ROVAN LT 320 SHORT COURSE 1/5 32cc RTR 4WD

[tim3]

ROVAN LT 320 SHORT COURSE 1/5 32cc RTR 4WD​

Older Thread-
ROVAN LT 305 SHORT COURSE 1/5 32cc RTR 4WD https://www.largescaleforums.com/threads/rovan-lt305.19560/

All info from Rovan RC.com http://www.rovanrc.com/1/5-truck/lt320-32cc-ready-to-run-4wd-short-course-truck-rtr/
• 32CC powerful 4 bolt Rovan sport engine with Easy Pull Start System, Walbro 997 carburetor and NGK spark plug
• 1/4 scale size 50KG RS-2050D all metal gear steering servo, and 40KG servo for the throttle and brake function
• Heavy duty full time 4wd shaft drive system with CVD drive shafts and steel gears throughout the drive train (no plastic gears)
• 3 HD metal gear sealed oil filled sealed viscous differentials (front/center/rear)
• High Performance 8000 RPM Clutch
• Wheel set (170x80mm) with HD 10 spoke bead lock rims with inner metal 24mm hex
• Fly-Sky GT-3B 3 Channel 2.4GHz transmitter computer radio with automatic frequency hopping digital system, 10 model memory, servo reversing, end point adjustment (EPA) , dual rate, exponential, auto brake system (ABS), model name etc.. No need to worry about having the same signal as someone else. Built in failsafe just in case you go out of range.
• 6V 3000 mAh NIMH Rechargeable battery
• Front and rear sway bars for great handling
• HD front and rear HD Plastic shock towers
• Foam air filter element set
• Aluminum clutch bell support
• Strong polycarbonate material painted short course body panels (4 pieces) are held on with a built in internal plastic roll cage.
• HD short course front bumper and rear bumper with rubber mud flaps
• CNC aluminum large-bore high volume oil filled shocks with 7mm shafts & threaded adjusters
• Full ball bearings thought the entire drive train
• Large 800cc gas/oil tank
• Dual HD adjustable front and rear disc brakes
• CNC 5mm thick aluminum frame
• Heavy Duty Steel Tuned pipe installed!

(NEEDED) 2 stroke gas/oil mix (25/1 ratio)

 

[tim3]

This is my first 1/5. Lots to learn

I have some things coming/on there way.

1.Front and rear bearing shims to try and take out some play in the pion/spear gears.
2.Diff oils F/10000-M/7000-R/3000.
3. Off brand Pre filters Air/Pull Start.
4. Bought some material off amazon to try and make my own shock covers. LOL-will see how that go's.
5. Red Line Oil 40603

 

[Whoduh]

The FIRST upgrade you should get is a kill switch.
Second is probably a Lipo battery. You might not even make it through break-in with the nimh battery. Servo response is night and day difference with the lipo(if the servos can handle it).

Make sure you tear the truck down....check diffs...shocks...loctite the screws that need it...

That Flysky radio is a decent radio. Receivers are small and really inexpensive...good range too.
BUT.....do not leave that radio out in the sun on a really hot day...The thick plastic screen protector thingy WILL warp and come off. Radio will still function just fine without it though.

The truck is really easy to work on....lots of space.

If you don't have a good set of tools....get some. Working with the tools that come with the truck(if any came with it at all) is gonna get really annoying really quick.

You don't really NEED any upgrades(other than the kill switch and Lipo battery)...upgrade as you break stuff. Everything should be compatible with the 5ive t oem and aftermarket parts.

Enjoy.

 

[tim3]

Thank you Whoduh
Awesome advice.

I have the Super Bee Kill Switch Car Kit with speaker to install.

I have already installed my airtronics mt4 and need to assign Bee Kill to a switch. The Flysky radio will go in one of my other 1/10 off roaders .

I will change the battery, not sure if I will do life/lipo with a vlt.regulator.

I had some 15mm shims made up but they where to thick and caused the diff bearings to be to tight in the diff case.
So I ordered some Fast Eddy 15mm shims, they are the ticket to getting the diff shimmed up just right!

The 4 screws holding the crown gear to the diff on my rear diff are so tight I thought the awesome Dynamite hex driver was going to brake, I am going to have to work on getting those screws out. I was able to get the front diff apart but man it was tuff.
I think they used a gorilla to put them together lol.

The diff oils will be here next week and I hope to finish putting the driveline back together. Its all over the place right now lol.

 

[tim3]

The diffs where removed to check and relube.

As the diffs where taken apart, the screws where put in so tight they gullied the aluminum threads in Two diff case housings as the diffs where taken apart. Will need two diff case housings.
I took as much care in disassembly as possible thinking I would be reusing all parts. The diff screws are not usable any more. I was able to get them out but they where so tight.


The rear diff housing screws could not be taken apart at all, as the screw heads give up ad now cannot be removed and have asked Roven for replacement parts.

 

[tim3]

Rear diff

 

[Whoduh]

Is that what was in your diffs?
They look empty...or covered in grease, not fluid..
If you get screws stuck in metal again, try a butane torch and Speedouts to remove the screw.
One other thing you should probably get is extra screws...just in case you strip one and still manage to get it out, you have a replacement on hand to keep you running. Waiting for a parts SUCKS.

 

[tim3]

Ya, that's what come from factory in the diffs whoduh.
I took the diffs apart before I even thought about using the truck. I had already planed on changing the diff fluid before running and braking in the engine and that was the result of opening the diffs.
All good, glad I did it.
Overall this is a nice truck and cant wait to get it going.
I just wont to check things over good before running it.
1000$ is lot, I just wont to double check things and make sure there right.

 

[tim3]

UPDATE:
So I have been emailing Rovan about the diff case's problem. Someone corresponding with me at Rovan said those are sealed diffs, like I am not suppose to open them up?@* and seemed angry that I had.
He said he dose not have the separate diff ends that he would send new diffs if I sent the diffs from the kit to him. I understand sending the back, I fill I shouldn't have to pay for any shipping because of a factory default. Well this is a enough wining and I will just have to use what I have some how.
I still think the truck is good for the money. I know...I was told to go with name brand.
I still cant wait too get it running..

 

[Whoduh]

All the diffs can be opened..don't know why they told you that... They may have loctited the heck out of it...might be why it got stuck.

 

[tim3]

I had time this weekend to work on LT diffs.
The one diff housing that was ordered lubed and installed as a middle dif.
The one dif housing that was salvable was installed as a rear dif.

 

[tim3]

I used a easy out to try and remove the screws from the other housings, but was unable to remove the screws.
So I ended up ordering another billet housing.
Rovan reimbursed 35$, that helped and would rather have the billet housing.

 

[crankestein]

You need a small torch.

Mine had the same issue. Its metal so go on it applying heat, of course have some gloves to handle them. Mine are metal just like yours, and res locktite w like 20,000 pounds of torque. Had to go easy on them. They did give up eventually and all were opened.

Its a good truck for the money. If I were you replace all to losi diff gears. Make sure the diff pins are nice smooth when spinning the washers (little metal blocks). On mine they would kink causing premature failure on all three. Dremmeled, polished them, losi gears and up to this day no issues.

Do test the kill switch, all possible scenarios, disconnected battery, loss of signal, able to remote shut off, and verify the fail safe is set. Mine was set to accelerate from factory instead of stop.

 

[Whoduh]

+1 on the torch.

You can get them for under $20.
I even grabed one online for $7 and free shipping.

 

[crankestein]

Just got to watch out cause there are knock-offs from knock-offs and quality control on those metal cases are hit or miss. Tolerances are not always the same and parts do not fit as they should be.

Just talking from my experience, where the little square guides would fit one diff case and not the other when been slide n its slot within the diff case.

Have seen a bunch where the material looks like cheap alloy. If I do buy one I would view the feedback or buy from Rovan itself. Even them don't know whats coming down the line as they are only a distributor.

 

[tim3]

Thank you gentlemen for the good info. It is much appreciated.

I broke a rear L a arm lest week, I drove the truck into a low man hole I did not see that caused the truck to go into a tumble and landed on left rear tire causing rear arm breakage.

I just thought that buying a Losi replacement would work, it wont. the Rovan arm is longer.
So I will get Rovan set ordered next week pay cheek.
Lots to learn.

 

[Whoduh]

Were you looking at the arms for the 5ive mini? They are shorter than the 5ive T....different part numbers.

 

[Brent]

video!!