problem of rear shock,don't turn up.....Help!

[Fulgor72]

Hi,
I still have the problem of rear shock, not returning up well on , I put fg 100 oil, if assemble without the oil shock rise without problems.
What's wrong? :helpsmilie:
KCR Balloon springs are softer black of spring, as he hold the rear of RaceRunner?
Cutting the second section of the piston?
Thanks.
p.s. (I am Italian, the sorry my English!)

 

[monotheist]

100wt shock oil is way to heavy and will over damp the shock causing the slow return. :nono:

Shock oil from the factory is only 5w but I found that was under damped so I am personally running 20w in mine using the softest setting on the 3 position dampening adjuster.

Give that a try and im sure you will be ok :celebrate:

 

[zouz10]

I have had the same problem since day 1.. When my buggy hits the ground it doesn't spring back.
Mono, I checked the manual (or what MCD calls a manual..LOL) and I did not see any section on the 3 position dampening adjuster. Do you happen to have a link please?

 

[monotheist]

The 3 position dampening adjustment isn't covered off in the manual. If your buggy doesn’t spring back from standard factory settings its probably the pre-load on the springs is to soft. Turn them in to tighten the springs a bit and that should make it return but you will then probably find the shocks are to springy and way underdamped until you replace the oil with a heavier weight.

Bearing in mind when you push down on the suspension it should return so that the arms are parallel with the ground. You don’t' want it so it returns back to full travel as the suspension needs to work in both directions i.e. when landing or absorbing the shock from a jump as well as when the wheel falls into a dip in the ground. This maximises traction as it ensures the wheels "track" the terrain as much as possible.

Regarding the dampening adjustment it's this little piece.



Basically how it works is that the shock piston is a 2 piece design each with 3 grooves along the outer edge of both pieces that allow oil to flow past (creating the dampening effect). Depending on which setting you use 1 or more of the grooves wont line up with the upper grooves which adds resistance so instead of 3 oil paths (where all 3 grooves line up....softest setting) you might only have two or one (medium and hardest settings)

It is adjusted by removing the spring from the shock extending the shock shaft all the way out and gently twisting. You should feel 3 distinct clicks as you twist. Probably easier to un-screw the bottom cap and remove the shaft so you can see how it works. One of my 4 were faulty from the factory and could not feel any clicks so I had to remove, adjust and then glue in place so it wouldn’t slip under load.

As I said im currently using 20wt oil and the softest dampening setting which improved its jumping ability considerably but further testing at the track last night I noticed sometimes the rear end would lift after a jump so am going to try a medium to hard dampening setting to see if that calms the rear end down a bit.

 

[zouz10]

Thanks Mono,
I will try it this coming weekend and report back. 20wt sounds like a good number, I used 50wt on my HPI baja but with the on-road tires and it was great..

 

[MONAROMAN]

I found this too, I cured it with a combo of 20w oil rear with shocks on largest hole (10w front also on largest hole) and medium springs (not the stock soft progressive ones) on the rear and she's awesome now. It was lacking until I fitted the med springs but I also run the jetpro which mounts at the rear and may have helped to distribute additional weight to the rear