My Traveller

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monster

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Location
Sydney
Hi Guys,

Noobie here. Just want to share my new toy a "Traveller":) Got it 2nd hand with CY26 engine, alloy engine mounts, elcon spur gear, etc. Added a few blings like DPS Alloy lower arms, rear uprights and gear carrier, Jetpro tune pipe. Done a few mods like replacing the front body mounts will alloy and skid gear cover, extending the front bumper and adding charging point:cool2:
 

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More pics:cool2:
 

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Oh and some pics of my Titan showing extended front bumper, locked center diff, elcon conical springs in drive cups to keep those dog bones centered and located the switch coz I have a fat finger:helpsmilie:

I'm also using TGN pipe and it does help the bottom end...
 

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Oh and some pics of my Titan showing extended front bumper, locked center diff, elcon conical springs in drive cups to keep those dog bones centered and located the switch coz I have a fat finger:helpsmilie:

I'm also using TGN pipe and it does help the bottom end...

hi monster thats looking good man iv got tgn for my fg mt and your right about the bottom end dose help but im not to keen on the alu exstended bumper i think u could beter go with plastic ones you no more flex

hey and how do you go about that then with those springs and what do they cost and where from dose it work sorry for the quiz
 
hi monster thats looking good man iv got tgn for my fg mt and your right about the bottom end dose help but im not to keen on the alu exstended bumper i think u could beter go with plastic ones you no more flex

hey and how do you go about that then with those springs and what do they cost and where from dose it work sorry for the quiz

Thanks mate. The flex is still there, all I did was extend the bumper mounting points so the shell sits behind the bumper not over it.

Were you referring to the Elcon conical springs in the drive cups? If so, they cost a few dollars from PowerSlide Racing. They are good, keeps the dog bones centered which will prevent popping off:cool2:
 
Thanks mate. The flex is still there, all I did was extend the bumper mounting points so the shell sits behind the bumper not over it.

Were you referring to the Elcon conical springs in the drive cups? If so, they cost a few dollars from PowerSlide Racing. They are good, keeps the dog bones centered which will prevent popping off:cool2:

yes i was thanks very much
 
One nice looking upgraded buggy. I always hated the way the switch was located behind the front tire, I always thought a rock would bounce up and hit it off.
 
We've been bashing with rock and grass and so far no hit. It's pretty much tucked away.

Oh and thanks for your comments.............lol
 
Hi Guys and Gals,

Just want to show off my new wheels and rims:devil:

The sets on the left are my stocker and the one on the right are FG Buggy tires:2guns:

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I love the new wheels...they look awesome! :2guns:
The theory of big wheels/faster speeds is very interesting.

The Traveller moves forward at the same rate as the velocity (v) at the bottom point of the wheel. This depends on the rotational speed (w) of the wheel AND its radius (r), given by the equation:

v = wr

So, it would seem, increasing the radius r would make the Traveller go faster, right?

Not so fast. The rotational acceleration (aw) a depends on two things: the torque (T) and the rotational inertia (I). This relationship is

aw = T/I

This is similar to simple acceleration.

a = F/m

where 'a' is the acceleration, 'F' is the force, and 'm' is the mass (another name for inertia).

You may be saying "Good, I can maximize the angular acceleration with my excess torque!" But you run into a MAJOR problem -- the angular inertia. For a wheel, it equals

I = m r**2 / 2

Note that it depends on mass and the SQUARE of the radius. If you double the radius, you quadruple I. And here's another problem -- the mass the wheel. It ALSO increases as the square of the radius. So if you double the radius, you increase I by a factor of 16! It gets harder for the engine to accelerate the wheel.

Now it gets complicated.:hammer::hammer: You have two torques. One is supplied from the motor, the other is the friction from the gears AND the road. Friction is a complicated function of velocity, USUALLY it depends on the square of how fast things are going. Thus, the maximum w you can reach will depend on (1) the engine's torque, (2) the gear friction, (3) the friction between the wheel and the road (if there is none, the wheel will spin MUCH more rapidly -- but you won't get anywhere!) and (4) the rotational inertia. (3) depends on the frictional coefficient of the surface the wheel is on, which I couldn't measure even if I were there. It all really DOES add up, but not in a simple way.

Yeah....it might go faster!....:lol:
 
where did you get the alloy carrier,....I been looking along time for one thats all I need to finish my alloy hammer which is also the travellers cousin:)

attachment.php


this is my hammer

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I got them from Daniel His gear carrier is awesome. You might have to ask them if they ship OS.

Btw, nice ride:2guns:
 
I love the new wheels...they look awesome! :2guns:
The theory of big wheels/faster speeds is very interesting.

The Traveller moves forward at the same rate as the velocity (v) at the bottom point of the wheel. This depends on the rotational speed (w) of the wheel AND its radius (r), given by the equation:

v = wr

So, it would seem, increasing the radius r would make the Traveller go faster, right?

Not so fast. The rotational acceleration (aw) a depends on two things: the torque (T) and the rotational inertia (I). This relationship is

aw = T/I

This is similar to simple acceleration.

a = F/m

where 'a' is the acceleration, 'F' is the force, and 'm' is the mass (another name for inertia).

You may be saying "Good, I can maximize the angular acceleration with my excess torque!" But you run into a MAJOR problem -- the angular inertia. For a wheel, it equals

I = m r**2 / 2

Note that it depends on mass and the SQUARE of the radius. If you double the radius, you quadruple I. And here's another problem -- the mass the wheel. It ALSO increases as the square of the radius. So if you double the radius, you increase I by a factor of 16! It gets harder for the engine to accelerate the wheel.

Now it gets complicated.:hammer::hammer: You have two torques. One is supplied from the motor, the other is the friction from the gears AND the road. Friction is a complicated function of velocity, USUALLY it depends on the square of how fast things are going. Thus, the maximum w you can reach will depend on (1) the engine's torque, (2) the gear friction, (3) the friction between the wheel and the road (if there is none, the wheel will spin MUCH more rapidly -- but you won't get anywhere!) and (4) the rotational inertia. (3) depends on the frictional coefficient of the surface the wheel is on, which I couldn't measure even if I were there. It all really DOES add up, but not in a simple way.

Yeah....it might go faster!....:lol:

Let me finish my degree and I'll get back to you:clown:
 
Those tires look hot on that model! I see you switched out to FG shock in the rear too. I did the same and it really smoothed out the bounce.
 
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