciate the help from this community. You guys rock.
 
Thanks all for your replies.

Next problem: with the old plastic engine mount, I can press fit in the layshaft bearing easily. With the new aluminum engine mount, I can't seem to press in the bearing. Do I need a different bearing for aluminum engine mount?

Thanks in advance.
 
rctrucker said:
Thanks all for your replies.

Next problem: with the old plastic engine mount, I can press fit in the layshaft bearing easily. With the new aluminum engine mount, I can't seem to press in the bearing. Do I need a different bearing for aluminum engine mount?

Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...

Good question: I put the alloy engine mount on a piece of timber and used a socket with a hammer and tapped it in, make sure you (a) don't dent the sheild and (b) don't hit the inner ring.

Another method is to warm up the alloy part in the oven and it should expand making it easier to fit the bearing.
 
Back
Top