Stuttering when driving.

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I bought the carb from DDM, a walbro wt1107
in order to use that carb you have to change the manifold, I got it off ebay
I also replaced the reed block with a 4 petal reed block and I got it off e bay too
I don't have the links sorry
Not sure if you can use the stock reed assembly with the different manifold though I think it would need to be spaced out in order for the carb to not interfere with the engine case
 
I bought the carb from DDM, a walbro wt1107
in order to use that carb you have to change the manifold, I got it off ebay
I also replaced the reed block with a 4 petal reed block and I got it off e bay too
I don't have the links sorry
Not sure if you can use the stock reed assembly with the different manifold though I think it would need to be spaced out in order for the carb to not interfere with the engine case
Ok sounds good thanks for the help.
 
Jeez I was just telling the guy how to check for spark the easy way, like 99.9% of hobbyists would do it! lol
don't need to make things any more complicated then they need to be.
I will check out that spark tester thanks for that. I would like a good one to use on my Mopar V8 engines.
The MSD ignitions hurt when you get zapped lol
But it's not the easy way. It's totally incorrect way to diagnose an ignition system in anything, doesn't matter of its a little 2 stroke, or a v12 car engine. The worst part is the proper tool is so cheap it's silly not to use it.
 
That was the first thing I noticed with the Raminator, fuel tank pressure builds up quickly. My fix for this was a quick fuel cap with the flip top that is fully vented. I used the rubber inner gasket from the stock fuel cap with the vented cap. Since I used the rubber seal that has a hole in the center of it I have to remove the cap to refuel. No big deal. It works in prevention of tank pressure. Did not leak as much as I thought it would after a flip onto its backside with a full tank. If you opt for this, do not use the plastic insert. Just the rubber part.

I would also confirm that the fuel line with the fuel filter attached runs to the proper port on the carb. I made the assumption mine was assembled properly but as it turned out, it was backwards. Once the fuel in the tank was below the return line, I could not get the engine to start. Had to swap the fuel lines and after that I had no issues. Just look into the tank to see which line has the fuel filter on it.

As for the choke, I did find one that was different. It worked great and not as cheesy as the stock version. No air leaks as it is completely sealed so no dirt can get in. It is the blue one which is shown along with the stock part in red (bought a secondary engine from Primal to mess with). Had no issues with it moving on me when running the Ram. I tried to see if I could find it again. Bought it through Amazon. I found the old order and they changed the choke to the cheaper version like the red one. Not using it at the moment since I swapped to a TMR engine. I will make use of it again if I get the Grave Digger next year. Not sure why it is more difficult to find that now. Bummer.
 

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