New Rovan Terminator on the way, need upgrade feedback

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Polar_Bus

Polar_Bus

Well-Known Member
Messages
754
Hello guys,
Totally new to 1/5 gas. I was a former 1/8 nitro guy way back in the early 2000's but sold almost everything from being a new home owner poor. Jump to presant day and I want back in to "fuel RC" . I decided that with my solid 2S background a 1/5 gas was a great choice. I'm also a CNC machinist by trade so i'm quite good with my hands, I also restore older vintage motorcycles. I'd like some feedback opinions on what would be the best upgrades to enhance reliability as far as chassis strengthening. I have NO desire at this time to pull more power (that comes later after much driving time). Not looking to the most expensive Barney bling, I was a hardcore Savage 25 guy back in the day and learned a LOT of what to mod (upgrade to aluminum), and equally important what to leave alone (keep plastic). I plan on a complete disassembly and "blueprinting" so to speak of the trans and diffs to ensure nice snug tolerances. Any chronic component weaknesses you could share would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance !
 
Hi, congrats on ur new terminator!! so i say you get an aluminum clutch carrier as the stock one likes to warp, kill switch is a MUST and I would get the killer rc one, new air filter and velocity stack and redneck and outer wear cuz the stock filter sucks to remove I say the short stack uni filter, volt watch, spare spark plugs, that's really it imo, its a pretty solid truck. oh since your gonna be removing the transmission I would go thicker in the diff as stock oil is light. the only things I've really broken on mine before i started my engine build was a throttle servo wore out a lot of tires. now I have some tips for you, don't use the stock radio it range sucks, don't buy rovan tires they're complete trash, don't buy rovan electronics they're trash, don't run 25:1 because it's a headache to tune imo, don't use lawnmower grade oil, use klotz, motul 800, amsoil dominator, castor 927 just to name a few, don't buy random spark plugs because I've done that and have had tuning issues, don't buy rovan carburetors cuz they suck to tune, don't buy into any kind of "boost" cuz its snake oil, use ethanol stabilizer in ur fuel becuase ethanol likes to mess up the diaphrams in the carb and the fuel lines, and most of all, HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!
volt watch http://www.davesmotors.com/VoltWatch2-4-8V-6V-Rx-Battery-Monitor-HCAP0332.html
clutch carrier http://www.davesmotors.com/billet-enclosed-clutch-drum-carrier-for-hpi-baja-5b-5t-5sc.html
kill switch http://www.davesmotors.com/Killer-RC-Super-Bee-Failsafe-Kill-Switch-Combo.html
airfilter http://www.davesmotors.com/Angled-Short-Stack-Uni-Air-Filter-1-75-height-3258.html
velocity stack http://www.davesmotors.com/ddm-velocity-stack-3-4-height.html
outerwear http://www.davesmotors.com/outerwears-for-tgn-short-stack-uni-air-filter-losi-5ive-stock-filter.html
redneck http://www.davesmotors.com/Redneck-Prefilter-for-Short-Stack-Unifilters-3228.html
spark plug http://www.davesmotors.com/ngk-cmr7h-spark-plug-ngk3066-fg-07343-08.html
 
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Z.hb71,
Thanks a ton for the experienced feedback and the links (saves me much time guaranteeing buying the right items)! I am a hardcore Klotz guy, been running it in various 2s applications for the past 25 years. I have 2 gallons of the Klotz Super Techniplate. I'm glad you chimed in on the filter suggestions. Very few people understand how critical a quality filter is to the reliable longevity of a high rpm 2s in dirt environments. I love Uni's also Twin Air. I do know of the importance of the electronic fail safe, and already have one on order. I always ran the Ofna Fail safes on my Savages.
 
Polar_Bus said:
Z.hb71,
Thanks a ton for the experienced feedback and the links (saves me much time guaranteeing buying the right items)! I am a hardcore Klotz guy, been running it in various 2s applications for the past 25 years. I have 2 gallons of the Klotz Super Techniplate. I'm glad you chimed in on the filter suggestions. Very few people understand how critical a quality filter is to the reliable longevity of a high rpm 2s in dirt environments. I love Uni's also Twin Air. I do know of the importance of the electronic fail safe, and already have one on order. I always ran the Ofna Fail safes on my Savages.
Click to expand...
Ur always welcome ??. Also u can call me Z or Zee cuz Z.hb71 is kinda a mouth full
 
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Guys,
I watched a few vids on rebuilding the diffs, great info. I'm not quite sure as to what viscosity fluid to run, i'm seeing opinions all over the place. Looks like most of the experienced guys are running 1K-3K ? Again my first 2wd 1/5 that just going to be a sand/dirt basher so looking for a suggestion. My truck is arriving Monday so just in full research mode right now.
 
Polar_Bus said:
Guys,
I watched a few vids on rebuilding the diffs, great info. I'm not quite sure as to what viscosity fluid to run, i'm seeing opinions all over the place. Looks like most of the experienced guys are running 1K-3K ? Again my first 2wd 1/5 that just going to be a sand/dirt basher so looking for a suggestion. My truck is arriving Monday so just in full research mode right now.[/QUOTE
Click to expand...

To be honest I wouldn't rebuild the diff. right away unless you plan on upgrading it right away . When I took mine apart there was plenty of oil in it (Rovan) . Also something to remember . As much as Rovan says all the parts are interchangeable with HPI parts. Not everything is some of the tolerances are off just a little bit . I've been finding that out as I've been upgrading parts on my 5B.

An example is the internal parts for the Rovan diff will not fit inside an authentic HPI diff. They are to big.
 
Technically i'm not looking to "rebulid" the diff, i'm more looking to disassemble and measure the ring / pinion and spider gear backlash to determine if shimming would be a prudent to ensure reliability. Probably switch to the 10K fluid while i'm in there. Thanks very much for the non-interchange info on the diff. While were on the subject of interchangibility, i'm probably going to purchase a midrange torque pipe that's silenced. I've reached out to DDM but they are not 100% sure the HPI Baja pipe will fit my Rovan Terminator. Do you by chance know if the HPI Baja pipes interchange with the Rovan ? If I need to perform small mods to get the pipe to fit that's NO problem. Thanks !
 
Polar_Bus said:
Technically i'm not looking to "rebulid" the diff, i'm more looking to disassemble and measure the ring / pinion and spider gear backlash to determine if shimming would be a prudent to ensure reliability. Probably switch to the 10K fluid while i'm in there. Thanks very much for the non-interchange info on the diff. While were on the subject of interchangibility, i'm probably going to purchase a midrange torque pipe that's silenced. I've reached out to DDM but they are not 100% sure the HPI Baja pipe will fit my Rovan Terminator. Do you by chance know if the HPI Baja pipes interchange with the Rovan ? If I need to perform small mods to get the pipe to fit that's NO problem. Thanks !
Click to expand...
Yes hpi pipes are compatible, u might have to wrestle it but it will go. What pipe u looking at?
 
Z.hb71 said:
Yes hpi pipes are compatible, u might have to wrestle it but it will go. What pipe u looking at?
Click to expand...

Thinking the DDM Dominator. This is the correct pipe for my Rovan Terminator correct ?

http://www.davesmotors.com/DDM-Domi...-Port-for-HPI-Baja-5b-5t-DDM008-3-Chrome.html

After much reading on aftermarket pipe opinions i'm thinking the DDM v2 Dominator is exactly what i'm looking for. Looks like a very nicely crafted pipe,hopefully a nice broad midrange torque curve power output. My driving skills will no doubt be rusty (have not driven since 2006) so im not looking for a top end expert level pipe. I'll tell you this, I am REALLY getting jacked up waiting for my ride ! I'l make it a point to create threads on my mods and such. I have a mini mill which opens up HUGE potential for functional hop up parts fabrication. Here's a pic of my mill :

 
Polar_Bus said:
Thinking the DDM Dominator. This is the correct pipe for my Rovan Terminator correct ?

http://www.davesmotors.com/DDM-Domi...-Port-for-HPI-Baja-5b-5t-DDM008-3-Chrome.html

After much reading on aftermarket pipe opinions i'm thinking the DDM v2 Dominator is exactly what i'm looking for. Looks like a very nicely crafted pipe,hopefully a nice broad midrange torque curve power output. My driving skills will no doubt be rusty (have not driven since 2006) so im not looking for a top end expert level pipe. I'll tell you this, I am REALLY getting jacked up waiting for my ride ! I'l make it a point to create threads on my mods and such. I have a mini mill which opens up HUGE potential for functional hop up parts fabrication. Here's a pic of my mill :

Click to expand...
That pipe will work, and I heard it's pretty good ? I haven't owned 1 tho.
That's a nice mill u got there! Wish I could get a mill, u could make sum nice stuff ???
 
+1 on the 25:1. My 5T2.0 kit said run it but I fouled a plug and was pulling my hair out trying to get the buggy started after several successful runs. The plug tip was black but it still sparked. The buggy just wouldn't turn over unless I completely scraped the plug and dried it... but only would blurp for a few seconds then die again. I ordered a few new plugs, installed it and IMMEDIATELY, the truck started. I get a start on 1-3 pulls now.

I'm gonna go 28:1 when my gallon runs out.
 
Gaffle said:
+1 on the 25:1. My 5T2.0 kit said run it but I fouled a plug and was pulling my hair out trying to get the buggy started after several successful runs. The plug tip was black but it still sparked. The buggy just wouldn't turn over unless I completely scraped the plug and dried it... but only would blurp for a few seconds then die again. I ordered a few new plugs, installed it and IMMEDIATELY, the truck started. I get a start on 1-3 pulls now.

I'm gonna go 28:1 when my gallon runs out.
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I've had the same problem with 25:1, too rich, 28:1 should fix that ? I honestly have no idea how the companies recommend that mix
 
Finding a suitable oil / fuel ratio can take some experimentation to dial in. I've tested everything from 20:1 up to 50:1 depending on the application. A lot of people don't realize that fuel/oil ratios directly affect your engine air fuel ratio. Rule of thumb is richer oil/fuel mixture (25:1) requires richer air fuel carb settings because the fuel velocity moves slower through the oil. Adversely, a leaner oil ratio of 32:1 requires a leaner air/fuel mixture. Most motocross engines run WFO at 11,000 rpms for a 30 min moto at 32:1 oil ratio. Your ideal oil ratio depends on how much peak rpm's and engine load your engine will see. A guy running sustained high rpms down gravel roads is probably the most demanding and should probably be at 25:1 , however the typical lower to midrange basher rpm's would be fine with even 32:1. Your looking for a deep mocha brown sparkplug color , and you want to see some bare shiny metal surface on the top of the piston crown outer diameter at all the cylinder ports. This is called "piston wash" . Eric Gorr is the ultimate 2S guru :

https://www.eric-gorr.com/files/pdfs/piston_problem_troubleshooting.pdf

piston wash:

 
Polar_Bus said:
Finding a suitable oil / fuel ratio can take some experimentation to dial in. I've tested everything from 20:1 up to 50:1 depending on the application. A lot of people don't realize that fuel/oil ratios directly affect your engine air fuel ratio. Rule of thumb is richer oil/fuel mixture (25:1) requires richer air fuel carb settings because the fuel velocity moves slower through the oil. Adversely, a leaner oil ratio of 32:1 requires a leaner air/fuel mixture. Most motocross engines run WFO at 11,000 rpms for a 30 min moto at 32:1 oil ratio. Your ideal oil ratio depends on how much peak rpm's and engine load your engine will see. A guy running sustained high rpms down gravel roads is probably the most demanding and should probably be at 25:1 , however the typical lower to midrange basher rpm's would be fine with even 32:1. Your looking for a deep mocha brown sparkplug color , and you want to see some bare shiny metal surface on the top of the piston crown outer diameter at all the cylinder ports. This is called "piston wash" . Eric Gorr is the ultimate 2S guru :

https://www.eric-gorr.com/files/pdfs/piston_problem_troubleshooting.pdf

piston wash:

Click to expand...
Most of us run 28:1, 25:1 is too rich and is a headache to tune and fouls plugs alot, 28:1 is rich enough and doesn't foul plugs alot, but doesn't suck to tune and works the best. I say 28:1
 
Tuning can be a headache, playing around with oil ratios is another headache :confused:

My go to set up is
The Oil ratio 28/1 with whatever premium fuel the gas station has usually around 90/94 octane.

Carb settings, I set them at stock settings. And do a mixture of slow, medium and really fast speed runs.
Keeping a close EAR on the engine sound.
Play with the settings till I find the perfect engine pitch.
And never touch the carb again.

I’ve never checked spark plug colors, wtf is that for ?? :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
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