RCR brake updates

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L

lorraine

Well-Known Member
Messages
283
Location
new york
If you run a RCR brake kit along with a TR top plate and one piece TR brake mount then this mod is for you. With the brake cam at true zero and linkage arm at 12 o'clock punch a center mark close to TR brake mount at .062 back from linkage arm and drill a .125 hole through trans top plate. Now drive in a .125 roll pin that will reach to just a little past the brake cam arm link so now the arm will return to true cam zero. I then took a o-ring and put it on brake arm link and ran it back to shock tower upright strut and now the brake system returns to zero cam every time when on the gas. You guy's know that the RCR kit grabs with very little force and when bouncing around while driving the brake arm is flying all over the place and bumping the shoe pack , This even stops the cam from going back past center cam when on the gas. The roll pin and o-ring keep the cam spindle at the perfect spot all the time until it needs to be pulled for brake...........
 
lorraine said:
If you run a RCR brake kit along with a TR top plate and one piece TR brake mount then this mod is for you. With the brake cam at true zero and linkage arm at 12 o'clock punch a center mark close to TR brake mount at .062 back from linkage arm and drill a .125 hole through trans top plate. Now drive in a .125 roll pin that will reach to just a little past the brake cam arm link so now the arm will return to true cam zero. I then took a o-ring and put it on brake arm link and ran it back to shock tower upright strut and now the brake system returns to zero cam every time when on the gas. You guy's know that the RCR kit grabs with very little force and when bouncing around while driving the brake arm is flying all over the place and bumping the shoe pack , This even stops the cam from going back past center cam when on the gas. The roll pin and o-ring keep the cam spindle at the perfect spot all the time until it needs to be pulled for brake...........
Click to expand...
Or alternatively you can fit the tr brake springs
http://www.davesmotors.com/TR-Replacement-Brake-Pad-Springs-TR0020.html
TR Replacement Brake Pad Springs
If you have the tr one piece brake mount this should have came with 2 springs but you will need 4 for the rcr brakes
 
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When the brake pad pack is shimmed the way it should be there is no room for any springs on pins. If you do not shim and try to use springs the cam has to travel way too far to close down the pack and alot of the times rolls over the cam face edge corner and sticks. It takes most times with a RCR kit a total of 4 HPI brake shims to be added to keep the arm travel down.............
 
lorraine said:
When the brake pad pack is shimmed the way it should be there is no room for any springs on pins. If you do not shim and try to use springs the cam has to travel way too far to close down the pack and alot of the times rolls over the cam face edge corner and sticks. It takes most times with a RCR kit a total of 4 HPI brake shims to be added to keep the arm travel down.............
Click to expand...
Sorry but I disagree, my brake cam has never stuck with rcr on any of the 3 rigs I have them fitted.
 
lorraine said:
If you run a RCR brake kit along with a TR top plate and one piece TR brake mount then this mod is for you. With the brake cam at true zero and linkage arm at 12 o'clock punch a center mark close to TR brake mount at .062 back from linkage arm and drill a .125 hole through trans top plate. Now drive in a .125 roll pin that will reach to just a little past the brake cam arm link so now the arm will return to true cam zero. I then took a o-ring and put it on brake arm link and ran it back to shock tower upright strut and now the brake system returns to zero cam every time when on the gas. You guy's know that the RCR kit grabs with very little force and when bouncing around while driving the brake arm is flying all over the place and bumping the shoe pack , This even stops the cam from going back past center cam when on the gas. The roll pin and o-ring keep the cam spindle at the perfect spot all the time until it needs to be pulled for brake...........
Click to expand...


You should snap a pic of this mod
 
Coop, you got a 34 reeder with factory brakes ? This should be a good one soon!!!
the guy was so upset he almost threwup....We have it here at shop in a Amazon prime pantry box and it looks like airplane wreckage with some wheels thrown in for a joke. It hit so hard that the fan shroud and clutch housing are still on motor plate and it longblocked itself without tools......lol......lol..........
One of the main reasons we shim our brake packs to have only 1/4 inch throw at tip of link arm is to take full advantage of ABS . With the pack tite you can dial in short fast duty cycles and make the ABS work like it should without a ton of servo travel. All in all the RCR kits work great as is but we make the system work for our track and radio systems
 
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