Rear Alloy A Arms - And Why??

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Bigger the Better

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you should get alloy upper rear a arms to avoid spur gear destruction
The rear A arms where originally recommended to be replace due to the flex that causes them to snap at the threads or A structure in jumping and hard bashing or roll over.
You will still have the same amount of flex in the rear end with alloy A arms. To see what I mean take off you rear tire on the gear side hold the rear end and twist.
You can lessen or leave the flex and avoid damage by doing one of these two things:
1 - Replace the rear end and lower arms with alloy, which stiffens the rear and lessens the flex and also takes most of the cash out of your pocket.
or
2 - Which is the lesser cost, and what I will do soon. Go ahead and let the rear flex, but install the alloy upright lengthening set and alloy rear raised uprights, this will lift the A arm rod out of the way not letting the flex cause rod/gear damage. FG part#'s - 6478,7478 for FGMT.

1rearriser1.jpg

Now also to keep in mind that there is flex in both buggy's and monster vehicles but there is twice the flex in the monsters due to the size and tire weight and roll over potential. I found this out really fast in switching the monster tires to a buggy that I never had any flex problems before, and really quickly found I did with the larger tires on it. It also will depend on the motor mesh, this will depend on how close your large spur gear gets to the A arm shaft. If its far enough away it will take some real time flex to hit it, or it may never hit it at all.
 
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Remember to figure in the above upgrade on a new model. The alloy rear upper A arms will not take out the twist just allow the A arm not to snap when flexing. The only way to eliminate flex is lower alloy arms or risers.
 

slawhammer

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Yeah after I got the alloy rear carrier or hubs..and ran the firehammer Did I realize I need different set up to extend the smaller upper A-arms...So now have to buy different rear
hubs......Live & learn the hard way..costly experience.....AKASlawhammer
 

dc2 man

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hey btb

i don't mean to critisize any thing here all good info but the reason i had to replace my lower a-arms was because the turnbuckles were pulling through the plastic balljoints with the weight and im sure this is always the case with plastic parts(all) after time.

when replaced to alloy they simply cant pull through the threads because obviously alloy balljoint connected to alloy a-arm,so flex is no longer a problem.

i think the alloy a-arms are essential upgrade on monsters...
 
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Bigger the Better

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Nope, this is for the upper alloy A arms. The lowers are a whole different monster.

The rear alloy rod takes out the large spur gear due to the flex.
Years ago they recommended to replace the upper a arms due to them popping out or breaking. People eventually started the rummer that it was being replaced due to the flex and replacing them will eliminate it.
I wanted to make a thread for the new owners to understand it was so they would not break and that the flex will still be there unless they did other modifications wiht the lower arms or uprights and extenders.
 

SELWA

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A very inexpensive fix to prevent the turnbuckles from poping out of the plastic arms is to replace the 32mm on with a 39mm. A pair is less than $10

FG number is 6100/04 or 6100/4
 

Super654

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The rear A arms where originally recommended to be replace due to the flex that causes them to snap at the threads or A structure in jumping and hard bashing or roll over.
You will still have the same amount of flex in the rear end with alloy A arms. To see what I mean take off you rear tire on the gear side hold the rear end and twist.
You can lessen or leave the flex and avoid damage by doing one of these two things:
1 - Replace the rear end and lower arms with alloy, which stiffens the rear and lessens the flex and also takes most of the cash out of your pocket.
or
2 - Which is the lesser cost, and what I will do soon. Go ahead and let the rear flex, but install the alloy upright lengthening set and alloy rear raised uprights, this will lift the A arm rod out of the way not letting the flex cause rod/gear damage. FG part#'s - 6478,7478 for FGMT

1rearriser1.jpg

Now also to keep in mind that there is flex in both buggy's and monster vehicles but there is twice the flex in the monsters due to the size and tire weight and roll over potential. I found this out really fast in switching the monster tires to a buggy that I never had any flex problems before, and really quickly found I did with the larger tires on it. It also will depend on the motor mesh, this will depend on how close your large spur gear gets to the A arm shaft. If its far enough away it will take some real time flex to hit it, or it may never hit it at all.
Hey BTB...

Just fitted the alloy rear upright lenghtening arms and my suspention has hardley any travel, have i done something wrong?

Can you help mate?
 

Super654

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BTB, just been sitting here thinking about it (like you do) it must be my drive shafts hiting as ive also just installed a new alloy rear end, so will have to widen everything, hope this does the trick...
 

SELWA

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Remove the shocks and see where it's binding. You may also wanna remove any black plastic clips on the upper arms. When the suspension moves up the upper arm slides a bit.
 
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Get back with a photo of your set up. I just put some rear uprights I won off ebay on the rear and will be looking for a set of risers myself.:)
 
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