Project OJ - Losi 5 build

[DougStar]

If your starter is getting jammed you need outerwears on the crankcase and pullstart?? with the start must never oil or grease ? and If there is grease you have to clean it off?? for lubricant you must use graphite power or spray?? coz dose not attract grit/ sand??

Go to run the truck today until I lost a screw for my servo horn (no threadlocker) as well as my starter was hard to pull and sometimes locking up (don’t think I gapped the ignition pad correctly) so I Packed it up because I was towards the end of a tank anyway. Got back to my house and noticed one of my shocks leaking so I decided to take the truck apart to see if it had any other problems I haven’t noticed.

Found these things attached below.

Starter issue
Servo horn screw
Servo screw mounts are snapped.
Two shock boots torn
A little white thing floating around in the tank
(What is this? Photo below)

On the bright side front and rear diff teeth looks great gonna check the middle tomorrow.

I would up doing a full disassembly which I wasn’t really planning and to be fair I’m quite overwhelmed.

I ordered new 30-100-10 f-m-r for the diffs
Tlr shock caps with the bleeder screw
New shock boots
40 and 45 at shock oil
Killer rc power switch because I don’t have one now.

Questions:

Do I need a new fuel tank or is it easy to reattach that white thing?

What else should I look for while reassembling?

Wish me luck!!!

Yessssssss great idea
Oh and all the bearings are shot and the body mount for the exhaust is snapped

Outerwears for your shocks( shockwaers) are also a good idea?? save ther rubber boots ohn thre future ??

 

[Craig G.]

Insane bash machine, Rob! Time to find some spots and fire off the videos! Great detailed parts photos!

 

[DougStar]

Hey craig??

 

[misterleon]

If your starter is getting jammed you need outerwears on the crankcase and pullstart?? with the start must never oil or grease ? and If there is grease you have to clean it off?? for lubricant you must use graphite power or spray?? coz dose not attract grit/ sand??

Outerwears for your shocks( shockwaers) are also a good idea?? save ther rubber boots ohn thre future ??

I have outerwears for shocks, pull start and air intake. I didn’t get one for the crankcase though

Insane bash machine, Rob! Time to find some spots and fire off the videos! Great detailed parts photos!

Thanks craig!

 

[jimbo1]

congratulations on the truck and welcome to the forum.

don't be overwhelmed by a strip down.

i come from 1/8 scale off road racing so its just a larger version of that.
the 5ive platform the best platform to work on imo

I always try and split everything into sections.

front end, rear end and chassis.

I remove the front bulkhead complete with suspension and everything buy unscrewing the 4-6 screws underneath. strip and rebuild everything.

then do the same at the rear.

then if anything needs removing from the chassis I do that last if im doing a full teardown.

this way you will not be stressed about having your whole rig on the table with parts and screws everywhere

then it literally takes 10mins to reassemble the 3 main sections to the chassis.

O and an electric screwdriver is a must
.

 

[misterleon]

All the bearings are in oil (besides the clutch housing bearings which are stuck) the plastic bits are in the dish washer and the motor was opened. Seems that the ignition was rubbing against the flywheel and that’s why the pull start was hard to pull.

Which grease do you guys use to lubricate where the gears mesh?

congratulations on the truck and welcome to the forum.

don't be overwhelmed by a strip down.

i come from 1/8 scale off road racing so its just a larger version of that.
the 5ive platform the best platform to work on imo

I always try and split everything into sections.

front end, rear end and chassis.

I remove the front bulkhead complete with suspension and everything buy unscrewing the 4-6 screws underneath. strip and rebuild everything.

then do the same at the rear.

then if anything needs removing from the chassis I do that last if im doing a full teardown.

this way you will not be stressed about having your whole rig on the table with parts and screws everywhere

then it literally takes 10mins to reassemble the 3 main sections to the chassis.

O and an electric screwdriver is a must
.

Yeah I realized very early that I needed to keep everything in sections I have everything in plastic bags together based on where they belong with the car. 10 minutes to reassemble! I’m gonna put a timer on haha I’m thinking it will take me an hour or two at least

 

[jimbo1]

haha I mean 10mins to bolt to the chassis once all three sections are built back up

 

[Seandonato73]

Graphite spray on the open gears, if anything at all. don't want dirt getting stuck in between them.

 

[misterleon]

I hate waiting on parts!!!

Questions:

Did I overfill my diffs? I think I did a bit of oil popped out of the screw holes as I was drilling them back down.

Should the center diff be freely spinning? I’m thinking the motor compression should be causing resistance but my electric experience says that it should have been shimmed and freely moving.

Do the cvd joints on the drive shaft under the boots need to be greased? I greased them

How would you guys go about making something to hold shocks upright as I get all the air bubbles out? I’d rather not buy anything

 

[Seandonato73]

Yes sounds like it. should be a bit of air space for expansion

Not unless you want all the power to go to whichever end has the least amount of traction. You can hardly spin my center diff.
(I run 500k)

Yes grease them

I have a 4x4 with some holes drilled in with a 1 1/4" bit

 

[misterleon]

Not unless you want all the power to go to whichever end has the least amount of traction. You can hardly spin my center diff.
(I run 500k)

Are you speaking about the center diff spinning the pinion or each side of the center diff spinning independently?

 

[Seandonato73]

sorry should have been a bit more clear on that. The bearings should spin easy in the mount not hooked up to anything.
But front to back drive shafts should have resistance.
Ie. If you hold the front wheels and spin the rear wheels you should feel resistance.

 

[misterleon]

sorry should have been a bit more clear on that. The bearings should spin easy in the mount not hooked up to anything.
But front to back drive shafts should have resistance.
Ie. If you hold the front wheels and spin the rear wheels you should feel resistance.

I’ll have to check that. The only thing I was looking at and what made me ask the question was everything seems stiff when I spin the clutch pinion

 

[crucialRC]

I’ll have to check that. The only thing I was looking at and what made me ask the question was everything seems stiff when I spin the clutch pinion

Brakes disengaged?

 

[DougStar]

I hate waiting on parts!!!

Questions:

Did I overfill my diffs? I think I did a bit of oil popped out of the screw holes as I was drilling them back down.

Should the center diff be freely spinning? I’m thinking the motor compression should be causing resistance but my electric experience says that it should have been shimmed and freely moving.

Do the cvd joints on the drive shaft under the boots need to be greased? I greased them

How would you guys go about making something to hold shocks upright as I get all the air bubbles out? I’d rather not buy anything

the center diff would spin freely if it was not connected to the front and rear diff there will be some resistance, should be able to turn it with your hand no problem. the motor dose not add resistance only if and when the clutch is engaged
shock stand i use a stencil wit round holes

 

[misterleon]

Brakes disengaged?

Yeah i checked that the pads are loose

 

[misterleon]

the center diff would spin freely if it was not connected to the front and rear diff there will be some resistance, should be able to turn it with your hand no problem. the motor dose not add resistance only if and when the clutch is engaged
shock stand i use a stencil wit round holes

Awesome thank you

 

[misterleon]

Washed all the parts. Got everything back together (almost)
-installed killer rc power switch,
-tlr bleeder shock caps, orange springs all around and 40wt shock oil.
-Went f-30k, c-100k, r-10k in diffs.
-Added threadlocker to all metal to metal screws.
-Fixed the gap from the ignition to the fly wheel.
-New fuel lines and reinstalled the fuel filter
-cleaned and sat the bearings in oil for 24 hours

Now just waiting on shock ends, new cvd boots, fuel fitting for carb, and new air filters.

 

[cbaker65]

Washed all the parts. Got everything back together (almost)
-installed killer rc power switch,
-tlr bleeder shock caps, orange springs all around and 40wt shock oil.
-Went f-30k, c-100k, r-10k in diffs.
-Added threadlocker to all metal to metal screws.
-Fixed the gap from the ignition to the fly wheel.
-New fuel lines and reinstalled the fuel filter
-cleaned and sat the bearings in oil for 24 hours

Now just waiting on shock ends, new cvd boots, fuel fitting for carb, and new air filters.

Dishwasher?....

 

[DougStar]

TLR bleeder caps orange springs