Shock oil

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Scruffy

Well-Known Member
Messages
590
OK guys I have new shock shafts on the way so next is shock oil. There is so much info on this subject that im dumbfounded. Some say silicone, some say don't use silicone, some say u can use anything from cooking oil to motor oil. So what is the right answer? The new shafts have the 2 hole pistons.What are you guys using or what would you suggest?
 
My on a budget replies continues...

Front shock oil, organic canola oil (refined high heat), drilled two or three (1mm) extra holes if I recall, making it a total of 4 or 5. The extra holes about the size of the diameter of a bicycle spoke wheel. I tested first with Johnson baby oil, but was too thin. I do have Factory Team 10 and 15, I just felt like it on the cooking oil.
On the rear shocks, Factory Team 35 weight, and the same thing, drilled two or three more holes of 1mm. Fill them up from the bottom, and squeezing the shaft and threading at the same time, patience and lots of rags for the oil over-spill. I think I also sanded/rounded off the edges of the pistons a bit to have them slide smoothly a complete cycle.

Mine is about time for a shock tear down cleaning, if I do, will take some pictures.
 
Not really on a budget but just hate waiting to order lol. Thought about drilling 2 extra holes and using 40 Wt motor oil. Shouldn't hurt the seals as it doesn't hurt valve stem seals in a car
 
Different rubber is affected differently.
Not sure of material the seals are made from.

I run 40wt silicone in F & R, and have adjusted the piston holes to allow the shocks to react correctly to my liking.
The thicker fluid keeps my shocks from leaking or even seaping.
 
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Was surprised to see my stock KM shocks had 16 hole pistons. My replacements are 2 hole. Im gonna try straight 30 wt oil I found a Walmart with the 2 hole pistons and see what happens :)
 
Not on a budget, understood, but to me knowing that a quart of synthetic oil costs about the same as 2 fluid ounces of silicone oil, its outrageous.
 
New shafts installed...Check
Shocks filled...Check
Shocks bled...Check
Now let's go see what we can break today
 
+1, maintenance is part of the hobby, keep it running ready to roll in all four corners.

If there is a set of shocks I hate to work on are the baja style, w the bottom shaft screw cover. It takes some patience to bleed them out.

I was contemplating motor gear oil for the rear shocks. People say the seals will blow up, tear them up chemicals, bla bla, to me its over-rated.

On another subject, I say the same thing when going to the field, awesome day, jump after jump on the soccer field levy. A few bad landings, but the KM X2 took it all no problems. The baja is OOC missing the exhaust spacer.

Good news, did not break a part, tumble after tumble. Have been working all evening on some frankestein mud guards. The plan is to spray with flex seal the roll cage w the mud guards. Installed aluminum window nets, a dollar at Family General.
A close up of the front Losi shafts on stock KM shocks, direct fit.
 

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Wasn't happy with the new shock shafts. First off they weren't the ones I ordered but I decided to try them anyways. First time I have had an issue with Dan. Messaged him but haven't heard back yet.
Screenshot_2017-02-19-09-09-47.png I ordered these
Screenshot_2017-02-19-09-10-07.png but received these. Only with the alloy ball ends switched around. I don't know if this was purposefully done. If so that's kinda dirty IMO
 
I was thinking the same thing. Easier just to get new shocks. I will wait and see what Dan says.
 
Its a weekend, he may lag on responding. Usually he is very reasonable.

I was going to buy that same set until I saw the Ebay listing.

Post pics of the upgrades if possible.
 
If I recall you installed a few goodies, and ran the baja for a few minutes.

Nothing in particular...

My X2 is back on the bench, the pull start is acting up, doing some cleaning.
 
Ran good Saturday and for about half a tank Sunday. Then I started having idle issues. When I stop the engine idles normally for about 5 seconds then starts to gradually slow til it dies. Do air leaks cause low idle? Im also seeing oil inside the clutch housing which I know isn't good Any ideas?
 
Air leaks cause high idle, as if the carb settings are lean, or the engine is over-heating, the typical bam bam bam, until it settles (in this case temperature is back to normal). The bugging down looks to be as if not enough fuel, carb or fuel lines maybe, vent valve in fuel tank.

Lets hope one of your bearing seals is not leaking.

Is it from inside the ball housing, does it look like its dripping down from the cylinder head gasket, or exhaust gasket?

How does the pipe sound when accelerating, gurgling, clean to top end?
 
Damn... you got some wrench work ahead of you on this one, redeem and push along... je je

And if I recall, isnt this a new truck you just got?

I would definitely get with Dan on this one, this is not user's fault. The pictures clearly show premature failure of the bearing seals. I know its frustrating and can make anyone throw the towel. Each case is unique, I have gone through my fair share of issues with items sold by them. I don't blame it on been a clone RC, this are mass produced engines, and it can happen, which I have seen, even to the legendary Zenoahs (which there is a thread on the fix in othe forums).

As long as you don't lose your cool, don't get disrespectful with Dan, provide pictures as needed, I think you can get a partial refund, or request a engine replacement or a new bottom end kit.
 
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