Red Cat MT V3 problem after problem

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
W

wastingas

Member
Messages
8
I would like to inform people who are considering buying the red cat rampage mt v3 of the problems I am having so they don't run into the same thing. I will first start off by saying this is my first rc truck and I have/had no idea what I was getting into besides wanting to have a good time with it. Myself and a buddy both purchased this truck just a little over a month ago from seperate retailers. I am the researcher so I did learn the servos are not really good and I would have to replace them intime. I also read on multiple posts the stock carb is not that good and just goes bad. So after I ordered mine I also ordered the cpi pipe and the walbro carb to replace mine to be able to beat my friend! Oh I also ordered the killer bee because I was told the stock fail is not that good. Ok I ran three tanks through the engine at idle my buddy only one but he didnt care. My rampage also came with the redcat pipe (ive read is junk also) I gave that to my friend which he installed on his.
First time out to the park after about 15 minutes we raced 150 feet and to my surprise my buddy beat me several times with the red cat pipe and stock carb (wtf) I thought o well. After that his throttle servo would barely accelerate at all not even 30 minutes on the truck. I decided to tune mine a little and shortly after my throttle servo stuck wide open and the truck took off. Thank god for the killer bee the truck shut down and when I got there (don't know how) the brakes where smoking and toasted completely wore out. This was our first outting:mad:. I called red cat and they said its highly unlikely both trucks would have the same problem and said we should send them back to them to inspect them. Well I wanted it fixed so we went to the local hobby shop and bought new throttle servos (throttle probelm fixed). My buddy test drove his and one of his steering seros has gone bad truck wont turn. More repairs he still has only used it one time. I also had to replace my brakes and while doing so noticed my left front c/v joint had blown up and had to order that. I also noticed both my front shocks had some oil on the bottom of them (don't know if this is normal left it alone) I finally got the parts and got the truck back together off to the field I went. 15 minutes if im lucky the truck shut off while running and will not start at all now Ive tried everything to get it running (I hope the motor hasnt blown up) Oh i also just noticed the right front c/v joint has blown up as well and needs to be replaced. Anyway Im extremely frustrated and disapointed, I don't know if any other 4x4 would be better than this one but if you choose to buy the Red Cat rampage mt v3 believe the posts about problems I kinda did and now Im paying for it. I have worked on this truck more than I have driven it.:mad: Both times the truck was run in socker fields so I don't think Im abusing it. Be ware
 
Wow 3 tanks on idle??????????? thats way too much I am sure you have quite a bit of bulid up going on in the engine with 3 tanks at idle. When you bought the new carb did you turn your screws all the way and and start at the base setting?????? Now really do agree that the cvs are garbage I only use dogbone and drive cups way better. I would think to keep burnning up servos like that and that quickly your end point adjustmen on the radio are set way to far I have went a year on stock servos with no problems but they are hit and miss. Boy soory you are having these problems there are some lemons on everything and maybe you and your friend gotten one I have had the MT for almost 3 years now and its the truck I have to buy the least parts for.
Now you say it wont crank have you tried taking youe needles back to the base setting????
 
I called red cat and they recommended the three tanks at idle I also agree that sounded excessive but I don't know anything about this? I replaced the stock spark plug with the NGk after break in. I had a friend of mine adjust the carb that works on small motors and it ran great when it was running I saw the signs of smoke I hear you want to see while running. I just put the stock carb back on and it still won't start I checked the spark with a tester and there's plenty of spark so ? I was told to take the exhaust off and look into the exhaust port and see if The piston looks damaged . And so far my steering servos are ok my buddies took a dump so am I next? I'll see what tomorrow brings thx for the reply
 
wastingas said:
I called red cat and they recommended the three tanks at idle I also agree that sounded excessive but I don't know anything about this? I replaced the stock spark plug with the NGk after break in. I had a friend of mine adjust the carb that works on small motors and it ran great when it was running I saw the signs of smoke I hear you want to see while running. I just put the stock carb back on and it still won't start I checked the spark with a tester and there's plenty of spark so ? I was told to take the exhaust off and look into the exhaust port and see if The piston looks damaged . And so far my steering servos are ok my buddies took a dump so am I next? I'll see what tomorrow brings thx for the reply
Click to expand...

I don't know much about these RC engines, but I have built many racing engines (cars, and lawn mowers) and for the most part, an engine is an engine. SO.... What exactly is it doing? Does it sputter at all? If you have a damaged piston, you should notice less compression. Does it seem easier to pull than before?

You say your getting spark, so after pulling it for a bit, pull the plug to see if it's wet. If it's not wet, than we'll visit either a carb/fuel line issue or in 2 strokes it could be a vaccum issue.
 
when you replaced the carb did you ensure the small hole in the carb,gasket,manifold lined up?..called the pulse port and an engine wont run if it's blocked by the gasket installed incorrectly
and 3 tanks at idle will hurt a gasser more than help performance wise...they are not nitros and don't need running in per se...one 10min heat cycle running a tad rich, wot not more than a few seconds at a time...after 10mins let it cool then tune it a thrash the nuts off it...it will like you for it
 
Last edited:
redcat

Im not sure, but have you done the tank vent mod? this will cause those weird (run for a few minutes/ then not start issues), don't hold me to it but i bet thats whats going on with that, also set your endpoints on the steering and throttle so that they just turn or open all the way without the servo attempting to continue pushing past that, i have the xb and i swapped out the throttle servo before i even fired it up, have been using the stock steering servo with no issues, i have done about two gallons since this past christmas with it..don't give up on it just yet, and definetly pay attention to any problem areas that have already been addressed by others, this will save you a lot of time and headache!! Up to this point any trouble i have had has been caused by me not loc tighting things, and not going over things after im done running lol...
 
I haven't messed with truck in last couple days before it quit it was running awesome then it sounded like it missed a couple times sounded like pop pop pop about three times and quit. I am getting plenty of spark I've pulled the plug after trying to start it and its wet. I do not know what the tank vent mod is but it's run great till now? I'll try it if u tell me how to do it. I'm gonna put the new carb back on today and recheck the gaskets not done with it yet!
 
wastingas said:
I haven't messed with truck in last couple days before it quit it was running awesome then it sounded like it missed a couple times sounded like pop pop pop about three times and quit. I am getting plenty of spark I've pulled the plug after trying to start it and its wet. I do not know what the tank vent mod is but it's run great till now? I'll try it if u tell me how to do it. I'm gonna put the new carb back on today and recheck the gaskets not done with it yet!
Click to expand...

Ok, unscrew the gas cap and let it sit and see if it will run, i don't recommend driving around with the gas cap off though..lol...if this solves the problem you can do 1 or 2 things, drill a small hole in the top of the gas cap, get a small brass fitting and screw that into the cap then run some tube up to the top of the rollcage and then back down to the chassis, that way when you roll over it wont spill everywhere, or the othe option (which is also the cleanest)..is to get a snappy rc vent kit that goes into the grommet that holds your supply and return lines from the carb to the tank...good luck!
 
First and foremost all servos and radio should be replaced, but this applies to every RTR 5th scale out there. Next can't really see how brake and throttle can be on at same time unless linkage is done wrong or a rock or something wedged into the brake discs. As far as running 3 tanks idling bad idea but whats done is done. Next vent the tank you can simply do the tank cap or use the snappy RC vent kit. You should also be coating dog bones and CV joints in grease and then installing HPI boot covers over them to keep dirt out. I was scheptical when I bought MY V3 but before ever running I did the above mods along with Walbro 990 carb. This thing has about 10 tanks throught it and has been awsome, the redcat V3 is one of the easiest to work on, and goes over petty much anything in its way. There isn't much to it so remain calm and work out the bugs and you will get it to where you want it to be.
 
I appreciate all the help first off thx. I just put the new carb back on and prior to that i did notice the small hole on the back of the carb on the bottom. I made sure that wasnt covered up and put the carb back on, unscrewed the gas cap and nothing still wont run? Im still getting spark (atleast my spark tester lights up every time I pull the handle) and I took the spark plug out and its wet. Im beginning to lean towards this thing is blown up somehow. I still feel compresion when I pull it over, now how much compression I don't know. Anyway Im beginning to research motors to alieviate my frustration I still like the truck! What would be the recommended motor between obr and gizmo I don't want the baddest one out there but I want the better 30.5 thx.
 
wastingas said:
I appreciate all the help first off thx. I just put the new carb back on and prior to that i did notice the small hole on the back of the carb on the bottom. I made sure that wasnt covered up and put the carb back on, unscrewed the gas cap and nothing still wont run? Im still getting spark (atleast my spark tester lights up every time I pull the handle) and I took the spark plug out and its wet. Im beginning to lean towards this thing is blown up somehow. I still feel compresion when I pull it over, now how much compression I don't know. Anyway Im beginning to research motors to alieviate my frustration I still like the truck! What would be the recommended motor between obr and gizmo I don't want the baddest one out there but I want the better 30.5 thx.
Click to expand...

Wait... you haven't checked the spark at the plug? This could be something as simple as a bad spark plug! :rolleyes:

Ok, so we have spark (at least through the wire) so after checking the spark at the plug we need to check the fuel/air mixture. An engine needs air equally as much as fuel. Too much fuel with little air and you'll get the same result as no fuel. Does your carb have a choke? What's the air temp? Are you trying to start this outside in the winter cold?

So to verify, CURRENTLY there is no sputtering/popping when you try to start it right now? It's hard to imagine the plug is wet but no sputtering (if there is spark at the plug).
 
Thx crazyfast I have changed the spark plug I put the stock one back in I have not really looked to see if there is spark at the electrode on either plug my fault I figured both plugs could not be bad. The carb does have a choke and im in miami so outside temps now are 75-80 degrees. I tried to start the motor god knows how many pulls now and nothing not a pop sputter backfire nothing Thts why I believe its dead? Could the timing somehow have jumped? I still haven't taken the exhaust off to see if the piston is scored or damaged. I also was told the engine needs 90 psi of compression to run. Is this correct ?
 
Pull the spark plug-- turn DR upside down and pull. If you get fuel (lots) outta the head its flooded and wont start. If you get fuel outta it, then pull 5 or 6 times till it clears while upside down--Reinstall plug-- pull 2 times see if it pops. If it don't give primer 2 pumps and retry. If still nothing Hold trigger on on radio wide open an give a few more pulls to see if it pops. If it will pop keep holding trigger wide open till it starts to clear out. MAKE SURE CAR IS OFF THE GROUND WHEN HOLDING WIDE OPEN... Hope this helps. Chill, Breath and have a beer till she comes around.. Its all part of the Hobby..:)
 
wastingas said:
Thx crazyfast I have changed the spark plug I put the stock one back in I have not really looked to see if there is spark at the electrode on either plug my fault I figured both plugs could not be bad. The carb does have a choke and im in miami so outside temps now are 75-80 degrees. I tried to start the motor god knows how many pulls now and nothing not a pop sputter backfire nothing Thts why I believe its dead? Could the timing somehow have jumped? I still haven't taken the exhaust off to see if the piston is scored or damaged. I also was told the engine needs 90 psi of compression to run. Is this correct ?
Click to expand...

EDIT: I completely forgot to ask... You said it was running and then shut off and has not started since. How did it shut off? Did it spit and sputter as if being starved of gas or air? OR did it just DIE and roll to a stop? If it just died, it has to be electrical. Could be the killer bee kicking in? If it spit and sputtered than we'll continue with diagnosing the fuel/air issues.

For sh*ts and giggles, pull the exhaust off to ensure no mud bees or mice have stuffed anything up there. Check the spark plug gap. Then with the air filter off, pinch the fuel line (or disconnect it) and simply drop a few drops of gas directly into the cylinder and try to start it. Reasoning is just want to ensure it's not flooding out.

What was the color of the bottom of the spark plug after you ran the 3 tanks of gas? The lighter the color the leaner it is (white/grey), the darker the color the richer it is (black). You want a nice brown color.
 
Last edited:
ok I had a friend check it out and apparently the coil is working intermitently or my spark checker is junk and flashes all the time. His test reveals there is no spark, so i just ordered a new coil from ddm should be here in 3 days. The truck shut off while running the motor popped 3 short times and shut down that was it. The carb is fine im positive of that I sprayed eather in the carb and nothing the engine doesn't even try to start. Ill see when the coil comes in hopefully that will fix it. thx again
 
No spark

wastingas said:
ok I had a friend check it out and apparently the coil is working intermitently or my spark checker is junk and flashes all the time. His test reveals there is no spark, so i just ordered a new coil from ddm should be here in 3 days. The truck shut off while running the motor popped 3 short times and shut down that was it. The carb is fine im positive of that I sprayed eather in the carb and nothing the engine doesn't even try to start. Ill see when the coil comes in hopefully that will fix it. thx again
Click to expand...

Hey you might get lucky like i did... Pull the side cove where the pullstart is and make sure no foreign objects have gotten in there, i had a wad of grass get between the flywheel and the coil causing no spark.....
 
Ok got the motor running again and could not believe it after trying everything we checked the stator gap or spacing? And found it had moved and closed the gap enough to kill the spark. We reset it with a piece of paper tightened it up and the truck runs great again :cup-1: thx
 
spark

wastingas said:
Ok got the motor running again and could not believe it after trying everything we checked the stator gap or spacing? And found it had moved and closed the gap enough to kill the spark. We reset it with a piece of paper tightened it up and the truck runs great again :cup-1: thx
Click to expand...


good deal!!
 
wastingas said:
Ok got the motor running again and could not believe it after trying everything we checked the stator gap or spacing? And found it had moved and closed the gap enough to kill the spark. We reset it with a piece of paper tightened it up and the truck runs great again :cup-1: thx
Click to expand...

Two strokes are pretty basic it almost always comes down to something simple
 
Back
Top
✖
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website. For the best site experience please disable your AdBlocker.

I've Disabled AdBlock    No Thanks