My 5iveT v1.5 basher build thread

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Thanx fellas
And no major plans only thing I did so far was install a big ol air filter and str8 piped it from the turbo back ?
These 12v’s sound sweet bone stock
I also added some window tints 5%
About the only other thing I wanna do is upgrade the lights. It’s got the stock headlights can’t see shît at night ?

its a 1996 single cab 12 valve with only 120k bought it from the original owner

@Rep732 I could have sold just 1 5iveT and I would have had enough cash to buy this truck & register it and filled err up with a few bucks to spare ??‍♂️???
 
Original asking price was $2,000 but after driving it around it had a problem where it kept dying at start up and while driving at low Rpms and bottom doors of cab got rust but mainly was the engine stalling that allowed me to bargain out a $800 cash deal ??
After doing some online searching I found out these 12v are sweet af and relatively easy to tinker with ....
the stalling problem turned out to be a free fix. All I had to do was adjust my idle screw which took 5 minutes and baby was running and whistling beautiful lol
 
Original asking price was $2,000 but after driving it around it had a problem where it kept dying at start up and while driving at low Rpms and bottom doors of cab got rust but mainly was the engine stalling that allowed me to bargain out a $800 cash deal ??
After doing some online searching I found out these 12v are sweet af and relatively easy to tinker with ....
the stalling problem turned out to be a free fix. All I had to do was adjust my idle screw which took 5 minutes and baby was running and whistling beautiful lol
$800 bucks ? I'll be at $615 for just my 34,cc engine when complete ?
 
@Basher5iveT420 look up 12v "p-pump" free mods. You'll have that thing cooking tires in no time

A good friend of mine got a 97 sclb 3500 5 speed 4x4 for 2500 bucks. Completely rust free which is super rare here. Granted the interior is a disaster but he's been slowly putting it back together. And he looked up the build sheet and it was a factory 3500 single rear wheel. Had a Dana 70 in the rear
 
There arnt many "free mods" to making good reliable power. There are a few cheap mods. But you quickly run out of turbo, and the stick clutch cant take a lot of power, the auto trans arw a train wreck till built properly. The easier cheaper mods, arw the mack full travel plug, and getting or making another fuel plate. Modded delivery valves can help as well. Depending in the power level your after, a decent set of 90hp injectors go a long way. Somewhere around 50ish lbs of boost and the head gasket will blow. I know plenty of guys that were happy at 40lbs and didn't have to sink tons of money into their trucks to keep them reliable. By far the best upgrade imo is getting the 3k rpm springs, if not already done. 5k is more fun if your set up right ?. But that normally requires a lot of supporting mods first.
Oh I forgot to mention giving the timing a few more degrees helps out as well, but as anyone should suggest, a pyro, boost, and fuel pressure gauge should be priority before any engine mods are done. Cummins is a wonderful engine, and I would own few others, but if you don't know what's going on with the engine it's as good as dead. I got the melted down proof sitting in my basement if you don't believe me.
 
@Seandonato73 now this topic i can go head to head with you. You can add 100hp to the truck by removing the fuel plate or buying or cutting your old one. Turning up the star wheel "prefueling" sliding the afc housing forward. Turning up the fuel screw before "run away" and I ran an hx35 turbo on my VE 12v and it was 5 speed with a getrag 360. The clutch let go before the trans gave up...diesels are not gas engines. They are very surprising beasts... ive had 4 cummins trucks at various levels of modding.
EGT gauge is a must.. you don't wont to be over 1200 degrees for more than what would be a 1/4 mile pull. If it climbs very fast you have more fuel than air and you need a bigger turbo.. fuel pressure comes in if you do an aftermarket lift pump.. the stock lift pump will see its limit very fast after the " free" mods..After all my career is a DIESEL mechanic I should know this...and melting a piston is staying in the throttle longer than you should have
 
@Seandonato73 now this topic i can go head to head with you. You can add 100hp to the truck by removing the fuel plate or buying or cutting your old one. Turning up the star wheel "prefueling" sliding the afc housing forward. Turning up the fuel screw before "run away" and I ran an hx35 turbo on my VE 12v and it was 5 speed with a getrag 360. The clutch let go before the trans gave up...diesels are not gas engines. They are very surprising beasts... ive had 4 cummins trucks at various levels of modding.
EGT gauge is a must.. you don't wont to be over 1200 degrees for more than what would be a 1/4 mile pull. If it climbs very fast you have more fuel than air and you need a bigger turbo.. fuel pressure comes in if you do an aftermarket lift pump.. the stock lift pump will see its limit very fast after the " free" mods..After all my career is a DIESEL mechanic I should know this...and melting a piston is staying in the throttle longer than you should have
Yeah diesel mechanic as well. And the rack stuck in the pump after trying a "free mod" retiming the barrels is best done on the pump bench, that was a costly mistake I learned dearly from. My first gen was arguably my favorite 12v. The VE did well enough with out jumping up to the 14mm head. Between the 4mm cam plate, increasing the internal fuel pressure and maxing the full fuel out, it ran quite well. Ddp injectors, s362, air dog df165. Needed to make a retaining plate for the front seal of the injection pump. 15psi wasnt enough delivery pressure. Also ended up getting the pump shop to reset the gov spring for 4k rpm. I never dynoed that truck, I would guess somewhere around 400hp is. Fuel was an issue with that. My first p pump, build was at right out of high school, so free power was a must as I didnt have a lot of money, hence the sticking the rack and melting the engine down. Ended up with a rebuilt pump from industrial injection, quick fuel cam was the only upgrade I could afford on it, with having to get another bottom end. That just got the top studded, 5x.020" injectors, air dog df165, 100 fuel plate, modified AFC for full travel, and backed by a stainless diesel s362. I hated the nv4500. 5th was a constant issue going out in it. Needed money so I ended up selling it off. Really didnt care for the dodge part of the truck. Just cheaply built interior and it had a lot of front end issues. After that I decided to resurrect my 79 ford super cab, bought a 94 for a donor truck. At this point I was working for the machine shop and had all the resources to build a good engine. Engine came down to bare block, crank balanced for 5k, main bore alignment corrected, bottom end studded, brass cam bearings installed, colt stage 4 cam, larger valve, high rate valve springs, titanium retainers, o ringed head, 14mm studs up top, .020 over head gasket, 6x 0.018" Injectors, needle work, and edge filter removed, laser cut DV, pump reset for full rack travel, full travel afc mods, afc live, 45lb afc spring. (Wish I would have jumped to a 13mm pump or got the quick fuel cam installed in it, didn't have the extra money at the time and wanted the truck finished as I had sold my first get to finish funding this build ?) air dog df200, set at 70psi. South bed ddc. Billet input shaft (not at first, then I snapped it, and had to get a new clutch and the bigger Input shaft) right at this time I literally ran out of money, so I ended up stuffing a s360 on it. Which needless to say was not near enough air. But I just got married, bought a house, and most importantly needed a truck again. Now some time has gone by, and I have a stainless diesel s364 for it, and a twin kit with a s475, to on top of the s360. Problem is, the truck needs a frame swap and I haven't had the time to do it. That engine how it sit dynoed 479hp at the crank. I had to dial the fuel way back, to make it a nice driver with that little turbo. Now that it's back to toy status, I just need to settle on which turbo set up I want to go with/ if the twin set up will fit under the hood of the 79, and I'll sell off the other set up, to fund a 13 or 14 mm injection pump. I may have to go back and have the head and deck machined for fire rings as I'd like to up from 50lbs to 90 or 100lbs. May have to get a girdle too. But that's for after it's on it's new frame. Od like to swap up to a 6 speed as well, as I really like the one in my old 07 3500 I had for a service truck, it wasnt near as problematic at the nv4500 has been, in either of the trucks I've had with them. Truthfully if I cant come up with a decent 6 speed when the time comes, I'll likely opt to for a built auto trans. I like rowing gears, but once you hit the power levels I'm used to having the stick shift becomes an endless money pit, and straight cut gears are noisy as hell.
 
Jesus H christ @Seandonato73 we get each other lol. I give it to you your on the money. Seems like this is a dm convo I don't wanna take away from the thread lol. And the nv4500's were weak.. I somehow lucked out on my getrag she was a good runner.
Yeah for sure.... diesel nut till I'm dead lol.
Didn't know y'all were bilingual ??
We were speaking engine, just a more advanced form then your used to ?

@Basher5iveT420 sorry mate, didnt mean to take away from. Your new truck.
 
my performance mods were the big air intake and str8 turbo back exhaust. I don’t want a fast truck I like it slow, reliable and LOUD ?I drive like a old man.
been keeping track of my MPG’s, man this truck is awesome I’m averaging 19.5 MPG
My daily gives me 9MPG ??‍♂️???

almost every free mod I can do, can potentially cause harm to my tranny so I ain’t doing any power mods

and it’s all good fellas I don’t mind the thread derailment I don’t even own a 5-scale any mo, I’m in a Rc forum talking bout my diesel ????
 
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